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PR intake installed(opinions/feedback needed)

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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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PR intake installed(opinions/feedback needed)

I just installed the intake and it was a pita for me. First I didn't have the proper tools to cut the hole. The main thing that I'm concerned about is the the path from the throttle to the filter is not looking straight. The only possible adjustment will probably to cut the hole larger and more to the left(towards the throttle body). Also, the tubing didn't line up to well either. Might just go to autozone and get some tubing that is the same gauge.

Let me know what I should do or if anything else needs to be done.

for the alignment of the intake:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/613813/9

the orientation of the hole:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/613813/8
Old Jun 2, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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that looks good to me.
Old Jun 2, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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You'll be fine.
Old Jun 2, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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the had parts were:

1)sliding the coupler over the MAF. I didn't know that you had to first take the oem coupler off the MAF before sliding the PR intake on the MAF. This baffled me for 2 hours.

2)cutting the damn hole. I wanted to use the circular saw that was the same diameter as the hole but that one piece costs 40 bucks plus you had to buy the adapter. In hind sight....it might have been worth the money.

3)the AMB sensor did not fit the holes in the back of the tubing! I couldn't even screw the damn screws and lock the plate because there was not enough thread. had to dremel the holes larger so the sensor would fit into the pipe and to have enough thread.

PITA or just my non mechanic skills?
Old Jun 2, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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Experience from actually DIY is priceless.
Old Jun 2, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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yeah the PR intake install is a pita..but its well worth it get the tubing and your good to go
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 09:27 AM
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"1)sliding the coupler over the MAF. I didn't know that you had to first take the oem coupler off the MAF before sliding the PR intake on the MAF. This baffled me for 2 hours."


explain this part because i am going to install my cold air intake tomorrow when i get a day off work

so far i have had the ram air intake for about 3 months on and the peices i have left are the coupling that narrows and the curved pipe. I have been looking around latley wondering which pipe the narrowing one goes on and could not figure it out. In pictures it showed it going on the maff but when i tried that it was so damn small that it fit inside the maf tubing which didint seem right to me so plz explain this as i am totaly confused

thanx
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 10:18 AM
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"1)sliding the coupler over the MAF. I didn't know that you had to first take the oem coupler off the MAF before sliding the PR COUPLER on the MAF. This baffled me for 2 hours."

there is this rubber squishy thing that is on one side of the MAF. Take it off and slide the intake coupler on.
this is the source of the fustration.:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/613813/10

"...... and the peices i have left are the coupling that narrows and the curved pipe. I have been looking around latley wondering which pipe the narrowing one goes on and could not figure it out.

I'm not quite sure what you mean. You mean all you have is the lower pipe that goes through the fender? Coupling that narrows?
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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sorry i realy didint know how to explain this



in this picture see the 3 blue rubber tubes to conect the metal ones to prevent air leaks

the narrowing one is the one im confused on because i am not sure how it goes on seeing as its 2 narrow to fit on any of the tubes/maf/throttle plate opening
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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the smallest/narrow one is the one that goes on the smallest pipe. Once you get it on the pipe, take the oem coupler off the MAF and slide it in the coupler. The smallest/narrow one that connects to the smallest pipe is going to be a pain to slide the coupler over. Mine came with the coupler already attached to the pipe, thank goodness.

Just like the picture above showing it put together, excpet the MAF is inbetween.

good luck sliding the smaller/narrow coupler over the pipe.
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 11:57 AM
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The narrowing connector is the one between the TB and midpipe. The TB diameter is smaller than the intake tubing so the stepped connector is required.
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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ok thanx alot ppl i had thought it was the tb seing as it was a tinny bit smaller but i tired putting it on and i ended up slipping and banging my knuckles and gave up

i geuss ill give it another go
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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RIPTIDER, I have a few questions for you. I've had a PR-style CAI for almost a year now and only ever put the short ram tubing on my car (kept telling myself "I'll get to it soon" and never have). I'm finally about ready to put it on and would like to ask you how you went about making the hole. I've found found templates online, but they don't ever seem to be the proper size (the image is scaled down) and things like that. Did you use one and could I possibly see it? Also, to make the hole, did you simply draw the circle and cut it out by drilling holes around the perimeter and then punching it out? I was thinking of doing mine this way and then grinding down the edge to get rid of the sharp jagged areas.

NMexMAX, before you even say anything, the CAI tubing is going on at the same time I replace the aftermarket midpipe with my stock pieces that have been collecting dust in the basement
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 01:32 PM
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How is this hard for anyone?.. I always think to myself I must just really like cars or be more mechanically inclined. First time took me like an hour because I used a dremel and it was easy just time consuming.

Next time used a hole saw and it took 15 mins until the hood closed.


