The one at www.motorvate.ca does not mention thermostat removal.

So I get air trapped in the cooling system, cos my heater cycles from hot to luke warm, and air bubbles in the coolant reservoir bottle

It does however mention how to release coolant from the heater core, and NOT TO CHANGE COOLANT WHEN CAR IS HOT, MAY WARP HEADS.

On the other hand, Haynes manual does not mention this, but they do say to take out the thermostat from the back of the housing, put the housing back and flush the system, by removing the top hose (to let water out), and put a garden hose in at the top inlet.

Do this with the car running or off ????

I don't want to warp my heads or block, or blow my water pump !!!!

PLEASE ADVISE

 

This advice of DIY flushing is bad advice IMO. Any source that recommends puttin tap water into the system is questionable at best. Use distilled water for your mix. Flushing isn't a big deal unless you find massive amounts of gunk in the coolant.

To fully drain the block, you need to drop the y-pipe and remove the front and rear engine block drain plugs. That's a pretty good amount of work, and I've never done it.

My procedure is simple: I drain just the radiator (which is still several quarts), and refill. Drive it at least long enough to flow thru the block, and drain it again (let the block cool first). Refill. By this point you have most of the old coolant out, and the concentrations of 'bad' chemicals in the coolant are way down.

I don't know why you're getting air the system. I've found that draining and filling the radiator is a very clean process.

Dave

 

My procedure is simpler. I take the car to a radiator shop and pay cash under the table and walk out knowing the job is done properly. The last time I paid Cdn$40.

It's not worth my aggravation and I couldn't be bothered in dealing with the old antifreeze.

Just my $0.02.

Obviously this doesn't help you now, but consider getting it done at a rad shop for what it's worth next time!

 

No need to remove the stat.
Flush with the car COLD, engine OFF.
Disconnect the bottom hose from the rad and dump the whole lot. You need to do this over a drain: coolant with antifreeze is attractive to animals and lethal to them.
Then put a hose in the top of the rad and flush until the water flows clean.
If you want to be fanatical about it you could buy a kit, I have used Holt's Speedflush with good results, it has two different chemical treatments.
Flushing and cleaning properly may show up problems in your radiator that you didn't expect.

 

Getting air in the system probably, cos I had water pump and thermostat replaced recently.

A friend of mine has a 95 MAX, he does his own coolant changes.

He also has air bubbles in his coolant reservoir.

What are we doing wrong, and how do we bleed air out of the system ???

I do my coolant change just like Dave described, but how do I get rid of the air ????

ANYONE, is this a commom problem ????

Does heater cycle from hot to luke warm and back to hot ?

PLEASE HELP !!!

 

Clive, that's what I normally do, but since thermostat is closed, aren't we just replacing coolant up to the stat.

I think the reason Haynes and Chilton's say to take stat out is so coolant can flow freely.

BUT, I don't know whether doing this would harm heads, water pump, gauge jumps all the way to MAX, or cause overheating, or other MAJOR PROBLEM.

 

http://f.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=278600

 

Only difference I do it with the car running (after 1st draining/disconnect bottom hose)and heater on and wide open. It takes about 20 min. of constant water running, but it works(for me). I do it twice a year spring/fall.

 

amen to that brother. i paid 40.00 to get mine done and was done at a rad shop by a pro. plus, i did'nt have to throw out old anti-freeze.

 

That sounds like a drain and fill, not the same as a flush.

 

Drain the coolant from the plug on the radiator turn your heat to high, refill with a 50/50 or 60/40 mixture (your choice) start your engine turn on the heater and the air should work its way out. As your coolant goes down pour in fluid and once it stops going down your air is gone. Should take no more than ten minutes.

 

wrong, this guy's done a bunch of cars for me and he only does radiators, period. takes him 2 hours to do, and i've watched him every time. i get it done cheap because i give him return buisness. just flushing the rad is a waste of time and ineffective towards protecting the headgaskets because your leaving a majority of the old anti-freeze in the block. flush the whole system, always and every 30,000 miles.

 

FSM people... its shows clearly under maintinance section...

BUT WAIT HOMER we dont have FSM...

LOOK ON MY SIG.... = ) ... and if u have diff year max its okay still same procedure.