Brake rotors are threre and diff in perf??
Brake rotors are threre and diff in perf??
So i've got about 2-3mm in meat left on my front pads therefore i want to change but i want to upgrade this, napa set up sucks! i wanted to go for hawk hps
My question pertains to rotors. i have done my search and the consensus is that for daily driving the hps pairs really well with brembo blanks. Are there similar rotors to these that doesn't cost as much lke duralast but provide an equal stop as the brembo. note duralast does provide that no hassle 2yr warranty so as soon as i get rotor warp and can swap them for new ones. i could also purchase a set up used power slots from a friend who used them for about 4-6k and he claims it isn't warped for only 60bucks/ pair. Paired with HPS does it provide a superior braking perf compared to a blank rotor with hps. What do you think guys?
thanks
tim
My question pertains to rotors. i have done my search and the consensus is that for daily driving the hps pairs really well with brembo blanks. Are there similar rotors to these that doesn't cost as much lke duralast but provide an equal stop as the brembo. note duralast does provide that no hassle 2yr warranty so as soon as i get rotor warp and can swap them for new ones. i could also purchase a set up used power slots from a friend who used them for about 4-6k and he claims it isn't warped for only 60bucks/ pair. Paired with HPS does it provide a superior braking perf compared to a blank rotor with hps. What do you think guys?
thanks
tim
Originally Posted by Nismo
Look at the cooling veins in the rotors, thats where you will see the cheapos skimp.
Yea, inbetween the rotors

top- 4th gen stillen slotted
middle- 300zx stillen x-drilled
bottom - Cobra Stang Brembo slotted
Basically cheap rotors will more likely have uneven steel hardness(temper) which can cause warping than a quality rotor. Also the balancing isnt as good
Grab some low milage stock rotors and turn them if you want to save money then throw on the Hawks and that will hold you over until you want to upgrade bigger..

top- 4th gen stillen slotted
middle- 300zx stillen x-drilled
bottom - Cobra Stang Brembo slotted
Basically cheap rotors will more likely have uneven steel hardness(temper) which can cause warping than a quality rotor. Also the balancing isnt as good
Grab some low milage stock rotors and turn them if you want to save money then throw on the Hawks and that will hold you over until you want to upgrade bigger..
thanks for the input i am just concerned with daily driving for the rotors and if the pad makes more an an impact for stopping power than the rotors. If i can get these powerslots i'm sure they would look kewl but it would be nice to see if we could compare performance
1. using powerslots and hps pads to
2. oem blanks or duralst rotors with hps pads
for daily driving application. Too bad there isn't an article on that. thats why i love the org but i get mixed oppinions for this topic. Unless someone does a profound experimental trial, lol.
tim
1. using powerslots and hps pads to
2. oem blanks or duralst rotors with hps pads
for daily driving application. Too bad there isn't an article on that. thats why i love the org but i get mixed oppinions for this topic. Unless someone does a profound experimental trial, lol.
tim
Originally Posted by achebee4you
thanks for the input i am just concerned with daily driving for the rotors and if the pad makes more an an impact for stopping power than the rotors. If i can get these powerslots i'm sure they would look kewl but it would be nice to see if we could compare performance
1. using powerslots and hps pads to
2. oem blanks or duralst rotors with hps pads
for daily driving application. Too bad there isn't an article on that. thats why i love the org but i get mixed oppinions for this topic. Unless someone does a profound experimental trial, lol.
tim
1. using powerslots and hps pads to
2. oem blanks or duralst rotors with hps pads
for daily driving application. Too bad there isn't an article on that. thats why i love the org but i get mixed oppinions for this topic. Unless someone does a profound experimental trial, lol.
tim
I've owned both combinations you are asking about - there will be absolutely zero performance difference between the two. Slotted rotors are completely useless on the street - all they do is wear your brake pads down more quickly and make more brake dust. You can't turn them either.