Old Jun 3, 2007 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Apparition
How is this hard for anyone?
Do you wanna fight?
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 02:40 PM
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those blue things are silicone couplers. look the install looks okay to me. you might be concerned with it cosmetically, but as long as everything is on tight just go with it until you have time to make it perfect if thats what you are aiming for. good job !
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 03:42 PM
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ok so i just did it

took me about 40 min

most of which was getting the right tools and plugging in my battery again every 5 min to get somthing from the trunk cuz thats where i keep my tools LOL

i realy dont think 15 min it could be done

but yeah its not as hard as it looks and i got it done alot easier this time around nothing realy went wrong

sounds realy sexy when reving past 3k tomorrow i try it out.. it just started to rain here so i think imma wait it out
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by garyrr
most of which was getting the right tools and plugging in my battery again every 5 min to get somthing from the trunk cuz thats where i keep my tools LOL
You don't have a key? How do you drive your car?
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Tatanko
Do you wanna fight?
No, I already feel bad enough that you have an auto
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 05:23 PM
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The tubing isn't going to be 100% straight, it bugged the hell out of me but with the positioning of the fuse box and the battery, it simply won't work. The best you can do is play with the coupling lengths, to get a good little curve so it almost looks straight.

Next, I'm not sure if you did or not, but get a gasket for that hole so you don't scratch the living s*** out of your pipe. Also the hole template is a wee bit bigger than the pipe is to accommodate a gasket. And if you don't put one in, you may experience being able to hear and even feel the intake move in the low gears from the sudden motion
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 05:35 PM
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wow i feel dumb... i never even thought to use a key
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Apparition
No, I already feel bad enough that you have an auto
So give me your 5-speed
Originally Posted by garyrr
wow i feel dumb... i never even thought to use a key
Happens to the best of us. It's right up there with accidentally pushing your window lock button and then wondering why none of your windows will go up or down
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Neo Raven456
The tubing isn't going to be 100% straight, it bugged the hell out of me but with the positioning of the fuse box and the battery, it simply won't work. The best you can do is play with the coupling lengths, to get a good little curve so it almost looks straight.

Next, I'm not sure if you did or not, but get a gasket for that hole so you don't scratch the living s*** out of your pipe. Also the hole template is a wee bit bigger than the pipe is to accommodate a gasket. And if you don't put one in, you may experience being able to hear and even feel the intake move in the low gears from the sudden motion
Well that's true, at least as far as semantics.. My piping appeared 100% straight a while back, yet ever since I got around to painting my mid-pipe black I just sort of half assed the whole deal. Now, it looks a bit off.. The angle to the TB is always going to off though, that's for sure.

Another valid point is the entire positioning of the intake is solely based on where you cut the hole. The template that came with mine (PRCAI) allowed my pipe to reside in a position that makes a straight pipe possible. Not that it really matters, or that I care honestly. Are you certain you cut the hole in the correct spot?..

Plus, you must have noticed the midpipe has a bend in it, I imagine that's to help with fitment but in my case I really doubt that would ever do much.
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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so a writeup for intake install is needed.. ?
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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Neo Raven456, it fits better if you take the both plastic bottom covers off the fuse box. I don't know if that was implied but if i didn't take the bottom off the fuse box then there was no way it would have bolted up to the fender and piping would not fit.
But the position of the battery seemed fine
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Tatanko
So give me your 5-speed
Horrible comeback.

Originally Posted by Tatanko
Happens to the best of us. It's right up there with accidentally pushing your window lock button and then wondering why none of your windows will go up or down
Had a similar incident with the child lock...

And starting it up straight TB, with MAF disconnected (fuel cut is very loud with no intake tubing )...

Plus many more...
Old Jun 3, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Tatanko
So give me your 5-speed
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Horrible comeback.

lmao.. well anyways
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 05:05 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RIPTIDER
Neo Raven456, it fits better if you take the both plastic bottom covers off the fuse box. I don't know if that was implied but if i didn't take the bottom off the fuse box then there was no way it would have bolted up to the fender and piping would not fit.
But the position of the battery seemed fine
All of my plastic covers are still on and it fits alright
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 05:07 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Apparition
Well that's true, at least as far as semantics.. My piping appeared 100% straight a while back, yet ever since I got around to painting my mid-pipe black I just sort of half assed the whole deal. Now, it looks a bit off.. The angle to the TB is always going to off though, that's for sure.

Another valid point is the entire positioning of the intake is solely based on where you cut the hole. The template that came with mine (PRCAI) allowed my pipe to reside in a position that makes a straight pipe possible. Not that it really matters, or that I care honestly. Are you certain you cut the hole in the correct spot?..

Plus, you must have noticed the midpipe has a bend in it, I imagine that's to help with fitment but in my case I really doubt that would ever do much.
Yes I noticed the midpipe, the bend keeps the coupling from sitting 100% flush around the midpipe & TB. Mine was also a PRCAI, I may have cut a bit wrong but all in all it came out alright.

btw OP, for my gasket I took rubber tubing, very small gauge, filled it with Blue RTV and lined the hole with it. Instant gasket.
Old Jun 7, 2007 | 06:13 PM
  #30  
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I just kept my stock midpipe. It saved a little bit more bottom end than the smooth aftermarket one.
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