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My custom SFC's...quick question before we make em

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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My custom SFC's...quick question before we make em

This weekend my friend and i are going to be installing custom SFC's for our maximas. I'm a gxe on ksports/fstb, he's an se on stock suspension/fstb, so this should end up pretty educational for future SFC-ers. I'm going with a stage 2 plus some, and he's going with stage 1.

All parts besides a few minor details are already bought and ready to install, so this isnt a BS 'immago doit laterzzz' type of deal, this is actually being installed on saturday.

The tubing is 1 1/4 inch steel, round. It's going to be welded in 4 spots on each side on his car and on 5 spots on each side on my car.

One quick question i had....where are the optimal points that i HAVE TO weld the mounting plates to? I know i only really need 3 or so spots, but it doesnt cost me too much more in material to have 5, so might as well. It seems to me that the thin metal in the frame that the mounting plates will be welded to will just flex a bit when under heavy stress(true?), so i want to know where the strongest points are so it doesn't flex. The idea we had was to just weld the pipe to the floor in the back, after the rail ends, and pretty much same in the front.

Another thing. what else should i connect with metal tubing? I'll have some extra tubes, so could i use it anywhere? Ground clearance isn't an issue, my car is high.



EDIT: STAGE 1 PICS DOWN THE PAGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old Mar 20, 2007 | 12:16 PM
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Stole my 00vi and now you're doing SFCs. It's official, I hate you.
Old Mar 20, 2007 | 12:28 PM
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Ideally you would do what the name suggests, and connect the subframes. I know the old WS ones were welded to the rear, but I don't think they connected to the front. Besides that I think you just put weld a few spots on the frame rails.
Old Mar 20, 2007 | 07:34 PM
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haha yeah yeah...if you weren't all the way in cali, we would make you some too!



The tube is going to be welded to the subframe rails, but im wondering where exactly are the strongest points to weld to, and if it would be beneficial to to tie the main rails into something else.

This will basically look like sciff5's setup (http://forum.maxima.org/showthread.p...hlight=sfc%27s ) except the piping in the X braces will be thicker and won't have that one bar in the middle of the x
Old Mar 29, 2007 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
haha yeah yeah...if you weren't all the way in cali, we would make you some too!



The tube is going to be welded to the subframe rails, but im wondering where exactly are the strongest points to weld to, and if it would be beneficial to to tie the main rails into something else.

This will basically look like sciff5's setup (http://forum.maxima.org/showthread.p...hlight=sfc%27s ) except the piping in the X braces will be thicker and won't have that one bar in the middle of the x

Any pics? How did the install go? what type of tubing was it?
Old Mar 29, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 95bluse
Any pics? How did the install go? what type of tubing was it?
The install went great on my friend's car, only did stage 1. We ran out of time so my car's stage 2+ will have to be done this weekend. We also welded on custom sway bars on our cars, and to my surprise they work great. Not too much oversteer like people here sometimes say, and the car's 'feel' is improved A TON. I'll have full pictures and full reviews of both our cars sometime on saturday or sunday.

Next after we finish teh SFC's, its custom LTB time, and tie it into the SFC's.
Old Mar 29, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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10char
Old Mar 29, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by irish44j
:

10char
I know i know, that'll come when everything is done this weekend. Be warned though, its not 'pretty' by ANY means, the welds aren't perfect, but it works EXACTLY like it should. We're not doing this to be pretty though, doing it so it works!
Old Mar 30, 2007 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
I know i know, that'll come when everything is done this weekend. Be warned though, its not 'pretty' by ANY means, the welds aren't perfect, but it works EXACTLY like it should. We're not doing this to be pretty though, doing it so it works!
you mean you didn't chrome-dip the SFCs before install????


nevermind then, I have no interest in seeing them
Old Mar 30, 2007 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by irish44j
you mean you didn't chrome-dip the SFCs before install????


nevermind then, I have no interest in seeing them
What a "douche"..the guy is trying his best.






Old Mar 30, 2007 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by irish44j
you mean you didn't chrome-dip the SFCs before install????


nevermind then, I have no interest in seeing them
Come on now i didnt think i came off sounding THAT cheap yo...chrome dip is a must for underbody parts duhh


Tonight we welded the stage 1 on my car, its ALMOST complete, still have a few plates to mount up. Stage 2 might have to wait another week or so, but it'll come soon. I'll post some pics tomorrow night. And i do know that so far,
Old Mar 31, 2007 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
Tonight we welded the stage 1 on my car, its ALMOST complete, still have a few plates to mount up.
NICE man. Be sure to post impressions when it's done.
Old Mar 31, 2007 | 09:50 PM
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Here are the pictures, we only got stage 1 done on both cars, stage 2 will be sometime next weekend probably. Thats primer and rubber undercoating sprayed on the welds if it's hard to tell.

my car:



Old Mar 31, 2007 | 09:52 PM
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his car:





All these pics show the SFC's and the custom RSB. I'll have driving impressions written up tomorrow, its bed time now.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 03:22 AM
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I think you will love the SFCs. But if you welded a solid brace into the rear beam and this a street car, then unless you like driving with 3 wheels on hard cornering.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
This seriously scares me....am I seeing this wrong, or did you weld a solid bar into the beam axle??? That appears to me to be a huge mistake. huge....
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SPiG
I think you will love the SFCs. But if you welded a solid brace into the rear beam and this a street car, then unless you like driving with 3 wheels on hard cornering.
Going to have to agree here, SFCs FTMFW, but I likes my rear suspension.

