In "reclocking" the charger I would like to replace the charge pipe to 3". Anyone recommend a place to buy it from? Also, what type of materials should it be made from? And does anyone have the measurements? Thank you!

 

I used 22" when I did mine, but 24" will also work.

www.ATPTurbo.com Or www.Burnsstainless.com

-matt

 

Matt, are you also using the frankencar 3.0" MAF adapter?

 

Ptatohed needs to chime in on this..... He bought all the piping for our aftercooler projects, so he knows where to buy this stuff in aluminum. In fact, we reclocked the blower on his car and went 3" all the way. Oh yeah!!! Can't wait to do mine!!

Aluminum is the best IMO; it will keep the weight down. The silicone couplers are easy to find.

Keep in mind you will need to get a MAF adapter plate. The ones we got are plastic. Anyone know where to get aluminum/metal MAF adapter plates?

 

Frankencar makes a billet aluminum one. I called them to ask about it but they don't seem to like answering the phone.

EDIT: Cattman also makes one. Cool, I guess I will order from them.

 

Im going to take the 2.5" up to the bending shop where I used to work and get a quote for 3".

With the BOV flange

 

I used my MAF adaptor from my PR CAI setup that I took off my car. Ive heard to NOT buy the plastic one. I think it cracked on Iansw and went after him

-matt

 

Shut it.

Not funny.

I almost died.




No reason to reclock without 3" piping really.

You'll also need:
1) A 45 degree silicone 3" coupler (for MAF end of straight pipe) and
2) 2.75" - 3" 90 degree bend for S/C to 3" piping side. - http://stores.channeladvisor.com/ver...2753004-906-RD?

I broke a plastic adapter while revving the engine from the engine bay and the pip flew up and literally hit me in the head....lol.

Got a Frankencar adapater - no more problems.

 

I had one of the plastic ones also and it ended up cracking also.

I ordered and aluminum one from Frankencar and I had no problem at all getting into contact with someone via email. He was very nice and would reply back to my emails the same day I sent them. Frankencar customer service is a night and day difference from before. Shoot chris@frankencar.com and email and he will hook you up.

 

Emailed Cattman. $40 each for an aluminum MAF adapter. Ouch!! Josh found some alumimum ones on ebay for $10 each. Should be here Wednesday.

The plastic MAF adapters are super duper flimsy, and we feel it's only a question of time before they break. They also don't seat too well, (only snug up well where the bolts hold it on to the MAF) and we fear a minute boost leak may be present.

BTW, how much are the Frankencar ones??

 

Be carefull. I bought an MAF adaptor off ebay and it didnt fit. The holes werent even CLOSE to lineing up with the MAF. Really off

-matt

 

I thought $40 was crazy so I went for the cheaper aluminum ebay one and it did not fit. I guess the adaptor is universal and the only way it fits is with 2 screws diagonally but its still not on straight so I ended up getting it from Frankencar for $40 shipped.

 

That's a bummer to hear about the e-bay MAF adaptor not working. I was excited to find a 'deal' for $10 each. Oh well, The Wizard and I will know for sure tomorrow (01-11). If it doesn't work, we'll have to splurge for the Cattman.

But to answer ME's original question about how to construct a 3" intake pipe... This is what The Wizard and I did to my car. Starting from the blower outlet and going downstream to the MAF:

3" rubber elbow with 3"-->2.75" reducer purchased from intakehoses.com.

Next is a 3" BOV adaptor from ebay. You can choose the adaptor of your choice to match your BOV.

Then, where we placed our 12" long water-to-air-aftercooler, you would place a 3" straight pipe.

Next, is a little tricky. We truly need a 60^ bend here but you can only buy 3" piping in 45^ and 90^ (that I know of). So, what we did was use a 45^ pipe. 60-45=15. 15/2 = 7.5^. So we cut the pipe to the length we needed but skewed the cut 7.5^ on each side to split the difference. So there are two slight angle points in our intake but it is not noticable.
Alternatively, you might be able to use a silicone 45^ elbow and hope it can deflect the 15^ you need.


Lastly, we used a lame plastic MAF adaptor from e-bay. But we realize it was a mistake so we ordered an aluminum (as mentioned above).

Here are the silicone couplers you will want to use. We used cheap rubber couplers but will be upgrading to these.

And here are the hose clamps.

Here are a few pics of our project.

Good luck!

 

Nice find on that 90 degree rubber hose. Much cheaper than silicone!

My plan is now: 90 degree rubber bend with the 2.75" adapter, 22" inch length of straight pipe, weld a BOV flange along the piping....

From here, I could either weld on a 45 degree steel bend and use a straight coupler to a MAF adapter, or go with the 45 degree silicone coupler to a MAF adapter.

