Suspension + OEM Components
Suspension + OEM Components
I've posted this on the 5th gen section also, but it being invaded by the newbies, this is as good as it gets.
I recently acquired Toser Coilovers from another member and having no experience with disassembling suspensions on a Maxima, I'm in a bit of a pickle. I've read various suspension threads and no specific data for what I want have been found. So ANY help is appreciated.

Looking at the picture from the FSM, can #1 (Strut Mount Spacer) and #2 (Strut Mount Insulator) be removed without complete disassembly of the strut itself? It seems like I only need to re-use the spacer, but I'm not entirely sure.
Anyone who've ordered coilover units that re-used oem components, are those the only two components re-used?
Another question is ride height, it's a subjective issue, but I'd like to know what is the ideal lowered ride height without compromising handling and longevity of suspension components? I plan to lower it front/rear with a measurement of 26" ground-to-wheel arch measure. For a daily driven car, is this considered a "conservative" lowering?
I recently acquired Toser Coilovers from another member and having no experience with disassembling suspensions on a Maxima, I'm in a bit of a pickle. I've read various suspension threads and no specific data for what I want have been found. So ANY help is appreciated.

Looking at the picture from the FSM, can #1 (Strut Mount Spacer) and #2 (Strut Mount Insulator) be removed without complete disassembly of the strut itself? It seems like I only need to re-use the spacer, but I'm not entirely sure.
Anyone who've ordered coilover units that re-used oem components, are those the only two components re-used?
Another question is ride height, it's a subjective issue, but I'd like to know what is the ideal lowered ride height without compromising handling and longevity of suspension components? I plan to lower it front/rear with a measurement of 26" ground-to-wheel arch measure. For a daily driven car, is this considered a "conservative" lowering?
i believe toser coilovers have everything included...you dont reuse anything from the stock...correct me if i am wrong...
26 inches is a good drop...it will keep the ride very comfortable and allow you to handle well....i'm at 25.75...and i love it...i use to be slammed 24.5 and it was overkill...but looked hot as heck....i think the 25.5-26 range is the BEST for handling, reliability, comfort...
26 inches is a good drop...it will keep the ride very comfortable and allow you to handle well....i'm at 25.75...and i love it...i use to be slammed 24.5 and it was overkill...but looked hot as heck....i think the 25.5-26 range is the BEST for handling, reliability, comfort...
Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
Riiight...26 inches??? I think you mean another unit of measure....like feet or miles or something, meter or kilometer maybe?
oh I forgot my favorite...a smoot
oh I forgot my favorite...a smoot
Steven88: the Toser I acquired didn't have all of the things included since it was already used (4000mi).
Originally Posted by NisMoN00B
Per Nissan FSM, Maximas equipped with 225/50/17 must have wheel arch height in the front (Hf) at 27.99 in or 711mm, rear (Hr) at 27.32 in or 694mm. I want to lower it to have 26" Hf/Hr all around. I'm also planning to upgrade to larger size wheels and prevent the dreaded "gap."
Steven88: the Toser I acquired didn't have all of the things included since it was already used (4000mi).
Steven88: the Toser I acquired didn't have all of the things included since it was already used (4000mi).
hmm, it looks like it comes with its own equipment?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=461186
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=461186
Originally Posted by NisMoN00B
Looking at the picture from the FSM, can #1 (Strut Mount Spacer) and #2 (Strut Mount Insulator) be removed without complete disassembly of the strut itself? It seems like I only need to re-use the spacer, but I'm not entirely sure.
You have to re-use everything from #1-#4 if the front coilovers do not come with the top hat already.
When you separate the top nut, the whole assembly comes apart in that order. #3 is required because it goes through the strut towers (3 threaded bolts pointing upwards). #4 is the strut bearing and the entire assembly rotates this plastic piece during turning. #2 keeps everything sandwiched, and #1 is just a flimsy paper gasket, not absolutely necessary if you can cut a proper replacement
When you separate the top nut, the whole assembly comes apart in that order. #3 is required because it goes through the strut towers (3 threaded bolts pointing upwards). #4 is the strut bearing and the entire assembly rotates this plastic piece during turning. #2 keeps everything sandwiched, and #1 is just a flimsy paper gasket, not absolutely necessary if you can cut a proper replacement
Originally Posted by NisMoN00B
Per Nissan FSM, Maximas equipped with 225/50/17 must have wheel arch height in the front (Hf) at 27.99 in or 711mm, rear (Hr) at 27.32 in or 694mm. I want to lower it to have 26" Hf/Hr all around. I'm also planning to upgrade to larger size wheels and prevent the dreaded "gap."
Steven88: the Toser I acquired didn't have all of the things included since it was already used (4000mi).
Steven88: the Toser I acquired didn't have all of the things included since it was already used (4000mi).
if that is what you have in the picture...then only the gasket has to be transferred over...heck, i even heard u can just slap it on like that and go...people say that red gasket doesnt do ****
Another thing of concern from looking at your picture:
1. how does the front suspension pivot? Since the Toser's have their own strut mount assembly, the fronts look fixed whereas on a stock or camber plate type the coilover can move at an angle in relation to the suspension arm angle
2. The coil distance on the front springs. The coils are so close together already with the coilovers OFF the car. Under the weight compression of the vehicle those coils must be even closer, especially with the Maxima being front heavy. Meaning that they probably hinder full suspension travel during vertical movement of the car. I'd recommend purchasing or sourcing different coilover springs or loosening the springs for some slack to offset any preload
Picture for reference:
1. how does the front suspension pivot? Since the Toser's have their own strut mount assembly, the fronts look fixed whereas on a stock or camber plate type the coilover can move at an angle in relation to the suspension arm angle
2. The coil distance on the front springs. The coils are so close together already with the coilovers OFF the car. Under the weight compression of the vehicle those coils must be even closer, especially with the Maxima being front heavy. Meaning that they probably hinder full suspension travel during vertical movement of the car. I'd recommend purchasing or sourcing different coilover springs or loosening the springs for some slack to offset any preload
Picture for reference:
UPDATE: I've installed the coilovers and I didn't re-use the red paper spacer thing like I asked. Both front shocks were leaking oil when I removed them. Fronts fairly went well but it was a pain to reach the rear strut bolts...had to pay 5 bucks to each of my brothers to have them put the nuts on. As it stands, the rear is at 26" and the front at 26-3/8." Had to use some zip ties temporarily to hold the ABS sensor and brake line until I can fabricate a bracket similar to the OEM.
One problem I've noticed is that the car seem to have developed an annoying repetitive clicking noise at low speeds and only happens when turning left. It seems like the CV Axle needs to be replaced from the threads I've read. It has probably been a problem before, but only reared its ugly head now. I swear, I replace one thing, another replaces it..
Larrio : The front assemblies seem to be fixed. I saw no pivot point (at least none that I noticed)
. I took your advice and released the spring preloads, they did decompress almost 1/2" from their position.
One problem I've noticed is that the car seem to have developed an annoying repetitive clicking noise at low speeds and only happens when turning left. It seems like the CV Axle needs to be replaced from the threads I've read. It has probably been a problem before, but only reared its ugly head now. I swear, I replace one thing, another replaces it..
Larrio : The front assemblies seem to be fixed. I saw no pivot point (at least none that I noticed)
. I took your advice and released the spring preloads, they did decompress almost 1/2" from their position.
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