Question On changing the pads. NOT THE ROTORS.
1.
Do you need to use a Brake wash cleaner first off.?
2.
DO YOU use the old shims from the old brakes or do the new pads have them? mine are toast?
3.
The anti rattle springs do you need them or can i go without. mine are not on . they must of not put them on when they check the brakes a while ago. would i need to get them or is it fine TO GO without.

TOOLS USING ARE. RACH SET, RUBBER MALLET ,SCREW DRIVERS, C CLAMP.
DOING THEM THIS weekend THANKS AGAIN.
just trying to get all the help before i start.

Thanks..also the
(anti rattle springs) are brocken or rotted. DO I NEED THEM OR CAN I GO WITHOUT. my friend purchased duragold pads from autozone ceramic. We are not touching the rotors. The Dura Gold come with the shims on them. thanks

 

very simple task to do just the pads. jack up car, take off wheel, unbolt one guide pin and loosen the other, flip up caliper, remove old pads, open brake fluid resevoir cap, press in caliper piston, put in new pads, flip down caliper, install guide pins, install wheels.

the back brakes and slightly different. instead of a c-clamp, you'll need to twist the piston in. they sell a special tools or you can use a needle nose plier. make sure the notch lines up with the nub on the pad when you re-install. and be sure to release the hand brakes when doing the back.

i doubt you'll need the mallet or screw drivers...most new pads have shims built in, i don't have the springs myself but it doesn't seem to be a problem.

PS, is your keyboard broken? why do you seemingly cap random words.

 

You may want to invest in a manual...
You should be able to reuse shims but OE may include them... I would personally go for some good performance pads though.

Use the first part of this page to give you an idea of the work involved:
http://instructional1.calstatela.edu...n%20Maxima.htm

http://webpages.charter.net/chunger/Rearbrakes.htm

 

Get the brake cleaner and have a catch pan. It will dry quickly, but it's nasty stuff that will eat blacktop. You don't strictly need it, since pads aren't even asbestos anymore, but it's a very good idea and makes the job much more tolerable. Plus you can keep the rest of the can for use as a general parts cleaning solvent. (It's almost interchangeable with carb cleaner).

Add heavy gloves to your list. You'll be safer and faster.

I recommend buying a set of good (not key value) OEM pads. True performance pads tend to be either noisy, hard on rotors, dusty, or dangerous when cool (which is almost 100% of the time on the street).

Buy the hardware kit (springs and shims) if your existing shims are rusted/peeling/blistering. If this car was in Mass, then expect them to be corroding. Since you're also missing the springs, just get the kit and install them, then you won't need to worry about their condition for another 100k.

David

 

Some brakes come with shims, others don't. If you don't have the hardware, it's usually pretty cheap to get it.

I guess there are oppossing opinions on whether or not to have the rotors surfaced. I am a firm believer in it. Since I change my own brakes and don't have access to a lathe, I wind up changing my rotors each time.

My last set of pads had shims bonded on the back when I bought them. My current set came with no shims. I'm going without them at the moment but I would prefer to have them. My brakes don't make noise because I use a lot of Disc Brake Quiet which is an aerosol spray that goes on the back of the pads. I highly recommend it.

 

I have always heard that you are supposed to resurface the rotors when you change brake pads. This should allow the rotors to mate to the new pads better.

Last time I changed my brake pads, I didn't reinstall my old shims and I think this is causing my brakes to squeel.

 

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If they are the backs, you should try to track down the tool to retract the piston. I tried needle nose, and they turned and turned and turned...but never went in. I finally bought the tool and it worked fine. It's only about $10, if you can find it.

 

I borrowed a tool from my local Kragen to take care of the rear pistons. They charge you something like $110 and credit it all back to you when you bring the tool back. Even with the tool, it was pretty difficult for me.

 

110 to rent when u can buy it for less then 10 bucks?

 

What about this doesn't make sense? The average car needs the rear pads replaced once in the life of the car.

Dave

 

if you have siezed calipper the pads are gone for few days

 

Harbor Freight has a great tool set for rear calipers for about $40. I picked one up yesterday.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

 

OK then, you borrow the tool twice. You still save $10.

Dave

 

Thanks did it. Maximus 96 post was as it was. The only thing was maybe get the brake cleaner spray these were old and tough to get out.also get a C clamp. The problem i had was the anti rattle springs were broken. so had to replace with out, Is this alright to do? thanks

 

Don't even try the backs with the needle nose pliers. I had the tool and it was freakin almost impossible to turn it back in, im not a small dude either. It's an easy job besides the rear calipers

 

I think it's easier to spread the front calipers right after u remove the wheel, and before you take anything else off. Just wedge a flad screwdriver between the piston and the pad.

For the rears, it's a lot easier to turn the piston if you unscrew/uncap the brake fluid reservoir. Also, you should hold the plier "in-line" with your forearm, not perpendicular. That allows full usage of your pronators (who works those muscles out anyways?)

Jae

 

How to break in brakes http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

How to Change Front Brakes http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300