So i go to the track, and i get ungodly wheelhop. So bad that on one run it trips my kill switch and my car dies. the second time it wheel hops so bad my tps sensor comes off (3.5 swap). Neither of the times did I get a decent 60', and it drastically hurt my 1/4 time.

I have polyurethane motor mounts, and toyoproxes4's at 25psi. Maybe the track was just cold that night, as i dont do burnouts at all, but it was seriously embarrassing to get that much wheel hop and have my car shut off.

I was thinking of getting Jclaw's traction bars, but havent heard many things from people face to face, and im not sure if i wanna spend that amount of money on something that might not work.

What can I do to reduce wheel hop?

 

Get a set of Jbars. They work. I just pulled a 1.88 60' and a 1.97 60' last nite while launching with a two-stage 150-shot and trying to test my transmission shifter. I can steer the car at the same time. And I'm automatic.

They've worked for me since I installed them - and I was on the initial list of people that purchased them. No wheel hop since then. None.

PS: I want your 3.5. Hummm - a 3.5 w/150-shot....

 

People who still got some wheel hop with them most likely have shot/worn bushings. The bar can't work to its fullest potential if your control arm attachment point is wobbling all over the place. I always recommend getting ES bushings or Stock Replacement if you don't trust your original bushings. It can only bring positive points to car that's 10-12 years old.

Honestly, I've recieve a majority of positive feedback. A car's condition is out of my reach. I'd like to come up with a design that works regardless of the bushings' condition but I don't think that's even physically possible.

BTW - Nice work on the 1.88 60 foot- Autos have a loooooong first gear.

 

I agree on the bushings. They can make a world of difference, especially since many of our cars are older now.

I am not knocking the JBars in any way, as they did help me out last year for a spell with my worn bushings. But this year I replaced all my bushings with new ES poly and I am able to launch hard at the track with no wheel hop and without the JBars. And if you've seen my 60' times you know I'm not exaggerating when I say "launch hard."

Even on the street I don't get wheel hop, just some spin.

But JClaw please understand I'm not trying to take away your business at all, just giving an honest opinion. The bars did help me last year when my shot bushings were still on there.

 

Simple solution = step up to a FR chassis layout.

 

Thanks - but with the short 23/8.5/15 M&Hs, it's not so long anymore. Heh.

 

You need to be really careful with that wheelhop brother... you're just asking to break a spider gear (or more rarely, first gear). Broken gears = bad

 

yea, i really didnt wanna break anything. I'll try out the new bushings. Are they a pain in the *** to install? I've done everything on my car myself, i just wanna know what i'm dealing with. I'll look it up in the FSM.

 

i put in brand new A arms they came with all new bushings after that my wheel hop went away 99.9%

i think with wider slicks i could pull 1.6's because i get spin in 1st and chirping with shift to 2nd and 3rd no need for RWD


i have some new stufff i will be trying this sat cant wait

 

Dandy, which bushing did you end up changing?

I had terrible wheel hop and replaced my control arms w/ bushings, tires and got J-bars. All that made a difference but it was still there. I guess the wheel hop did the damage to my trans already and a month later my trans blew. Now with the Quaife, wheel hop is gone except it might do it in the rain.

 

Yes but you're using slicks. Slicks have literally "no" sidewall. You won't get wheelhop on slicks unless you're trying really hard.

What I'm saying is that even though the traction bars do the same job on slicks and street tires, slicks are so soft and mushy that they already absorb most of it.

I don't remember having wheelhop on slicks but on street tires, for me and many others though, wheelhop was an absolute plague. I always considered the traction bars to also be a security device ever since I blew 3rd gear due to violent wheelhop. A sub-200$ product (including the shipping) isn't that much to pay considering how much some people end up spending on a replacement trans, especially if they don't do the job themselves and end up paying labor too.

Not to mention that the same traction devices that sell for Hondas are more complicated but do the same job and often go for 350-400$+shipping.

Wow I didn't know they still produced the Quaife. I always thought it'd been discontinued for a while. I would have strongly considered that diff when I had my max.

 

I know slicks are a bit different but that's why I also said:

 

I changed the LCA's, end links, sway bar, and cross member bushings. Plus I already had motor mounts.

Oh, and check ball joints too. Those buggers can really mess up your front end tightness quickly if they get any play in them.

 

coilovers would work too