wtf car turned off while driving???
wtf car turned off while driving???
what the hell i was driving and coming to a stop sign and all of my car just turned off. All the dummy lights came on. What could this be. This could possibly be the worst thing that could ever happen. What if i was on the highway and it turned off. no power steering,power brakes or anything. Does anyone know what could be causing this.
ive had this happen it just stalled at a light in my 97, it can only happen when your slowing down and the idle must just drop too low. I would only start to worry if it keeps doing it.
COuld be the ECTS (engine control temperature sensor) needs replacing. The same thing happened to me several times last year until I replaced the sensor. It only happened to me when I came to a stop. Even though your check engine light hasn't come on, I would check for any codes.
but the idle doesnt just slowly drop. It just SHUTS off. and the dummy lights come on. It doesnt slowly start getting rough it shows no signs of anything wrong. And then poof when u least expect it it goes off. It has happened a few times before. And funny it was all when i was coming to a stop or slowing down. It has never happened on the highway yet.. I should mention that i am automatic.
Alternator. Go to a auto parts store that tests for free. I just fixed all this on my Max. Tell me if this sounds familiar:
When your RPM's drop low, like at idle or coasting down to a stop, your warning lights come one starting with ABS, then air bag, etc...
You battery may also be dead from not getting charged enough from the alternator. Or it could be simple and just be a battery that wont hold charge. Let me know which one it is.
If it's alternator, it'll run you $75 at a bone yard (average) and $170 at a part store, with your old one as a core charge.
-Snomax
When your RPM's drop low, like at idle or coasting down to a stop, your warning lights come one starting with ABS, then air bag, etc...
You battery may also be dead from not getting charged enough from the alternator. Or it could be simple and just be a battery that wont hold charge. Let me know which one it is.
If it's alternator, it'll run you $75 at a bone yard (average) and $170 at a part store, with your old one as a core charge.
-Snomax
when it happens all the lights come on at the same time. The rpms would be fine as i would be slpowing down it would just drop to 0 as the car shuts it self off. Then i have to put it in park and start it back up and it works fine. It doesnt happen often. It mostly stalls in reverse.
lets seee stalling in reverse = every cold day. Stalling in D not often at all. First time its done it in a few months since i got my 791xv installed. It first started right when i got my 791 installed
This is the maintenance item of the month.
Clean out the throttle body and IACV... sounds to me like the IACV isn't able to kick-in fast enough as you come to a stop...
Black Maxima - your problem definitely sounds like a IACV/idle solenoid issue.
Clean out the throttle body and IACV... sounds to me like the IACV isn't able to kick-in fast enough as you come to a stop...
Black Maxima - your problem definitely sounds like a IACV/idle solenoid issue.
Originally Posted by njmodi
This is the maintenance item of the month.
Clean out the throttle body and IACV... sounds to me like the IACV isn't able to kick-in fast enough as you come to a stop...
Black Maxima - your problem definitely sounds like a IACV/idle solenoid issue.
Clean out the throttle body and IACV... sounds to me like the IACV isn't able to kick-in fast enough as you come to a stop...
Black Maxima - your problem definitely sounds like a IACV/idle solenoid issue.
Get it checked out. My car had never stalled, ever (it's automatic, heh), until I had my IAC valve blocked off (00VI related). Now the rpms drop real low when the car is cold, and it will stall if I don't give it a little gas for the first few seconds just after starting it.
I don't know if your car was cold or not when it stalled on you, but either way, cleaning it sounds like a good idea.
Originally Posted by DcMaN
got the in wall heater on in the garage im goin in their as soon as it gets warm 
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I do have a CEL on. I have the code 02 10:
I have replaced the oxygen sensor, but the CEL keeps comming back. Let me look into the MAF and IACV. Whatever those parts do. HAHA
0210
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0210 points to a problem with the fuel injection system. When the engine management system is running in closed-loop mode the Engine Control Unit (the computer) makes continual adjustments to maintain the air-fuel ratio near the ideal point. To achieve this it relies on signals from many sensors including the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Oxygen Sensors.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM finds that it cannot properly control the air/fuel mixture, and the mixture is too lean (too much air). DTC 0210 indicates this problem exists on the left bank (the front bank, cylinders 2, 4, and 6). Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Front Oxygen Sensor
- one or more fuel injectors on the front bank
- exhaust gas leaks
- incorrect fuel pressure
- lack of fuel
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0210 points to a problem with the fuel injection system. When the engine management system is running in closed-loop mode the Engine Control Unit (the computer) makes continual adjustments to maintain the air-fuel ratio near the ideal point. To achieve this it relies on signals from many sensors including the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Oxygen Sensors.
This malfunction is detected when the ECM finds that it cannot properly control the air/fuel mixture, and the mixture is too lean (too much air). DTC 0210 indicates this problem exists on the left bank (the front bank, cylinders 2, 4, and 6). Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Front Oxygen Sensor
- one or more fuel injectors on the front bank
- exhaust gas leaks
- incorrect fuel pressure
- lack of fuel
- Mass Air Flow Sensor
I remember the guy telling me that the problem was diagnosed as having a rip in one of the wires in the wiring harness and ithink i found it, and they are connected by using butt connectors tsk tsk tsk shame on whoever "fixed it" . Do these look like nissan would use these but connectors ?
no probs.
Originally Posted by DcMaN
I remember the guy telling me that the problem was diagnosed as having a rip in one of the wires in the wiring harness and ithink i found it, and they are connected by using butt connectors tsk tsk tsk shame on whoever "fixed it" . Do these look like nissan would use these but connectors ?
Wait a minute - so this problem existed before?
What part of the harness is that? Those connections look weak
when i bought it the guy didnt say anything. But then i called him when the problem started to occur and he said its most likely something with the harness because he had a nissan tech look at it.. and repair it but in any case i got the iacv off now what do i do ? That part of the harness is at the very end (closest to the firewall on the passenger side. I wiggled the wires while the car was on to see if it would stall and it wouldnt so it se ems they have a decent enough connection.
Just clean it all out the best you can - especially the hat and the plunger under it.. just let things soak.. be careful not to overtighten the hat screws - the IACV forging is all aluminum and you'll strip the threads easily... (been there, done that)...
. Look how clean it is and i didnt even clean it! 
this is the tsb he told me about which is why the job was performed
http://www.jatan.net/tsbs/056841.pdf
I wiggled them and they didnt seem to make the car stall.
http://www.jatan.net/tsbs/056841.pdf
I wiggled them and they didnt seem to make the car stall.