Hopefully you either like it or are able to undo it...
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 02:15 PM
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I don't know what you guys are talking about, the rear suspension still works like it should.....belive me, i have this on my car, not just talking 'in theory'. It still understeers a bit at the limit and the feel of the car is improved a ton. Can you explain why you think its a mistake? I'll undo it if there's a good arguement against it, but from what i FEEL, its a really good addition.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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Ha you just fuxored your twist rear beam.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
I don't know what you guys are talking about, the rear suspension still works like it should.....belive me, i have this on my car, not just talking 'in theory'. It still understeers a bit at the limit and the feel of the car is improved a ton. Can you explain why you think its a mistake? I'll undo it if there's a good arguement against it, but from what i FEEL, its a really good addition.
haven't you eliminated all of the travel of the rear suspension?
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 05:42 PM
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I don't see what the fuss is about. The "RSB" appears to be welded from one "trailing arms" to the rear beam, repeated on the other side, and then parallel with the beam. No where does it cross any true articulating joints. Therefore, it does not eliminate suspension travel. In stock form, these surfaces are not completely rigid (i.e. there is a certain amount of twist built into the interfaces). By adding the extra reinforcements, that amount of twist is reduced, and in fact does end up doing exactly the same thing as the Stillen or any other RSB. My only concern is that aftermarket RSBs are "U-shaped" and not so massive, so they conform closely to the suspension components and avoid any potential interference. Your design is bulkier, so it would run a greater chance of interference at full compression if you haven't planned carefully. I presume you have.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bigEL
I don't see what the fuss is about. The "RSB" appears to be welded from one "trailing arms" to the rear beam, repeated on the other side, and then parallel with the beam. No where does it cross any true articulating joints. Therefore, it does not eliminate suspension travel. In stock form, these surfaces are not completely rigid (i.e. there is a certain amount of twist built into the interfaces). By adding the extra reinforcements, that amount of twist is reduced, and in fact does end up doing exactly the same thing as the Stillen or any other RSB. My only concern is that aftermarket RSBs are "U-shaped" and not so massive, so they conform closely to the suspension components and avoid any potential interference. Your design is bulkier, so it would run a greater chance of interference at full compression if you haven't planned carefully. I presume you have.
The rear beam is designed to twist. Yes RSB's decrease the amount, but not to this extent...Get on a wet road and take a turn and see what happens....It's not really safe or stable at all...
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
Ha you just fuxored your twist rear beam.



This is also on my friend's stock spring/strut 4th gen and there's no apparent loss of travel, or any negative side effects for that matter. Reduced roll, tighter rear end, still SLIGHT understeer at limit.....
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by LA02MAX
The rear beam is designed to twist. Yes RSB's decrease the amount, but not to this extent...Get on a wet road and take a turn and see what happens....It's not really safe or stable at all...
Tried it, sorry......no 'crazy rear end sliding everywhere'.....
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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clarification:

since that pic isn't really far out enough to see, answer me this:

the bar welded to the beam....where does the other end attach?

If it attaches to the trailing arms...then forget what i said earlier. In the photo, it looks like you have it attached to the SFC side rails, which would make the beam entirely immobile (up and down). But if you just attached it to the trailing arms then I can see what you're doing (basically a beefed-up RSB).

Take a pic from farther away so we can see where the other end attaches. Those close-up views make it difficult to tell...
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by irish44j
clarification:

since that pic isn't really far out enough to see, answer me this:

the bar welded to the beam....where does the other end attach?

If it attaches to the trailing arms...then forget what i said earlier. In the photo, it looks like you have it attached to the SFC side rails, which would make the beam entirely immobile (up and down). But if you just attached it to the trailing arms then I can see what you're doing (basically a beefed-up RSB).

Take a pic from farther away so we can see where the other end attaches. Those close-up views make it difficult to tell...
Here, i drew a pic, haha i haven't connected any part of the beam to the SFC's, that woudl be completely retarded.


the spraypainted part is what we made.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
Here, i drew a pic, haha i haven't connected any part of the beam to the SFC's, that woudl be completely retarded.


the spraypainted part is what we made.
ah ok....that makes more sense

I had this picture in my head of you having a completely solid rear end with the braces going from the beam directly to the SFC side rails

Hence why a few people have commented that you are crazy.