I prefer the Ceramic pads with D/S (or even just slotted) because I do a lot of agressive city driving. I heat them up quickly an many times. I had semi metallics and OEM blanks and warped/ glazed them quickly. They were useless in 2 months. I know people don't like D/S because they say the have less area and are pointless, but with my experience, hey work better. I have 4 months on the ceramic/ D/S combination, and they work. No galzing or warping. Pedal is still strong. I know changing the fluid also helps also (another .org member suggested to me a while back, so I tried and got better pedal.)
The D/S are designed to move the moisture and/ or heat from the friction (aka gasses that people deny being there) away and out of the rotor during breaking. If those wearnt there, where the pad sits will roast from the gasses being trapped. this is why when you break them in, you stop hard at 30, then 60-both times immediately rasing your foot to let the rotor cool in the area were the pads were resting at the point of stop. The inside fins do work, but only for lighter braking. Some people can utilize this mediocre design, but us leadfoots cannot. It overloads the heat exchange capacity of the OEM design.
Lastly: Mine for all 4 were $100 shipped and were zinc coated. A plus for high salt/ snow areas when you show your car off and have exposing rims- there isn't a big 'Rust Ball' behind your wheel. Just a little OCD touch. OEM would have been over $100 and parts store brands - which have even less cooling fins on the inside for reduced production price - would have been the same price give or take a couple. Pads last me (on the last cars I owned with d/s) for a year. That is how long brake pads have lasted me no matter what the rotor setup - material amount wise. Plus just get pads from local parts store. Their performance brands work just as good, and have lifetime warranty. So also just swap them out after buying the initial set.
Edit: I worked at parts stores for 10 years (that is why I am in college now-jokes on me), I have turned them many times an a lathe. Aammco units to be exact.
The D/S are designed to move the moisture and/ or heat from the friction (aka gasses that people deny being there) away and out of the rotor during breaking. If those wearnt there, where the pad sits will roast from the gasses being trapped. this is why when you break them in, you stop hard at 30, then 60-both times immediately rasing your foot to let the rotor cool in the area were the pads were resting at the point of stop. The inside fins do work, but only for lighter braking. Some people can utilize this mediocre design, but us leadfoots cannot. It overloads the heat exchange capacity of the OEM design.
Lastly: Mine for all 4 were $100 shipped and were zinc coated. A plus for high salt/ snow areas when you show your car off and have exposing rims- there isn't a big 'Rust Ball' behind your wheel. Just a little OCD touch. OEM would have been over $100 and parts store brands - which have even less cooling fins on the inside for reduced production price - would have been the same price give or take a couple. Pads last me (on the last cars I owned with d/s) for a year. That is how long brake pads have lasted me no matter what the rotor setup - material amount wise. Plus just get pads from local parts store. Their performance brands work just as good, and have lifetime warranty. So also just swap them out after buying the initial set.
Edit: I worked at parts stores for 10 years (that is why I am in college now-jokes on me), I have turned them many times an a lathe. Aammco units to be exact.
Originally Posted by alcatranz518
The D/S are designed to move the moisture and/ or heat from the friction (aka gasses that people deny being there) away and out of the rotor during breaking. If those wearnt there, where the pad sits will roast from the gasses being trapped. this is why when you break them in, you stop hard at 30, then 60-both times immediately rasing your foot to let the rotor cool in the area were the pads were resting at the point of stop. The inside fins do work, but only for lighter braking. Some people can utilize this mediocre design, but us leadfoots cannot. It overloads the heat exchange capacity of the OEM design.
well i've decided to go to buy my firend used powerslots with 5k on em for 60/pair that seems the be the cheapest route and pwperslots look pretty too, lol so it powerslots with hps total cost $123. i hope it will out perform the current cheap napa pads and oem warped rotors.
Tim
Tim
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Are you saying that OEM style rotors can only handle lighter braking and that you need drilled or slotted for more aggressive driving?
Edit: The ceramic pads provide minimal brake dust as well. With semi-metallics, I would have to clean my wheels daily, or they would literally be black in 2-3 days. With my ceramics I can go a week and still no 'visible' brake dust.
well i just installed and bedded the stillen slotted rotors and hawk hps pads. man the performance is night and day compared to that napa crap that was on there. my max stops better then my gf new camry with abs and my 99 sel doesn't have abs... world of diff thanks fellow orgers.
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