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Does NOT run right after 00vi swap, help!

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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 02:10 PM
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Does NOT run right after 00vi swap, help!

I'm not getting many responces in the All Motor forum so thats why i'm posting here.

Earlier, the car would not idle, but now i got it to idle a little bit by unhooking a vacuum hose and creating a vacuum leak from the manifold. Its running very rich. I'm using the following de-k parts: upper/lower/fuel rail/injectors/tb/iacv(runs same if hooked or unhooked).
Here are some videos of how it is:



It IS idling at about 1100rpm in this video.
You can hear the popping in the middle of the video.

It's hard to tell from the video, but its running VERY rough. I took apart the injector rail and the o-rings look fine, and it seems like it seals up well.

Here's how it sounds from the exhaust side:



In the middle, i got the car to idle and stay at idle. After the video, i could have the car idling for a few minutes before dying, but its EXTREMELY rough like before.

Injectors are tight on the fuel rail/lower manifold, so i dont think they're leaking. I know they're all spraying, i tested that. Seems like i'm runnign too much fuel. I have the stock fuel pressure regulator but i do NOT have a dampner installed, i just have a nipple jb welded in there.

Anybody have any ideas?
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 02:14 PM
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where are your videos ? i could try and help but i dont know 10% of what most of the guys know in the all motor forum. have you tried asking Curt ?
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 02:26 PM
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Ok videos are up now. What do you think?
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
Ok videos are up now. What do you think?
i think the muffler makes the car sound
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 2da mizzax
i think the muffler makes the car sound
oh sh*t so thats the problem?!?!? damn man thanks for figuring it out for me!!! wish there were more people like you on the org!

Old Feb 4, 2007 | 02:43 PM
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 05:58 PM
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Update: the car idles perfectly smooth at 1500rpm without the maf sensor plugged in. When its reved, it goes up to 2.5k and acts like there's a rev limiter right there, it just bounces off of it. Wtf???
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 06:05 PM
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Where's the smoke? If you were running rich enough to misfire you'd have tons of dark smoke coming out your tail pipe. Your exhaust looks clean in that video. What is that hose disconnect a few pics up? You shouldn't have any hoses disconnected anywhere. Go back over all your work. Make sure all vacuum lines are going to the correct places and any not used are sealed off. Check the EGR system as well, if the EGR is stuck open you might idle like that.
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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EGR is covered shut for a while. There was lots of black smoke at first, now it just smokes a lot, enough to fill up the garage even with the door open. I hooked up that hose. I got three codes.

evap
iacv
tps


i think i fixed the evap by hooking it up to a nipple on the manifold, it wasn't hooked to one earlier.

gotta get this thing to a drivable condition this night.
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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Could be a leak. Sounds like the idle is bouncing....is it? Why is the hose on the right of the resonator not hooked up? What do you have the IACV running to? EVAP doesn't need to be vacuum per say. Ceasar had his taken off I believe. But also not his DD. Make sure all those vacuums are correct and make sure everything is set correctly. TB, TPS, IACV needs vacuum all that. Where is the smoke coming from? Engine bay? That intake looks ify to me. I would say to go check that. What is the rest of your setup?
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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See if you have an issue with a particular cyl. Start it up, unplug, listen, then plug back in the coils 1 cyl at a time. If you have any cyls with no change, you know the problem is limited to that cyl, pull the plug. If it is soaked in fuel, you know you have some delivery issue. COuld be as simple as it fowed when you started or could be a bad oring in the injector seat causing it to dump fuel.
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
Update: the car idles perfectly smooth at 1500rpm without the maf sensor plugged in. When its reved, it goes up to 2.5k and acts like there's a rev limiter right there, it just bounces off of it. Wtf???
this is a common malfunction when your maf isn't working properly. Plug it back in.
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackMaxdout
this is a common malfunction when your maf isn't working properly. Plug it back in.
I agree, I missed saying that in my other post. You don't need everything plugged in when starting (to see if it starts) but when trying to get it to run smoothly you need all the parts hooked up correctly. Trying to set the car without having correct vacuum or correct electrical hookups is pointless.
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 06:44 PM
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cdg-i'm using 5th gen iacv, so there's nothing to hook up an air hose to. The hose on the right of the resonator would normally be hooked up to the iacv. Idle is bouncing and popping through the intake filter. I did not adjust my tps or tb, but should the car really be THIS bad without them adjusted? The intake is temporary, i'm ordering a midpipe soon. My setup is 5th upper/lower/rail/injectors/tb/iacv, 4th gen tps.



abustiffy-if its perfectly smooth without the maf plugged in, doesnt that mean that all my cylinders are working? i'll do the test either way, im out of ideas.




