So i got prices today and almost flipped. Is this job really that expensive. I thought you can buy wheel bearing hub assemblys slap them on and call it a day. It seems thats not the case. Any ideas on what I should do? I got priced 214 for a new hub, seals, bearings, studs and snap rings.. There has to be a way to get this cheaper.

 

You can buy a junkyard hub/spindle/bearing and slap it own - MDeezy picked up one for 50 bucks.. you take a risk on the state of the bearing though...

Was $214 parts only?

I believe a new bearing alone runs about 50 bucks...

 

40 at autozone and ive used them and they come with a warranty and its so expensive becuase you gotta do alot to get to the bearing.i would say take it off yourself buy the bearing and take it to a shop to have them press it in.mind you you have to have something that can take off and put on a bolt to 150 ft.lbs. or torque.if ya cant do that do what mdeezy did

 

for the record the Wheel bearing is a DEALER item only...autozone doesn't carry them anymore. They are around $40 or so from Pinnacle Nissan and the seals are about $13 each..you need two. Then just remove the hub and take it to a machine shop where they can press the old one out and press the new one in for you. Might cost you $40 or so...total of about $106 or so...and some of your time. I have an extra wheel bearing as I ordered two with the intention of doing both sides...but only one was bad....

 

friendo, junk yard 50$, 2 hours of work, and Autozone will press in your bearing if u buying in parts... i did it, u can too....

 

Don't forget front end alignment. Once you disconnect and reconnect the spindles, camber settings will be off. Tack another $75 bucks there or more.

 

You could always check the classifieds. I know fanaticrockford has a spindle/hub available for $60 shipped.

 

shameless plug....

and I think DR-Max is correct, although I'm no expert, but if the tie rod ends are not moved/adjusted how much is the alignment thrown off?

 

I dont think you need an alignment. You are not removing the tie rod ends from the tie rod, just the steering knuckle. There for there is no change to the dimensions of the tie rod.

Also you might want to pick up a new or used hub. Chances are yours has suffered some damage from the bad bearing. Trust me its better to be safe then sorry on the hub. I just had to redo mine cause I tried to be cheap.

 

you will need an alignment unless you mark the spindle. remember that the tie rod only adjusts toe so if the spindle isnt installed to the strut in the exact spot it was pulled from your camber will be fudged.

 

Camber is not adjustable on our cars. Least not buy more than a hair. You have to buy aftermarket camber adjustment kits to do this.

 

This alignment question is argued over and over. True, the tie rods don't move or get disconnected doing this job, but the strut-to-knuckle bolts are. If there is any play in this joint (assembled, not torqued) it will affect both camber and toe settings. Some struts are a tighter fit than others, so on reassembly you can assess whether there this could have caused it to lose alignment.

On my car, I get a visible change in camber and alignment when I move thru the play in that joint. (the holes in the strut are probably 1mm dia larger than the bolts). I'll bet it's a degree difference in both camber and toe - but I have Tokico Blues, not stock struts.

$215 sounds reasonable. About $80 is for the bearing and seals. I would skip the new hub and just have them reuse the old one unless it is damaged.

Dave

 

Im running Tokico Illuminas and I dont see the same thing you do.

 

Couldn't have said it better myself. Even marking things doesn't really put everything exactly back to the way it was before. Did this when I had to change the rack and pinion bellows, had to disconnect the tie rods. When I had my alignment checked, it was still off.

 

interesting discussion.

Logically it would make sense if our alignment is based on movement of the tie rods. Now if this is true then, if the tie rods being disconnected doesnt affect them, then alignment shouldnt be off since everything else isnt adjustable.

If the above being true, as long as your not puttin on new springs, new tie rods, struts, or adjusting the height of your car then, and alignment wouldnt be needed. Or alignment would be off by a "hair" (-Dubbya) which shouldnt cause any concern.

 

LCA Bushings can also effect alignment as well. Think of it this way. Say your bushings are shot and have been for some time. You have gotten an alignment or 2 with the shot bushings. Then you replace the shot bushings with new ones. Its going to change the dynamics of the front end every so slightly. For me it actually helped my alignment. My car was pulling to one side slightly with the shot bushings. As soon as I replaced them with Poly ones my car drove straight again.

 

Dubbya,

I see where you're coming from, but in this case he is tackling the wheel bearings and not the LCA, granted changing the LCA will result in a change in alignment due to the new bushings all around, but doing the wheel bearing had no change in my alignment whatsoever.

 

Correct but I was replying to MDeezy's post.

 

I agree, especially after seeing the condition of my old ball joint versus the new(er) one I put on. I can see how it would affect the alignment.

 

Now question, up to what year will a hub/spindle/bearing will fit my 96 max? I am thinking about going to junkyard to get it since I already went through 2 wheel bearing in one year.

 

any 95-99. I have gone to the junk yard also and bought a full spindle and just replaced what was my current one with a bad wheel bearing. Much quicker and easier, but the risk of getting someone elses old bad wheel bearings.

 

If your bearings aren't lasting 100K miles then your installing them wrong. You must NOT apply any pressure to the ***** themselves. That means pressing the outer racing only into the knuckle and the inner race onto the hub.

I had both mine pressed in by an expensive californian machine shop for $95 - you can do better. As you know bearings cost $40ish.

Make sure you don't get any grit in the bearing on reassembly.

 

What were your symptoms that lead you to determine the bearing issue? My wife's '95 has developed a metal scraping sound that is coming from driver's side. I think its the front wheel since I took off the rear and didin't see anything out of the ordinary.

Bob

 

Here's my deal

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=479796

Turns out the seal just came loose.

Jack the car up and spin the wheel by hand. Then you'll know.

 

The metal scrappin sound that your gettin is probabbly comming when your rotor touches the back rotor shield... I have a question when do you hear that sound.. do u hear it when ur turning right or left or in straigh line... regardless it can be ur rotor ggetting baad so it vibrates and touches the back shield or could be something got behidn ur rotor that touches with ur rotors and shield..

guys i have a question.. i am getting this sound like umm humm and i thought it was my wheels but i changed all of em but the sound didnt go away.. Another thing when i'm at a speed say 50 kum/hr that'z when i notice the sound lound and it tends to fade away as my truing my wheels either right or left.. do u guyz think its my wheel bearing..

 

"The metal scrappin sound that your gettin is probabbly comming when your rotor touches the back rotor shield... I have a question when do you hear that sound.. do u hear it when ur turning right or left or in straigh line... regardless it can be ur rotor ggetting baad so it vibrates and touches the back shield or could be something got behidn ur rotor that touches with ur rotors and shield"..




It seems to be mostly in a straight line. I also notice a small vibration in the steering wheel when I'm driving around 60-70 MPH. Not sure if it's related or not.

Bob

 

Who went through 6 months of old posts to find this thread !

 

Someone with the common sense to search for something.