My check engine light is on and its throwing the evap vent control valve code (0903). Will I still pass inspection?

 

No you won't. The part isn't too expensive. Its located under the car on a charcoal box by the rear left driver side tire. I believe the part # is vent control valve 14935-54u05 or 14935-54U06. Should be an easy fix if the bolts aren't completely rusted.

 

How about if I get sneeky and reset the check engine light so this way it reads 0505. Probably still fcuked right?

 

when they go to hook up the OBDII plug to ur car all the sensors will come up as "incomplete" or something to that effect, i tried doing it haha. had the same codes as you too. ehh oh well i bought a sticker and lived with the light.

 

Where did you buy this sticker? Hmm?

 

At my last inspection, they told me with the new NY inspection procedures, that as long as the CEL isn't on, they don't really check emissions; if it's on, it's an automatic failure, regardless of codes. It was the first time at that shop for me, not sure if this is the same all over NY

 

i hope thats the case here....i need to keep my baby on the road and up to date.

 

Actually, they now plug into your OBD II port and run an "I/M Readiness Test" scan of your computer. This looks at all emmissions sensor data or codes. Anything "pending" or tripped and you ar out of luck....................

 

um, if you reset the ecu right when u get there, it shouldnt have time to throw the code. Im talking dot hat ish in the parking lot. And take the bulb out of the bezel.

 

all your sensors read "not ready" when they plug in the tool which is also a failure becuase that means they arent reading correctly, i also took the bulb out too haha. i basically tried every which way to beat the system and that way was to buy a sticker

 

you cannot reset right before inspection the computer has to have time to recycle some say 48hrs to 1 week of driving at least.

 

When the current OBD II standards were set, the EPA had a hand in making sure you couldn't "cheat" the system by a last moment reset or bulb removal...................and the "start cycle" varies with codes, but usually is less than 5 cycles to clear.................

 

or 50 miles of driving or 3 on/off cycles....not a week

 

You could also ask someone you know that does or knows who does emissions check and get it done there. They might go easy on you and let you get away with it lol. Thats what my friend did 5 months ago when he was due. He had a light on and they still passed him because his emissions was fine and they knew each other.

 

Well it failed...how much does the valve run for? And which of those part numbers is it? I searched them both...one came up as "Emission system - Vapor canister - Vacuum control valve" and the other as "Valve Assy Cont"

 

bump...

10char

 

Try re-plugging the connections on the evap, might work.

 

I just had the same problem (I got 0903 shortly after my inspection last november.)

I left it until this november (by then I was also getting another EVAP system malfunction code periodically.)

From a local nissan dealer the vent control valve is ~ $100..

BUT BEWARE!

Before you order/go buy a new vent control valve, quickly get under your car and try to loosen the bolts on the one you have now (they are very easy to get to, this is what it looks like.) There are only two bolts holding it on.


vent control valve is circled

The vent control valve is bolted to the side of the vapor canister (the big black box.) The bolts are threaded into metal clips that are molded inside the plastic of the vapor canister. The problem was that when they get rusty and hard to turn, if they make the metal retaining clip casted inside the plastic slip then you cannot remove the vent control valve (or install a new one for that matter) without destroying the vapor canister, and you will have to replace both (which is what happened to me.)

So I would suggest getting any rust-eating solutions and coating the bolts and letting it soak for awhile before trying to remove to reduce the risk of having to replace the vapor canister (which is also about ~$100)

P.S.

I also first tried tricking them by resetting my ECU and driving around for ~ a week with the CEL off. It was a no-go, their OBDII scan showed what someone else said about a "not ready" state for the EVAP system.

 

Oh yea, I also forgot to mention be careful when ordering the vent control valve
because at some point in '97 they changed styles.

Where the vent control valve attaches to the vapor canister, with the style my car has the VCV has a nipple with a rubber seal that is inserted into the vapor canister, apparently there is also a different style vapor canister/vcv setup (sorry but I don't know the specifics about it.)

For all these reasons I just bought my parts from a local dealer so I could see them before paying for them, so I paid ~ $200, apparently you can find them online (I do not know where, someone said in my thread that I could have got them both for $100 but wasn't able to produce a link, I think he was just mocking me for buying parts from a dealer.)

So be aware of what you are getting.

 

If the shop gave you a sticker and didn't imput your specific vehicle info into the machine the DMV record will show you failed inspection and your vehicle registration will not be renewed, in NY state.

 

I went out today to take off the valve. One screw came out no problem and the other cracked in half. I then tried take the valve off and it was a no go. What could be the problem?

 

can you read?
look at post #18.



Damn you guys are hard-headed. several people are telling you that you can't pass emissions with it, and even hand you the part numbers to fix the problem for good! then you try to do it anyway, Pay to fail the inspection you already knew you would, and now you STILL have to fix the problem and get it reinspected.

wouldn't it have been easier to just replace the failed part in the first place and been done with it?

 

My car was being inspected at the time i posted the thread. What was I suppossed to do. I didnt know I had to replace that part until about an hour before the inspection so I went for it anyway. And considering your allowed to have 2 sensors fail and still pass I figured I would be fine. But anyway....I still need an answer.

 

your answer is still in post #18.

 

Well I see a big IF. There has to be a way to get it out of there.

 

A failed inspection cost $37. The part costs $65 and fixes the problem. With the check engine light on you will always fail! Why wouldn't you just pay a few dollars more and fix it correctly?!?

Before you opened up the rusted screws which everyone who doesnt listen breaks, you need to spray with a rust penetrator to loosen up the bolts and make then easy to remove.

Now you prob f'd up the charcol canister so you are looking at spending $37 for the failed inspection $65 for the EVAP sensor, around $50? for the Charcol canister, and then another $37 to pass the inspection. Plus any tickets you get between now and then....

Next time fix it right and fix it once!

 

I used rust remover and wd-40. I barely put any pressure on the screw and it cracked. Its not like I went at it with brute force. Mistakes happen...

And again...I didnt have any codes until SHORTLY before my inspection. How was I suppossed to get it fixed 10 min before hand?

I think Ive just about had it with this constant flaming. When I was new to the site I found useful information, and within a couple months Ive seen that disapear and found nothing but arguments and rants. Id be better off joining the civic forums.

 

are you serious? you live in New York, you should know how we get around things like that..

 

I had the same problem with my 98 white max, i thought it was my egr vaue, but it was the sensor, i put a bottle of sea-foam in my gas tank and the check light went off, but the repair guy told me, that i still had a bad sensor

 

Ya but getting around the inspection is more expensive than the fix

 

It wasnt meant to be a flame, more of a rant only because I used to do the same thing.

Try taking a shortcut instead of fixing it properly the first time and it always ends up costing more!

 

I think you should test the vent control valve to see if it is working properly first. Also there is more than one down there as well. They are very easy to test but you would need a 12volt battery. There are two connectors on the valve (positive and negative) and just hooked them two the battery and listen if the valve clicks. If it does then it works but if doesn't then bring lube when you go to the dealer. Also there are ways around the check engine light insp, just find the "right" inspector to do it for you $$$. Goodluck.

 

I posted the picture and told you what would happen if the bolts wont come off...

If you cant get the VCV off the charcoal canister, you will have to remove them as a pair and replace them as a pair. Just take the hoses/electrical connector off the VCV and the three bolts that hold the vapor canister on (easy to find) and take it out, replace as one unit the same way it came out....

Yea, it sucks, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

Your option to re-use the charcoal canister would to be remove them as a pair and then drill out the bolt that is stuck. But what if the canister caused the VCV to fail? And you will have to find a way to reattach the new VCV to the canister with broken retaining clips