VE Vacuum Lines
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
VE Vacuum Lines - Update!!!
Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the vacuum line setup for a VE?
I took mine apart, and now it won't start, and I'm thinking I may have connected it back wrong. I guess this leads to these question:
1. Is there a specific line, or set of lines that would keep the car from starting?
2. Is there a "kit" I can buy to replace them all?
3. Could my canister be bad?
I have the FSM and I THINK I put it all back right, but there's a couple that are a little ambigious, and/or missing from the FSM diagram.
Thanks
I took mine apart, and now it won't start, and I'm thinking I may have connected it back wrong. I guess this leads to these question:
1. Is there a specific line, or set of lines that would keep the car from starting?
2. Is there a "kit" I can buy to replace them all?
3. Could my canister be bad?
I have the FSM and I THINK I put it all back right, but there's a couple that are a little ambigious, and/or missing from the FSM diagram.
Thanks
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=455500
I don't think any of the vacuum lines being off/routed wrong would cause a no start issue..not sure though..
No kit available as far as i know...
I don't think any of the vacuum lines being off/routed wrong would cause a no start issue..not sure though..
No kit available as far as i know...
The blow by lines (larger ones) can cause some problems with starting or running smoothly, dont forget the rear one. If you took off the plenum make sure you remembered to fully torque it down fully instead of just setting the bolts in there by hand, I once forgot to do this and it stalled.
1. the FSM and the sticker under the hood are what I always used to put it back together. sometimes it takes a bit of head scratching and holding your head sideways, but I always figure it out.
2. for a "kit" ?? Go to the parts store and buy about 10 ft of vacuum hose. once you figure out which goes where (or just pull them all apart and have a good ol' time!), just remove one hose at a time, cut some new stuff to length, and replace each one.
3. it's possible, but I don't think its your problem.
4. I'm going to bet your no-start has something else to do rather than your vacuum hoses. even with all the hoses unplugged or routed incorrectly (like my VE when I bought it), the car will still start and run. it idled a bit funny, but ran.
2. for a "kit" ?? Go to the parts store and buy about 10 ft of vacuum hose. once you figure out which goes where (or just pull them all apart and have a good ol' time!), just remove one hose at a time, cut some new stuff to length, and replace each one.
3. it's possible, but I don't think its your problem.
4. I'm going to bet your no-start has something else to do rather than your vacuum hoses. even with all the hoses unplugged or routed incorrectly (like my VE when I bought it), the car will still start and run. it idled a bit funny, but ran.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
4. I'm going to bet your no-start has something else to do rather than your vacuum hoses. even with all the hoses unplugged or routed incorrectly (like my VE when I bought it), the car will still start and run it idled a bit funny, but ran.
I was thinking the starter, but:
1. I've replaced it before (3 years ago)
2. I had no issues with it before now.
More background:
I push-started it 2 weeks ago, it hadn't been driven or started for 6 months before that. I push started it and drove it for about 5 minutes in the neighborhood. But again...below 2000 RPM it shuts off.
I just put on a new water pump, changed the Knock Sensor harness, and many of the hoses, and all the belts.
Also, I have noticed that the ECU fuse has blown twice since I've put it back together.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by mikekantor
The blow by lines (larger ones) can cause some problems with starting or running smoothly, dont forget the rear one. If you took off the plenum make sure you remembered to fully torque it down fully instead of just setting the bolts in there by hand, I once forgot to do this and it stalled.
Thanks. I'll replace all the lines one by one and then check the bolts on the plenum as well.
Yeah its not your starter, but if you keep cranking without starting then the battery will dip and the starter will just click rapidly eventually which may make it seem like it has a problem.
If you have to resort to push-starting as a way to check your work, then you know its not going well anyway so theres no point in to even bother. If you have another car available, just keep it handy to jump start when you want to give it a shot, but you need to start from your own starter.
My honest opinion: your ECU is fried, especially if it keeps blowing fuses. Blowing a fuse is not just some random problem, it means you are getting a high current that shouldnt be there and is unsafe. I had very similar issues with a 92 Mits. Galant, it turned out that the ECU had problems. That car ran fine after an ECU replacement. Some people here will chime in to tell you that its unlikely and rare to have a bad ECU, but it seems to fit the issues you're having.
If you have to resort to push-starting as a way to check your work, then you know its not going well anyway so theres no point in to even bother. If you have another car available, just keep it handy to jump start when you want to give it a shot, but you need to start from your own starter.
My honest opinion: your ECU is fried, especially if it keeps blowing fuses. Blowing a fuse is not just some random problem, it means you are getting a high current that shouldnt be there and is unsafe. I had very similar issues with a 92 Mits. Galant, it turned out that the ECU had problems. That car ran fine after an ECU replacement. Some people here will chime in to tell you that its unlikely and rare to have a bad ECU, but it seems to fit the issues you're having.
Originally Posted by blackandwhite
Also, I have noticed that the ECU fuse has blown twice since I've put it back together.
Reference thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=280554
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by mikekantor
If you have to resort to push-starting as a way to check your work, then you know its not going well anyway so theres no point in to even bother. If you have another car available, just keep it handy to jump start when you want to give it a shot, but you need to start from your own starter.
Originally Posted by mikekantor
My honest opinion: your ECU is fried, especially if it keeps blowing fuses. Blowing a fuse is not just some random problem, it means you are getting a high current that shouldnt be there and is unsafe. I had very similar issues with a 92 Mits. Galant, it turned out that the ECU had problems. That car ran fine after an ECU replacement. Some people here will chime in to tell you that its unlikely and rare to have a bad ECU, but it seems to fit the issues you're having.
