So what's the deal with MAF replacement under warranty?
So what's the deal with MAF replacement under warranty?
My MAF died today. Thanks to this wonderful forum, I was able to figure out what happened and limp the car home by unplugging the MAF.
http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/.../NTB03-023.htm
The car has 52,000 miles so it's still under the powertrain warranty, but I think the MAF probably isn't part of that. Can I use this TSB to get it replaced for free? If not I guess I'll go the $89 part route and assemble a franken-MAF.
http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/.../NTB03-023.htm
The car has 52,000 miles so it's still under the powertrain warranty, but I think the MAF probably isn't part of that. Can I use this TSB to get it replaced for free? If not I guess I'll go the $89 part route and assemble a franken-MAF.
Originally Posted by alpinestars™
If you want to drive around with a CEL get the 89.00 one. Good Luck.
Why would you want to do that when you can simply do it right the first time?
DIY! Buy the $89 MAF, swap the IAT sensor from your current MAF sensor (search forum - several threads on the swap), reinstall MAF, reset ECU and drive.
I did this 15,000 miles ago and still NO CEL...
...
Originally Posted by alpinestars™
If you want to drive around with a CEL get the 89.00 one.
ok now i'm confused.. i just tried to get a new mass air flow sensor. well i kept the old one, just unsrewed the actual sensor itself, put the new one in and the light came on. So when my buddy checked it, he said the code was saying there is no temperature sensor. So i noticed there was no resistor. i took it back thinking that maybe i just got one without it, so i got another one and same thing.. the new ones are not supposed to have it, and the dealer dude said he just needs to reprogram it to read without the resistor. then it should work fine. Well i just put my old one back and it ran the same either way. so i dont know if that means mine was still good? or what. So i just took the new one back and got my money back.
so pretty much if i got the new one, and just put the resistor, the car should work without the light coming back on right?
so pretty much if i got the new one, and just put the resistor, the car should work without the light coming back on right?
Originally Posted by MidN1te
ok now i'm confused.. i just tried to get a new mass air flow sensor. well i kept the old one, just unsrewed the actual sensor itself, put the new one in and the light came on. So when my buddy checked it, he said the code was saying there is no temperature sensor. So i noticed there was no resistor. i took it back thinking that maybe i just got one without it, so i got another one and same thing.. the new ones are not supposed to have it, and the dealer dude said he just needs to reprogram it to read without the resistor. then it should work fine. Well i just put my old one back and it ran the same either way. so i dont know if that means mine was still good? or what. So i just took the new one back and got my money back.
so pretty much if i got the new one, and just put the resistor, the car should work without the light coming back on right?
so pretty much if i got the new one, and just put the resistor, the car should work without the light coming back on right?
The 2001 MAFs that cost $90 (part number ending in 2Y001) do not have the IAT thermistor, while the 2002-2003 MAFs that cost $400 (part numbers ending in AM600 and 6N201), have the IAT thermistor.
If you have a 2002-2003 and want to use the 2Y001 MAF, you need to transfer the IAT from your original AM600 or 6N201 MAF so that you will not get the CEL for the IAT.
More details in the Stickies:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=155
Originally Posted by MidN1te
So.. Thats it.. hmm.. cuz when i did the swap.. i didnt feel the difference...
so i was wondering if i should go and get the new one again and just swap the resistor yeah?
will i feel a difference then?
so i was wondering if i should go and get the new one again and just swap the resistor yeah?
will i feel a difference then?
What was the sign that your MAF went bad? How'd you know?
Had this limp mode crap occur to me a while back and it was a malfunctioning throttle position switch (not sensor). Stated my throttle pedal postioner was malfuntioning. I reset the ECU and it hasnt done this again in 15k either. Dealer I spoke to afterwards said it must have been a fluke and if it happens again to bring in for diagnostics. Hasnt happened again so...
welp.. my car isnt throwing any codes.. i just heard that some people say to try to do it cuz i might feel a difference.. so i did, and it felt better to have my old one than the new one. when i put the new one on, it just threw the code for not having the temp sensor. which is the resistor. so when i put back my old one, it felt better and no cel. so i guess mine was just fine.
Originally Posted by nismopc
Possible that your in limp mode for other reasons? Did you check the codes or just unplug the MAF and drive home? Could be a number of other reasons for this. Get your codes pulled either manually through self or got to parts store and have them pull the codes for free.
What was the sign that your MAF went bad? How'd you know?
Had this limp mode crap occur to me a while back and it was a malfunctioning throttle position switch (not sensor). Stated my throttle pedal postioner was malfuntioning. I reset the ECU and it hasnt done this again in 15k either. Dealer I spoke to afterwards said it must have been a fluke and if it happens again to bring in for diagnostics. Hasnt happened again so...
What was the sign that your MAF went bad? How'd you know?
Had this limp mode crap occur to me a while back and it was a malfunctioning throttle position switch (not sensor). Stated my throttle pedal postioner was malfuntioning. I reset the ECU and it hasnt done this again in 15k either. Dealer I spoke to afterwards said it must have been a fluke and if it happens again to bring in for diagnostics. Hasnt happened again so...
I just got back from the Nissan dealer with the 2k1 MAF...guess it's probably worthwhile to get the codes pulled at autozone before I replace the part though.
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