So what you really have is a super-stiff RSB - reminds me of the B14(?) guy who had two RSBs on his car - one was forward of the beam and one was behind it.

Question: did you ever use a regular RSB on your car?
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by irish44j
Question: did you ever use a regular RSB on your car?
Nope, we made this so i dont have to spend $100+ on a regular RSB, and we figured this would work better anyway.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 07:00 PM
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Yeah, I was hoping that's the design you used instead of just a welded suspension.

It will most likely be a bit heavier than a $100 RSB, but will work the same way. Not a bad deal.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 07:23 PM
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I give it a month before the welds break on the rear axle braces..
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
I give it a month before the welds break on the rear axle braces..
K i'll let you know what happens in a month.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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Kudo's for trying something new! I too am a little worried about the welds especially if you've got a lot of rear travel in your suspension up & down. I'm guessing it might be the stiffest design yet and when you hit a bump or pothole on just one side it'll transmit that very evenly to the other side and you'll wind up feeling it rather hard.

You've joined an elite group incl Addco style RSB, Stillen's style RSB, dual RSB including the NISMO on the Sentra, and Stillen's boxing of the beam on the A33.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BEJAY1
Kudo's for trying something new! I too am a little worried about the welds especially if you've got a lot of rear travel in your suspension up & down. I'm guessing it might be the stiffest design yet and when you hit a bump or pothole on just one side it'll transmit that very evenly to the other side and you'll wind up feeling it rather hard.

You've joined an elite group incl Addco style RSB, Stillen's style RSB, dual RSB including the NISMO on the Sentra, and Stillen's boxing of the beam on the A33.
Thanks man! I guess sucks if the welds break, but hey...i can just fix them in 5 minutes and make them stronger. I dont think they're gonna break though. I have Ksports, and they're REALLY stiff. With this RSB and the SFC's, the ride quality is exactly what i wanted. Nice and stiff, but not floppy stiff like it used to be, its very 'composed' stiff. It doesn't bounce away from me on bumpy corners like it may seem. Feels like a high end sports car.

Stage 2 SFC with some custom one-of-a-kind 'additions' coming in a week or two...if i'm getting this type of critisism for this simple design RSB, i can't wait to see what some of you guys are gonna say about what i have planned

custom LTB coming soon also, and this will be quite interesting as well.
Old Apr 1, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
Thanks man! I guess sucks if the welds break, but hey...i can just fix them in 5 minutes and make them stronger. I dont think they're gonna break though. I have Ksports, and they're REALLY stiff. With this RSB and the SFC's, the ride quality is exactly what i wanted. Nice and stiff, but not floppy stiff like it used to be, its very 'composed' stiff. It doesn't bounce away from me on bumpy corners like it may seem. Feels like a high end sports car.

Stage 2 SFC with some custom one-of-a-kind 'additions' coming in a week or two...if i'm getting this type of critisism for this simple design RSB, i can't wait to see what some of you guys are gonna say about what i have planned

custom LTB coming soon also, and this will be quite interesting as well.
try to integrate bumper overriders into the new LTB
Old Apr 2, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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I'd like to know what type of tubing you used..i.e size & material.

Thx
Old Apr 2, 2007 | 12:14 PM
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1.25 inch steel
Old Apr 2, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 95bluse
I'd like to know what type of tubing you used..i.e size & material.

Thx
you don't read much, do you?
Old Apr 3, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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I don't know how thick it is from the top of my head, actually i dont think i ever knew. Just go to home depot and buy some tubing, and bring it to whatever shop. I checked the strength by putting one end on a solid surface, forming an angle, and hopping on the tube. It didn't bend at all, so thats how i knew it's good enough.
Old Apr 3, 2007 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4Max
I don't know how thick it is from the top of my head, actually i dont think i ever knew. Just go to home depot and buy some tubing, and bring it to whatever shop. I checked the strength by putting one end on a solid surface, forming an angle, and hopping on the tube. It didn't bend at all, so thats how i knew it's good enough.
Seriously? Do you weigh 3000lbs or something? I guess that's fine if you're doing all the work yourself, but for people who have to pay for fabrication and installation, randomly picking out tubing at Home Depot is probably not the best way to go.

For a more quantitative answer, here's what sciff5 used
"Mild steel DOM tubing. Stage 1 was 1.5" x .095" and stage 2 used 3/4" x .120"
http://forum.maxima.org/showpost.php...9&postcount=19
Old Apr 3, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bigEL
Seriously? Do you weigh 3000lbs or something? I guess that's fine if you're doing all the work yourself, but for people who have to pay for fabrication and installation, randomly picking out tubing at Home Depot is probably not the best way to go.

For a more quantitative answer, here's what sciff5 used
http://forum.maxima.org/showpost.php...9&postcount=19
Considering that the mounting plates are less than a foot apart, and not even close to 3k lbs of force is on those one foot sections because the load obviously spreads, and that the 3,000lbs car ALREADY has a frame and everything else that supports it, i think i'm ok.



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