I finally have the MEVI up and running. Well, sort of...

The car runs and drives fine. My problem is I can't get the manifold actuator to open when it should. I believe I've installed everything correctly and checked my work three times. I've installed everything per Curt's diagram. See below. (Thanks Curt, you've been a tremendous help offline!) When I first fired the car up, the manifold actuator would open and stay open. So, I figured I need to switch the hoses on the vacuum canister. Tried that and the butterfly valves closed and would not open at my test RPM's (2000 RPM's). So, I put the hoses back the way they were. Then I switched the vacuum hoses on the Dawes Device (vacuum solenoid) and the same thing happened where the butterfly valves would close and not open at my test RPM's. I tried other combos, but all yielded no results.

Parts:
New vacuum canister (round in shape) from Ian's group deal ages ago
Nissan OEM vacuum canister listed in various MEVI threads--not being used at the moment
New Dawes Device solenoid
30amp Relay
New Harlan RPM switch

Questions:
1. The Dawes Device has a chrome port on one side and two black plastic ports on the other side. One of the two black plastic sides came with a piece of foam covering it. I assume this is the "vent" port, right?. So, does the chrome port go to the MEVI or to the vacuum canister?

2. Can someone confirm that Ian's vac canister (generic) has a check valve built in? According to many old threads, it says that it does, however, looking at Ian's writeup, he clearly states, "Manifold vacuum-->check valve-->vacuum canister-->solenoid-->manifold actuator. This leads me to believe that I need to install one inline.

3. The Nissan OEM vacuum canister has two ports, identical in size and shape. This leads me to believe that a one-way check valve is NOT built in. Other supporting evidence is when you look at our cars and look under the fuse bock near the battery, you'll see said vacuum canister, and if you follow the hoses, you'll see a white one way check valve in line. This can also be seen in the FSM. However, multiple threads discussing the OEM vac canister claim that a one-way check valve is built in. So, now I'm Does the OEM vac canister have a one-way check valve built in or not?

4. I bought a generic one-way check valve for a couple bucks (no directions)...one side has a small opening, and the other has a large opening. Which way do I install it?


Your input is much appreciated. And yes, I programmed the Harlan switch to "Coil per plug"

 

James:
I missed this thread and your email, but sent you an email this morning which I hope will solve the problem.

 

Just pm'd you. I'm too embarassed to post what an idiot i was when doing my install. Just check it just in case.

I couldn've sworn I read that Ian's VC didn't have a Ck vlv built in. Not to sure though man. good luck to ya and let us know how it goes.

 

wizard, how hard was it to install the mevi and do u think with a s/c its worth it and made a drastic difference?

 

Just to address the last couple of posts, regardless of whether or not Ian's write-up had a checkvalve, you need one, either built-in or in-line.
To trialt's question, my journey started with a MEVI installation on a NA engine using the JWT ECU w/ 7200 RPM redline, so I don't know what power I might have lost down low with the stock ECU. I just read all the threads and decided that was the way I wanted to go. Big smiles, and glad I did.
Next step was to upgrade to the 00VI, keeping the JWT ECU. Even bigger smiles, and glad I did (in spite of the much more difficult installation). Compared to some guys who've done the 00VI and had problems making things run right, mine was dead on from the get-go. Start, warm-up, idle, everything worked just like it did before - until I planted my foot into it. That's when the improvement showed up. Maybe I was lucky. But I think it was the result of 2 things: First, I decided to stick with the 4th gen TB, IACV, EGR, EVAP, etc., concerned that going in any other direction might require band-aids to get things operating back to normal. And secondly, I was extremely careful to keep tabs on everything as I disassembled in order to ensure that everything got reassembled in a functionally comparable way. No, not all of the vacuum ports, lines, etc. are the same, but functionally they need to be reconnected in a similar way for them to operate similarly.
Although the MEVI installation is one which can be successfully accomplished without a whole lot of brain work (i.e., just follow the diagrams such as I sent The Wizard), the 00VI is a whole different kettle of fish. But at least in my mind, well worth the trouble.
Oh, and just to finish where I started, my Stillen SC is mounted on a spare engine with Matty's V1 plate, waiting for the right time to swap it in. I cringe at the thought of trying to do an intake upgrade (either MEVI or 00VI) at the same time as doing a SC installation, and then changing other things like the TB, IACV, etc.
I'm a big fan of keeping things relatively simple and plug-n-play, and I like to take things one step at a time. That way if it doesn't come out working as it ought to, there's usually a limited number of possible causes to focus my diagnosis on. Maybe a little more work in the short run, but looking at some of the odysseys of guys who've had problems getting the mod to work right, I think my approach has the potential to save a lot of time and frustration in the long run.

 

Thanks Curt. Your email definately helped me tremendously. The MEVI is now up and running!!

Everything works perfectly and I set my RPM switchover point at 5100.