BlackMaxdout-i think i have another maf sensor at home, i'll try that one.

edit: wait then my sensor is working properly if it changes how the car acts when i plug it back in.
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 06:49 PM
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Ok, forget what I said about IACV. Didn't know you had the 5th gen. It doesnt matter if it runs right without the MAF plugged in. It needs to be plugged in. The tps is causing me major problems still. Messes a little with my idle and totally f*cks my transmission. You really need to set it all correctly and see what happens. I still think you might have a leak. My car these past two days had a really bad idle and was surging and bouncing at idle and wanted to stall. Turned out part of my intake was loose and air was getting in. Make sure there are no leaks.

edit: also agree that there might be a problem with an o-ring or something causing a leakage of fuel and maybe air. Could be the source of smoke and possibly for a leak.
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Cdg2125
Ok, forget what I said about IACV. Didn't know you had the 5th gen. It doesnt matter if it runs right without the MAF plugged in. It needs to be plugged in. The tps is causing me major problems still. Messes a little with my idle and totally f*cks my transmission. You really need to set it all correctly and see what happens. I still think you might have a leak. My car these past two days had a really bad idle and was surging and bouncing at idle and wanted to stall. Turned out part of my intake was loose and air was getting in. Make sure there are no leaks.

edit: also agree that there might be a problem with an o-ring or something causing a leakage of fuel and maybe air. Could be the source of smoke and possibly for a leak.
Ok i appreciate the help man, i'm gonna attempt to adjust the tps tomorrow and go from there. I heard it was a real PITA, and i dont even know how to do it yet. I'll also quadriple check for vacuum leaks. I don't think i have a fuel problem anymore because i dont smell anything odd from the engine, i meant the smoke still comes from the tail pipe.
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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You didn't bypass your throttle body did you?
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Fr33way™
You didn't bypass your throttle body did you?
All the throttle body has hooked up to it is coolant, tps, iacv...what do you mean bypass?
Old Feb 4, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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I meant coolant. Juuust checking.
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 02:52 AM
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bump for new ideas
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
When its reved, it goes up to 2.5k and acts like there's a rev limiter right there, it just bounces off of it. Wtf???
TPS isn't set properly
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 06:35 AM
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You are running coolant through the 00 TB? Why may I ask? You are using the '00 IACV apparently and not many if anyone has gotten that to work properly. Also, why did you chose to use the EVAP from the 00 you could have easily stuck your 99 EVAP back in there.
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 07:12 AM
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from my experience with evap(limited but have some haha), it probably isnt your leading cause. ide say you have a misadjusted TPS. thats why its reving all crazy.

edit: i could be wrong, but i think a while back when i was looking into doing the swap i read that you needed the computer too? but like i said i could be wrong...something to check though
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gtr_rider
You are running coolant through the 00 TB? Why may I ask? You are using the '00 IACV apparently and not many if anyone has gotten that to work properly. Also, why did you chose to use the EVAP from the 00 you could have easily stuck your 99 EVAP back in there.


Ok i just adjusted the TPS, its nearly in spec...car is still acting the same. Then i hooked up the 4th gen IACV with stephenmax's plate, and still no luck. I used evap from the 4th gen.



The car is a little better idling but its still popping like im making popcorn, especially at below 1500 rpm. This thing needs to be fixed very soon....i have no clue what the problem is now.
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by jmeister
TPS isn't set properly
that was only when the maf was unplugged....this thing is driving me insane
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 12:00 PM
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Popping noises mean you have a leak. At least that's what it was for me.

Willard what do you mean by computer?
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Cdg2125
Popping noises mean you have a leak. At least that's what it was for me.

Willard what do you mean by computer?
air leak or fuel leak? also how do i go about figuring out where it is?
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 12:07 PM
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Air leak. Possibly both if there is an issue with the fuel rail. You'll have to look around and listen. Possibly go back and take things apart.
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
What is that shiney piece on the fuel rail vacuum line? Other than that on the FPR is the pipe kinked at all?
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 12:43 PM
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Thats just another line with a screw in it, the fpr vacuum line doesn't have obstructions....i just pulled plugs, and they all work and they're all black of course.
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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Ok, i have an Fuel Pressure Regulator, as gtr rider was pointing to, and on the other end of the fuel rail, i just have a nipple jb welded. Maybe the problem is either the FPR or the nipple? I don't have a fuel pressure regulator in there.
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 02:05 PM
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so you dont have vacuum to the FPR?
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Cdg2125
Popping noises mean you have a leak. At least that's what it was for me.

Willard what do you mean by computer?
i meant ecu...i was just looking and couldnt find anything about it so i think i was mistaken.
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 02:27 PM
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yeah no need for a new ecu with the swap.
Old Feb 5, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Cdg2125
so you dont have vacuum to the FPR?
The FPR has vacuum. That shiny thing that gtrrider was refering to is just a bolt stuck into another unrelated vacuum hose.
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