Got bad wheel bearing...Is this easy to fix?
Got bad wheel bearing...Is this easy to fix?
Alright so I just replace my axle thinking that was the cause of the noise and well the noise was still there. So I have concluded it down to my wheel bearing. Swoosh type noise going straight humming when turning. Which is a bad wheel bearing. I jacked up the car and the wheel has slight play up and down.
So my question is where can I get the bearings and whatever else is needed? Can anyone tell me what necessary? Where is the cheapest place?
Also is this easy to do? I know you need a press or just make custom tools like motorvate did. Everything as far as getting the bearings out is easy. I think I can rig something up to pull the bearings out.
Is it possible to put the bearings in and then tighten the axle nut to press the bearings in? Probably sounds stupid but trying to save a few bucks.
I called and got quoted $280 for the repair. I know parts are around like $60. Just has trans diff bearings replaced and put a new axle. So I have dropped close to $500 so far and really dont wanna dish out another $300 for something that is easier then dropping the trans.
So my question is where can I get the bearings and whatever else is needed? Can anyone tell me what necessary? Where is the cheapest place?
Also is this easy to do? I know you need a press or just make custom tools like motorvate did. Everything as far as getting the bearings out is easy. I think I can rig something up to pull the bearings out.
Is it possible to put the bearings in and then tighten the axle nut to press the bearings in? Probably sounds stupid but trying to save a few bucks.
I called and got quoted $280 for the repair. I know parts are around like $60. Just has trans diff bearings replaced and put a new axle. So I have dropped close to $500 so far and really dont wanna dish out another $300 for something that is easier then dropping the trans.
lift the car up.. grap the wheel with both hads shake it left and right.. as well as up and down.. if ther is play its the bearing..
if u wanna replace it i suggest remove tehh bearing urself.. which is simple.. then take the knuckle to midas or someting to get the new one pressed in..
if u wanna replace it i suggest remove tehh bearing urself.. which is simple.. then take the knuckle to midas or someting to get the new one pressed in..
Originally Posted by f550maranello2
lift the car up.. grap the wheel with both hads shake it left and right.. as well as up and down.. if ther is play its the bearing..
if u wanna replace it i suggest remove tehh bearing urself.. which is simple.. then take the knuckle to midas or someting to get the new one pressed in..
if u wanna replace it i suggest remove tehh bearing urself.. which is simple.. then take the knuckle to midas or someting to get the new one pressed in..
I concluded I had a bad wheel bearing. I am definately replacing it myself. How much I can do myself is unknown. I know I can do all the way to the bearings.
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Just remove the knuckle and take it to a shop with the new bearing. $50 for them to swap the bearing and you put it back together.
Dave
Dave
Can you tell me which parts I need to order?
yea just the bearing..... and 2 new grease seals front and rear are the samepart number.. check out www.worldpartsexpress.com.. they are awesome..
Originally Posted by f550maranello2
yea just the bearing..... and 2 new grease seals front and rear are the samepart number.. check out www.worldpartsexpress.com.. they are awesome..
So I want the front wheel bearing and 2 front hub seals?
Alright cool I hope they ship pretty fast. I just ordered 1 wheel bearing and 2 hub seals total of 64 plus 7.50 ship then a 2.00 handling fee for some reason. Total of 74.
Well my parts should be here Wed.
I went ahead and removed the knuckle. I popped the hub out today. I was looking at it and it like 42mm all around like it suppose to be. Then like at the very end there a tiny lip and it reduces size to like 41.5 or so. Is this ok? Or does it need replaced?
I went ahead and removed the knuckle. I popped the hub out today. I was looking at it and it like 42mm all around like it suppose to be. Then like at the very end there a tiny lip and it reduces size to like 41.5 or so. Is this ok? Or does it need replaced?
Be careful with that. I had that same problem and I went through 2 wheel bearings within a month, before I figured out it was the hub. mine was also off by a few 10ths of a mm. I know that the new one that I got was the same all around.
Originally Posted by Russ1914
Be careful with that. I had that same problem and I went through 2 wheel bearings within a month, before I figured out it was the hub. mine was also off by a few 10ths of a mm. I know that the new one that I got was the same all around.
My passenger side wheel bearing went because of the constant re and re of my axles. I suspect my driver side is starting to go because im getting the similar noise but from the left side now.
