Clutch acting up. Only when warm.
Clutch acting up. Only when warm.
Hi, I searched and couldnt find anything similar
Here is the deal.
Last saturday I was driving to work on highway doing about 70 and noticed there were few cars close behind me. So I step on gas and nothing. RPMs went up but speed didnt. So I take an exit, pull in parking lot and stop the car. Then start it and put it in first and clutch slipped
20mph in 10 min I made it to Nissan dealership. Mechanic told me it was clutch for sure.
So I stayed at dealership for about 40 minutes, and decided to give the car a go. Drove it to work for 20 minutes it drove PERFECT! No slipping or nothing. So now I have set diagnosis. After 30 minutes of driving clutch starts to slip. It takes me 30 min to get to work so every morning as I pull in to my works parking lot my clutch starts to slip. Exacly 30 minutes after I start the car.
Before that I can put it in 4th and floor it and it drives perfectly no slippage what soever.
Since I bought the car 2 weeks ago I have papers from the shop that did the clutch 2 months ago. Brand new clutch and flywheel 2 months ago. I called the pace and they said that its impossible for a clutch to die that fast. I did learn on the car how to drive 5-speed but Im not that brutal + I drove it only for 7 days and it happened.
Before I start replacing the clutch Im wondering can it be something else?
My clutch pedal catches all the way at the top. Maybe its not "connecting" the clutch enough? Can some fluid get in clutch after some driving? Any experience with this? Thanks!
Here is the deal.
Last saturday I was driving to work on highway doing about 70 and noticed there were few cars close behind me. So I step on gas and nothing. RPMs went up but speed didnt. So I take an exit, pull in parking lot and stop the car. Then start it and put it in first and clutch slipped
20mph in 10 min I made it to Nissan dealership. Mechanic told me it was clutch for sure. So I stayed at dealership for about 40 minutes, and decided to give the car a go. Drove it to work for 20 minutes it drove PERFECT! No slipping or nothing. So now I have set diagnosis. After 30 minutes of driving clutch starts to slip. It takes me 30 min to get to work so every morning as I pull in to my works parking lot my clutch starts to slip. Exacly 30 minutes after I start the car.
Before that I can put it in 4th and floor it and it drives perfectly no slippage what soever.
Since I bought the car 2 weeks ago I have papers from the shop that did the clutch 2 months ago. Brand new clutch and flywheel 2 months ago. I called the pace and they said that its impossible for a clutch to die that fast. I did learn on the car how to drive 5-speed but Im not that brutal + I drove it only for 7 days and it happened.
Before I start replacing the clutch Im wondering can it be something else?
My clutch pedal catches all the way at the top. Maybe its not "connecting" the clutch enough? Can some fluid get in clutch after some driving? Any experience with this? Thanks!
Try bleeding both bleeders and see if that helps.
I say bring it back to the shop soon to get it checked under warranty. They coulda messed up installing it, like got the flywheel dirty, causing slippage when it warms up.
Jae
I say bring it back to the shop soon to get it checked under warranty. They coulda messed up installing it, like got the flywheel dirty, causing slippage when it warms up.
Jae
Originally Posted by ThurzNite
Try bleeding both bleeders and see if that helps.
I say bring it back to the shop soon to get it checked under warranty. They coulda messed up installing it, like got the flywheel dirty, causing slippage when it warms up.
Jae
I say bring it back to the shop soon to get it checked under warranty. They coulda messed up installing it, like got the flywheel dirty, causing slippage when it warms up.
Jae
Since I bought the car and the clutch was done under another seller warranty not transferable :>
Originally Posted by ThurzNite
Oh, ok, then we're on our own huh? Alright, start with the bleeding proceedure and report back.
Jae
Jae
To make the long story short, I think that shop did not put a new clutch for her. She had a flex hose problem and there was no pressure in the clutch pedal and the shop just "replaced the whole clutch for free" which I dont believe. lol
I had 3 Mechanics with 15+ years exp drive the car and tell me the clutch will die any day.
I have a 5th gen setup in the mail already.!
Scenario 1: The clutch pedal is set incorrectly and engages too high, AND there is some air in the lines. Those two cancel each other out when it's cold. But, when it gets hot, the air heats up and expands, causing constant pressure in the system even when the clutch pedal is fully out and preventing the clutch from grabbing fully. Repair cost: some brake fluid ($5-$8), some clear tubing to catch the old fluid ($3 if that), and some time.
Scenario 2: Your slave cylinder is messed up. Repair cost: $45 for a new slave cylinder, plus the above when you bleed it.
Scenario 3: You have a bum pressure plate. Repair cost: More than the above...
Troubleshoot in that order.
Scenario 2: Your slave cylinder is messed up. Repair cost: $45 for a new slave cylinder, plus the above when you bleed it.
Scenario 3: You have a bum pressure plate. Repair cost: More than the above...
Troubleshoot in that order.
And it started to slip again. *** When the car is cold it drives awesome. the clutch feels good and engages low. And then it gets higher and higher and pedal feel gets worse and worse. Like all the way at the bottom it feels very bad and at the top too (almost like its scraping against something)
So, new clutch, new slave cylinder. Same stuff.
Maybe Im not bleeding correctly. I always end up at MIN fluid line in the clutch reservoir.
Thats how I do it: Fill up reservoir. Then get someone to press the pedal, and open the lower valve until clear fluid flows out of tube. Then i move to the top one and do same thing. But i always end up with amout of fluid right at MIN line. Could it be that since there isnt much fluid the air gets sucked in?
After I bleed the lower valve can I open the reservoir and add more fluid or no?
Any ideas would be great. I was thinking the pedal adjustment is wrong but when the car is cold it grabs right at the perfect point. So I would assume its good. Or should I play around with that?
Im going to bleed the system once more tonight.
Cheers
So, new clutch, new slave cylinder. Same stuff.
Maybe Im not bleeding correctly. I always end up at MIN fluid line in the clutch reservoir.
Thats how I do it: Fill up reservoir. Then get someone to press the pedal, and open the lower valve until clear fluid flows out of tube. Then i move to the top one and do same thing. But i always end up with amout of fluid right at MIN line. Could it be that since there isnt much fluid the air gets sucked in?
After I bleed the lower valve can I open the reservoir and add more fluid or no?
Any ideas would be great. I was thinking the pedal adjustment is wrong but when the car is cold it grabs right at the perfect point. So I would assume its good. Or should I play around with that?
Im going to bleed the system once more tonight.
Cheers
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TKHanson
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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Nov 24, 2018 01:39 AM




