After installing my CAI, (Injen style, except I added an elbow pushing the filter away from the rad) I lost low end power, however I love smoothness gained in the mid range. How do I go about replacing that lost low end power? Whether it be with mods or some maintenance things..I have no other mods to the car. Keep in mind I just recently did my plugs and tranny fluid and obviously oil. I have new coils and MAF sensor.

Thanks.

 

I just did the 17 degree timing advance yesterday morning and it definitely gave me some low end power back that was lost by the intake and y pipe. I'd def suggest that...plus it gives you better gas mileage too.

 

on timing advance

grounding kit might also help, especially if you are auto.

If you haven't cleaned your throttle body while while installing your intake it might be a good idea to do it now.

 

a few things:

1. Injens are notorious for the most low=end loss among all of the intakes out there, from nearly everything I've read. I'm not sure of the "why" but Injens just lose low end, and that's the way it is.

2. Kruppa, how the heck did you lose low end with the y-pipe??? My low end was VERY strong after the y-pipe install! Also, sorry to tell ya that the gas savings will be un-noticeable with the timing advance...maybe you get a few extra miles (single digit) but nothing drastic.

3. I've used several intakes: Frankencar (short-ram), Franken with an extension elboy (more like Injen), GAB, GAB with extension, stock airbox, and now the Place Racing.

The GAB maintains low end, but doesn't really gain much high/middle
The Franken/Franken-elbow - these setups lost alot of low end, and gained some high end
The Place Racing using the STOCK midpipe (the accordian-looking part) with the PR downpipe - low end is good (maybe better than stock) and mid-high is excellent. This is the only setup I will use. Period.

 

my 2kse wit 69k pings like a mf.... i want to advance timing but that is gonna make worse... autotragic.

 

how do u do a timing advance?

 

where can you go and get your timing advanced and how much does it cost?

 

you will not get the low end back with an injen. if you want, you can use the injen mid-pipe, and bolt the filter to it. use it like a short-ram intake. or sell the injen on ebay, and get a berk or frankencar. most of .org members have one of these intakes, and they seem to perform the best.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=123

 

Berk/Frankencar also lose some low end.

There are only three ways not to lose low end:
1. Stock air box
2. GAB/OSCAI
3. the setup I have

 

Butt-dyno proven?

 

I know that, thats why I mentioned that I'm trying to regain that lost hp after my install. Guys keep in mind my intake is Injen style, I've added piping to make the filter sit right by the fog light housing. I wonder if you cut the metal of the foglight housing and get the filter in there how it would run? But right now my filter is not behind the rad anymore.

Secondly I love the setup and will be keeping it due to the gains felt in the mid range. Plus I only paid $100cdn for my set up

 

What the hell did you do to your max?

 

kruppa where did you get your timing advanced?

 

Most dealerships will advance timing. Costs $80 or so.

On the 3.5 Injens, remove the downpipe and put the filter directly on the MAF and you'll get the low-end back. For the 3.slows: you're SOL. You have to use the downpipe because you have a sensor there.

Pic of mine (camera phone so don't knock the quality!)

 

GBAUER, I don't see how you will have proper cool air in that location. Would that not pick up rad air blowing back while driving? And on the 3.0 I don't think it is a sensor,the backing is just a plug, it just plugs into the stock intake to clean up the engine. I could be wrong though.

You guys should take my advice if you got the Injen though, believe my, add a small elbow pipe to push the filter away from the rad, you will notice a slight difference and how cool the intake piping is compared to the rest of the engine bay.

 

Actually, it really doesn't make a darn bit of difference unless you're looking for 1/100th of a second in the quarter mile. The difference is minimal. You get more bang out of greater flow than a 2-3 degree temperature differential.

 

So how is your oil burning issue?

 

Still burning. But, it burns with more power than you!

 

So for 02-03 maximas it's 20 degree timing advance not 17, right? And is it prefered to be done by some mechanic then by me for more acuracy, or what???