I also wanted to mention that there are a number of Nissan dealers where you can order OEM parts online that are very competitive price wise. For instance MidwayNissan.com lists the bearing for $42.50 and the seals for $11.91 each for a total of $66.32. I’m not one of these guys that that thinks that you shouldn’t ever use a non OEM part, but if I can find the OEM part for a competitive price and I’m not in a huge hurry I like to stick with the OEM parts.
I’ve used www.MidwayNissan.com, www.JerryRomeNissan.com, and www.ConicelliNissan.com in the past and have been happy with all of them. I think most times they shipped the next day but were shipped UPS ground and took about 5 days to reach me.
I’ve even run across some instances where I could get the dealer part for less than an aftermarket part. I needed to replace a sensor on my Ford truck and the local parts stores had it for $77-80 range, I tried to find it on OEMFordParts.com but couldn’t find it in their catalog so I called their parts department and he was able to give me the part number and quoted me a price of $116 after I explained that I was trying to order online but couldn’t find it in the catalog, he told me how to order it online by part number and it was only $67. I haven’t figured that one out the same part from the same dealer for nearly half the cost by ordering online vs. over the phone.
I’ve used www.MidwayNissan.com, www.JerryRomeNissan.com, and www.ConicelliNissan.com in the past and have been happy with all of them. I think most times they shipped the next day but were shipped UPS ground and took about 5 days to reach me.
I’ve even run across some instances where I could get the dealer part for less than an aftermarket part. I needed to replace a sensor on my Ford truck and the local parts stores had it for $77-80 range, I tried to find it on OEMFordParts.com but couldn’t find it in their catalog so I called their parts department and he was able to give me the part number and quoted me a price of $116 after I explained that I was trying to order online but couldn’t find it in the catalog, he told me how to order it online by part number and it was only $67. I haven’t figured that one out the same part from the same dealer for nearly half the cost by ordering online vs. over the phone.
Sorry, just followed the link to http://www.worldpartsexpress.com/ and found that they are OEM parts as well.
It's a really easy job if you have the right tools. If you don't have a way to properly press the new bearing in, I wouldn't bother doing it.
1. Take off wheel 21mm x 5
2. Remove caliper 19mm x 2, remove rotor
3. Remove axle nut 34mm
4. Remove bolt from spindle to control arm (IIRC 17mm)
5. Remove strut from strut tower 21mm x 3
*If you leave the strut connected to the spindle, you won't need an allignment afterwards. I guess dead simple suspensions like ours have some advantages.
6. Remove the old bearing. Get it out however you like, just make sure you don't damage the inner surface of the spindle or the outter bearing race will be a ***** to get out, and getting the new one in will be a major pain in the ***.
7. Press in the new bearing STRAIGHT!!! And press on the outter race and ONLY on the outter race. If it goes in cocked, it'll be a major pain in the ***. An easy way to get an appropriate sized press is to cut a relief in the outter race of the old bearing so you can remove it easily after you press in the new bearing.
That's about it. Besides a press, and arguably an impact gun for the axle nut, hand tools will do. All in from jacking the car up to washing up, should take an hour.
1. Take off wheel 21mm x 5
2. Remove caliper 19mm x 2, remove rotor
3. Remove axle nut 34mm
4. Remove bolt from spindle to control arm (IIRC 17mm)
5. Remove strut from strut tower 21mm x 3
*If you leave the strut connected to the spindle, you won't need an allignment afterwards. I guess dead simple suspensions like ours have some advantages.
6. Remove the old bearing. Get it out however you like, just make sure you don't damage the inner surface of the spindle or the outter bearing race will be a ***** to get out, and getting the new one in will be a major pain in the ***.
7. Press in the new bearing STRAIGHT!!! And press on the outter race and ONLY on the outter race. If it goes in cocked, it'll be a major pain in the ***. An easy way to get an appropriate sized press is to cut a relief in the outter race of the old bearing so you can remove it easily after you press in the new bearing.
That's about it. Besides a press, and arguably an impact gun for the axle nut, hand tools will do. All in from jacking the car up to washing up, should take an hour.
Originally Posted by 97maxgxe420
does anyone have a picture diagram on how to fix a wheel bearing because i am just starting to fix my maxima due to free time...thanks evryone
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