 

Yes, rubber is much cheaper than silicone. However, the site I listed actually doesn't have too bad of prices on 90^ silicone. $36.
Turbo Hoses dot com wants $80!!!

But yeah, you can't beat $9 for a rubber 90^ elbow. But of course you'll need the $9 reducer insert too.

Eric, PM me after you buy your rubber elbow. You need to make a few cuts to it. You need to cut off all the tangent on one side of the elbow. And you need to notch out the reducer insert to fit on the blower outlet.

Where are you getting 22"? That seems a bit long.

And, like I said above the angle should be 60^, not 45^. Just be aware of that if you are using a 45^ like I did.

Good luck.

- Josh

 

Yup, try to make the bends as big as possible.. ie 60^ rather than 45^. Stillen's crossover tube is a 60^ bend going into the MAF. IMO, the sharper the bend, the more "frictional" losses occur.

 

Well I'm not buying the BOV adapter pipe that you got off ebay. I'm have a flange welded in, so I need a single long pipe going from the 90 degree bend to the bend before the MAF. iansw used a 45 degree and it worked, so I don't think I'll have too much of a problem with that. If you think about it, if you make that straight section of piping a little longer, the angle will get smaller, and if you make the pipe shorter, then the angle is slightly larger.

 

Yes, but 22" still seems a bit long. The BOV adaptor Jim and I used is 6" and the Jackson Racing Air to Water AfterCooler is about 12". So that is a total of 18".

Don't mix up angle with radius. The angle is the angle. It is 60^, period. Lengthening or shortening the pipe length doesn't change the angle. But it does change the radius. The longer the pipe, the tighter your radius.

But with all that said, I'm sure a silicone 45^ coupler will work. A small 7.5^ deflection on either end will give you your 60^.

 

I used 24" pipe and a 45 degree adapter - 13.5PSI of boost....no constriction vs 2.5" piping at all.

 

Ian, so your boost went up by going to a 3" intake? With no other mods at all? What was your boost increase?

Mine went down 1.5PSI (10 to 8.5) but that's because I installed the AWAC at the same time.

 

No - it's the same as it was with 2.5" piping is all I'm saying - even with a 45 degree elbow.

 

Love that AWAC Josh.

 

Does anybody have a 5gen with the 3" inch piping???? I know the piping is alittle different, got any pics.

And guys, how much are you paying these pipes with the installation of the SC kit???? I'am really thinking about putting the car in the shop this week to have it installed!!!

 

Can't you just go the CAI route, and get the 3 inch charge pipe similar to how we 4th genners do it? Piping is like 15 bucks a foot, shipped on atpturbo.com

 

Its less on other places

 

You can't do 2, 3" cross over pipes like the 5th gen has. It just wont fit. You do have the option of doing one 3" crossover and put the MAF in the fender whell. Remember the MAF must be 18" from the blower Inlet

-matt

 

lol, so post the link up knucklehead...i got my 3 inch charge pipe, 2 feet for 36 shipped...and i got it in aluminum

 

The answer is already in post #13 of this thread.

But here you go:
http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/mer...gory_Code=SIT7

 

Good for guys building a kit

LOOOKKK DOWWNNNN !!!!!!!

 

Thanks guys, going to buy the piping this weekend.

 

Is there anything else I'am missing???

Aluminum Intake Tubing 3" OD X 24" Long
Silicone Elbow 3" ID X 90 Degree
Reducing Insert 3" OD to 2.75" ID
Silicone 45 Degree Elbow 3" ID - Gloss Black

 

Yes, a MAF adapter, couplers, and clamps.
What are you going to do about your BOV?

 

That cool, and for the BOV I have a HKS SS with the flange. Should sound real nice.

 

Really bad compressor surge they are saying with the HKS...while cruising. Better to ge the Blitz... you ricer "it should sound nice" lol.

 

Really bad compressor surge they are saying with the HKS...while cruising. Better to ge the Blitz... you ricer "it should sound nice" lol.

 

Really bad compressor surge they are saying with the HKS...while cruising. Better to ge the Blitz... you ricer "it should sound nice" lol.

 

Hey TJ whatz up, I hope you was just joking about that. Question, do you think the HKS flange will fit on the blitz BOV (maybe I’ll buy one)???? And next time pee brain don’t post it three times…LOL

 

The server was taking a dump on itself and multiplying posts earlier. It has been happening in a lot of threads.

 

Yup yup, I just asked around about this also. HKS is too tight, compressor surge while cruising. Greddy Type S is too leaky, you lose a psi or 2 (in theory). The Blitz gives compressor surge at idle. You can modify the Blitz spring and lose 1psi of boost, but it will be a perfect BOV. This is for SC guys. I was upset about the SSQV myself

 

I have the Turboxs and love it.