 

17 degrees. 20 is too high. It can only be done with a Consult II tool at a nissan dealership. It is an ECU program change, not a manual change.

 

The reason you're loosing low-end is because of the loss of the stock resonator. PR CAI w/stock resonator > * aftermarket intake.

 

Here's an idea I plan to persue. I will be cutting out a square section of the lower plastic cover located under the bumper cover. I'll mount a brake duct from the local speed shop ( Lane Automotive in Watervliet MI ) on a piece of 1/8 black ABS and rivet + silicone it into place on the lower panel. I'll run some flex hose from the brake duct up to the filter on my WAI ( Weapon R )

It will be too far of a run for significant water to make it's way up there, but it should provide some cold air while moving, along with lots of dirt and bugs of course.

Also considered fabricating an enclosure for the WAI filter and connecting the hose to the enclosure to create a ram air setup.

Any thoughts or opinoins on this idea?

ABS is very easy to work with and can be glued securely with super glue ( Cryoacrylate ) type glues. It cuts like butter with a table saw. Make template pieces out of cardboard and transfer to ABS sheet.

 

WE HAVE A WINNER!!!!! DING DING DING

 

hey, Fort Lee!!! I live in Edgewater, off River Road .

For local timing advance, going to Star Nissan in Queens, Hogan (nismostar) charges $20.

 

Fixed..

404 VQ35DE engine tear down not found.

 

could any one explain me why stock resonator helps keep low end torque? I've been trying to figure it out for a long time but I still can't get it.
In theory there are two rules:

1- more air -> more high end power (given enough fuel can be provided)

2 - the fester the airflow the higher your low end torque.

Stock resonator, however, slows the whole thing down.

 

Helmholtz type resonator > *

 

a little more details please

 

The way I think of it in my head, as ghetto as it is, is that think of sucking air from a straw, very easy right? Now suck air through a bottle with a small hole in the bottom, it takes a lot more strength to do it. So with an engine, it'll need more grunt to suck in the air henc emore toruqe, /ghetto explanation that is 0% scientific.

 

...Physics book...USAF/AFRL website.

 

I know what's a resonator...

Resonator decreases the amplitude of a sound wave and at the same time slows down the airflow. What I don't understand is how the hell it increases torque.

 

Helmholtz + = + How stuff works.

 

damn, stop posting this ****! Just link me to the right article...



Edit: do you even know that you are talking about?

 

haha... yea that's correct, but why exactly does making the engine starve results in higher torque numbers?

I don't think it depends directly on how easy it is to suck in the air. It's probably some indirect relationship, and it just happens to be true in most cases.

 

I know for a fact that more backpressure does not equal more torque but I cant remember the explanation of why. I know it has more to do with the velocity of exhaust gasses through the exhaust system.

 

So what you're saying is the Helmholtz resonance inside the pipe is such that it helps ram more air into the engine at lower engine speeds, increasing low end torque?

Simply adding the 6" piece of accordion tubing will create this effect?

Sounds like BS to me. The intake pipe is not a closed chamber. It's simply a tube with an air filter on the end of it.

The intake manifold runners in the intake are already tuned for this effect. The intake air charges bounce off the intake valves when they are closed, head back up the intake and resonate inside the intake manifold. Longer runners promote more low and midrange. Shorter runners increase upper end power. I'm sure all of us here are familiar with the dual stage intake runner setup that takes advantage of this effect.

My opinion is the motor needs unrestricted airflow for max power - period.

I've never seen a motor on a dyno with a rubber accordian pipe on it for any specific HP adding effect either.

 

If you understood, then you would understand why.

I have dynos that prove the straight pipe(resonator removed and a striaght pipe in place) does some strange items( non-linear power delviery) when using a midpipe. Also, it's loud, obnoxious, and doesn't even add 1whp.

I stick by my stock resonator on th dyno or wherever.

 

is it also true you will lose power if you maf is dirty?

whats needed to clean the MAF? any kind of help helps.

 

Nice thread hijack..