To answer my own questions in hopes of helping other orgers in the future, LOL:

1. I don't think I have a Dawes Device. If I look closely, my vacuum solenoid has Delco-Remy on it. Curt, does a Dawes Device have all 3 ports on one side like your diagram? My vac solenoid has one port on one side and two on the other side. See pic. Anyway, after using Curt's advice to figure out the check valve issue, that left only a couple possibilities to hook up hoses to the vac solenoid. I thought for sure the port with the small piece of grey foam was telling me that was the "vent to air" port and I dismissed trying to use that port for the longest time. I eventually applied my knowledge of the vac can to the vac solenoid, ie "the hose and suck test" and realized which port does what! I'm a
2. The round vac can IanSW provided does indeed have a check valve. Again, once I knew how to test it per Curt's recommendations, it was a piece of cake to figure out what's what.
3. The OEM vac can does NOT have a check valve, just like I suspected. Many threads say otherwise. I bet this information would've helped a few orgers out a while ago.. Anyway, I incorporated a one way vacuum check valve (can be bought at any autoparts store for 3-5$) and bam, the OEM vac can worked like a charm. I'll be using this vac can so I can hide it under the MEVI cover.
4. See #3.

Pic of Delco Remy vac solenoid



More pics to come of the finished product.

 

James:
The Dawes Device from the side view looks exactly like in my diagram. Glad I could help.

 

Thanks for the PM chewabacha. That wasn't the problem, but I'll keep it in mind for future.


It wasn't hard to install at all. The hardest part was figuring out the the darn hoses going connecting the MEVI to the solenoid and vac canister. In retrospect, I definately made it harder than it really is.

I took 3 hours to remove the USIM, and that was going slow, labeling every bolt so it goes back in the same place, taking a boatload of pics. I reinstalled it in 2 hours. I probably spent 1 hour just staring at the engine bay determing where I want everything mounted just so I can get the look I wanted, and not to interfere with future plans. Had I hussled and not taken pics/labeled stuff, it can be done in a total of 3 hours. The wiring can then be done in less than 1 hour. I took many hours because I want the OEM look, so I stuck my wires in a vice and the other in a drill, and twisted them together. I then electrical taped everything and plan to put them in looms to hide and conceal everything. I'm almost done with mounting and making everything look nice and tidy. I hate it when I see someone's engine bay and theres 100 different colored wires running all over the place. I also took my sweet ol' time cleaning the intake runners, EGR, and IACV the best I could.

Would I say it's worth it? Hell yeah. I can definately feel a difference on the butt dyno. It's not drastic, but it's significant enough to notice and make a difference. Many MEVI threads talk about the pros and cons. It is noted that the MEVI makes the most difference on FI maximas. I've never driven in a MEVI'd NA maxima, so I can't tell you precisely how it's different. With the MEVI, I'll probably launch a little slower (which is a good thing, traction is a b!tch even with sticky Toyo Proxy R's) and then make up for on the top end.

Next up is the Greddy EU, so I can start datalogging/tuning and raise my REV limit to take full advantage of the MEVI.

Curt, I'm glad to hear your 00VI swap was a complete success. I also couldn't agree with you more on what you said in your last paragraph in post #5.

 

Hey...james. pm me the things you had to get to make it work and where you got it from. I am debating if I should go with the Vtec controller.
thanx
I will come down 1 of these daze to check out your set up. mine never worked propperly.

 

I went to the GM dealership and fgot the connector or that Vac solenoid.

 

I bought a full brand new MEVI kit, including MEVI cover, relay, vac can, GM solenoid, and Harlan RPM switch a year ago when I first bought my Max. I just now installed it . I'll be glad to help you source any parts that you may need. Just let me know. I'm curious, what parts do you have?
Generic vac can or OEM vac can? or?
What brand of RPM switch?
What type of vac solenoid? Dawes Device or?
Do you have a relay in your setup?

You know you're always more than welcome to come down. I can help you source parts and/or help troubleshoot your install. Just let me know.

huh??

 

I bought a Harlan switch, nissan solenoid, a NAPA vac can, I didn't get a relay...i through them out after my accident but it didn't work prperly at the time. I was gonna get it all done but ish happens. I am just about finished with my motor/ 5speed swap. shoulda done a 3.5 but I retained my motor from the accident. I will let you know when I am ready.much appreciated.

 

Yes, all the MEVI's I sold came with either a check valve seperate or one built into the canister - depending on when I sold you the kit. (The 2nd set I sold had it built in).

In addition, if I didn't tell everyone this before - all the screws in the MEVI are sealed with red loctite to prevent any screws form falling into the engine. (This has never happened with one I sold, but it did happen to others).

 

The only person I know that worked was Ian....wassup Ian...I am guessing I am starting all over....I just never botthered to make it work....I just had other projects to finish before the MEVI..Whats your next thing Ian?

 

Huh? Lots of MEVIs I sold worked, and are working today.

As far as working on the Maxima goes, I've pretty much given up on it since having the kid and the wife quitting her job. No time/money.

359hp was a good goal and I hit it. Have begun looking now at other cars since the Max is about to hit it's 10th B-Day. Considering a new BMW 335i in about a year, depending on if my wife decides to go back to work or my investments take a hop.

 

Double huh??? Mine works great. It was just a matter of figuring out the hose connections/wiring.

Like I said before, I'll be glad to help you get your MEVI up and running. Just let me know Tay.

 

It seems like you guys would be able to help me a bit over here. Check the thread ''v-afc2 in a 99es 3.5 swap'' in the all motor section. It's kinda related to the vacuum wiring and power source to the vacuum solenoid. It's pita for us over here (trying to get the best of it but after a 12hr troubleshooting marathon, i'm relying on you guys, PLEASE!!!!!) Gimme some news, thanks twice!!!