EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve

do we have to use this ? we took mine out and the car is running. just wondering if this is ok to do or will there be issues ?


thoughts, issues, pros, cons ? anyone else do this ?

 

Caesar,

The evap control vale--if it's the one I think you removed off the manifold--is pretty much used just to diagnose other problems in the Evap system. So, no, it won't likely do any harm to your car (don't quote me if it bursts into flames) but you wont be able to get any sort of codes from any portion of the system, which is pretty much the two bypass valves near the gas tank.

Check page EC-241 in the FSM.

00VI on yet? and if so how's it run??

 

 

I'm not sure why you would want to remove it.

 

Id leave it on. Its small, just kinda put it on the top of the manifold and it definetly functions with your EVAP system. leave it on

-matt

 

Ceasar, how's the install coming. I saw the thread you started and could have offered an 8 page document discussing nearly all aspects of the install. Sounds like you have it covered.

 

what intake is that on there?

 

Are you talking about the intake manifold or the intake piping from the super charger?

 

havent finished the install yet, but close. Christmas Holidays are just now finishing up here, so everyones been on holiday. all we really have let is just to tidy everything up, and make some brackets.

on the EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve it has a metal bracket attached to it, thought we would just toss that part and just use a hose. might should put it back on and see if the car runs any different.

 

I tossed that bracket and just extended the 3/8" hose to the other side of the manifold. I dont have it close to the TB like is with the stock setup. I also ran a 5/32" line too.

-matt

 

well never put the ECPCV back on, but finally finished with the install. yesterday we just made brackets and cleaned up the engine bay.

On cold start she cranks right up and if you dont have your foot on the gas immediately dies, will do it over and over. So you have to hold the gas pedal down for awhile until the engine gets warmed up.

Sometimes if you rev it up as the engine drops rpms to reach idle again it will die, while running from cold start.

Once the car is running, and we drove it into town, even in its present shape, it feels just as fast as it did with the USIM, with a mild backfire once or twice in 30 mins of driving. So Max goes real well.

Temperature was fine, not running hot. Feels great to have this completed.

Also do have a service engine light on (5 years and running) need to check those codes. Also need to wash the Max it has more bird crap on it than paint, miss matched wheels and race numbers on it. HA, looks horrible.

 

why going in all those drivability problem instead of leaving it in its place???

 

Do you not have a way to activate the VIAS yet or are you waiting to install the EU for that?

 

Sounds like your idle problem is a IACV related. I had the same trouble when I didn't have the supply side of the IACV plumbed. You'll love it when it's done and tuned. I found that mine does not have a ton more power, it just revs faster and the power is more even.

 

if u leave that valve off and dont connect hoses together u will have a slight vacuum leak...and without it u could throw a code

 

correct, no way to activate it until EU is installed.

 

thats y it doesnt feel any different

 

i was expecting it to feel much slower, it runs real good to me, lol !

 

sweet...good job...i know u always pay attn to detail