I think that I grounded everything well, but I may have an electrical probelm with the VTC solenoid plug. An oil leak at the solenoid has all but destoryed the connector and I think that may be causing my electrical issues. I've attempted to clean it up and reconnect it, and it seemed to be working before, but I don't know.
If I run the car with the soleniod unplugged, am I doing anything bad?
I'll see if I can't find an ECU to swap to test once I get one.
Matt,
You wouldn't happen to have one, or know where I can get one?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by mikekantor
Forgot to ask, when it runs do you hear the actual noise of rushing air? A vacuum leak will sound like one, imagine the noise of air coming out of a tire, but louder.
I DO however hear a faint, unfamiliar clicking sound when I attempt to start. Initially, THIS is why I thought it might be the starter, but it I remember the starter clicking sound, and this clicking is much more faint and appears to be coming from the right side (passenger) as opposed to the left, where the starter is.
The starter is an autozone replacement with a warranty so today, I may just pull it have them test it, and replace it if it's bad.
the ECU blowing fuses is a BIG red flag.
I'm going to lean more towards a wiring issue somewhere near the work you've done. ECU failure is uncommon but possible. I've seen it happen before, especially on cars that sit a long time. in your case, I'm going to suspect a pinched/loose/cut wire somewhere in the harness or connectors.
edit... loaded the thread an hour ago and just now saw more responses....
I do have a spare stock ECU, but I'm wary of just plugging it in and hoping to fix the problem. I would attempt to unplug and clean up the VTC connectors first. if the problem started after you fiddled with them, I'd start there first. remove the ground that you put on it and simply unplug the solenoids. see what happens and go from there.
I'm going to lean more towards a wiring issue somewhere near the work you've done. ECU failure is uncommon but possible. I've seen it happen before, especially on cars that sit a long time. in your case, I'm going to suspect a pinched/loose/cut wire somewhere in the harness or connectors.
edit... loaded the thread an hour ago and just now saw more responses....
I do have a spare stock ECU, but I'm wary of just plugging it in and hoping to fix the problem. I would attempt to unplug and clean up the VTC connectors first. if the problem started after you fiddled with them, I'd start there first. remove the ground that you put on it and simply unplug the solenoids. see what happens and go from there.
I know my responce will be a little different from all the others but when I changed my valve cover gaskets ect.. I kinda forgot to plug in the IACV (well I didnt forget but from a top view it looked plugged in cuz the hose was over the tube) that didnt let the car start at all. Did you make sure all your hoses are plugged right?
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
that could very well be it also. especially if it won't idle below 2000rpm. once you get above that, the IACV shuts off. could be a culprit.
My guess is the ecu takes over with a safe mode dummy setting when the iacv is unplugged...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
the ECU blowing fuses is a BIG red flag.
I'm going to lean more towards a wiring issue somewhere near the work you've done. ECU failure is uncommon but possible. I've seen it happen before, especially on cars that sit a long time. in your case, I'm going to suspect a pinched/loose/cut wire somewhere in the harness or connectors.
I'm going to lean more towards a wiring issue somewhere near the work you've done. ECU failure is uncommon but possible. I've seen it happen before, especially on cars that sit a long time. in your case, I'm going to suspect a pinched/loose/cut wire somewhere in the harness or connectors.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
I do have a spare stock ECU, but I'm wary of just plugging it in and hoping to fix the problem. I would attempt to unplug and clean up the VTC connectors first. if the problem started after you fiddled with them, I'd start there first. remove the ground that you put on it and simply unplug the solenoids. see what happens and go from there.
Do you have any spare VTC connectors?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by mikekantor
I dont know if you did or not, but in the future its a good precaution to unplug the negative battery cable before working on most systems.
The enitre battery was removed.
Originally Posted by blackandwhite
The probelm didn't really "start" there. I just had that fuse blow once before, just have fiddling with it...just touching it, with the engine off. This was a LONG time ago, and hadn't had any probelms with the fuse since then.
Do you have any spare VTC connectors?
Do you have any spare VTC connectors?
I don't have any VTC connectors.. no spare wiring stuff for the car, so wouldn't do any good to even look. now if you needed solenoids, I might have one or two... nope.. strike that.. mine are leaking too.. I would have replaced them during the engine rebuild if I had some.. sorry. :shrug:
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Okay...I push started it again this weekend.
After unplugging the VTC solenoids, I did notice that the ECU fuse stayed intact.
I checked the vacuum lines and again, I THINK they are okay but drivability is still bad.
It still won't start on it's own, but when push started, I noticed the following:
It struggled to get to 3000 RPM, but once it got there, the car acted normal, like nothing was wrong.
I noticed that after driving it for 5-10 minutes, that I had regained some vacuum (pressure).
Is there a vacuum line that would directly affect starting this way? Or one that would affect performance at less than 3000 RPM? Could my problem be a vacuum-driven component (like a solenoid or something) as opposed to the vacuum lines themselves?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
After unplugging the VTC solenoids, I did notice that the ECU fuse stayed intact.
I checked the vacuum lines and again, I THINK they are okay but drivability is still bad.
It still won't start on it's own, but when push started, I noticed the following:
It struggled to get to 3000 RPM, but once it got there, the car acted normal, like nothing was wrong.
I noticed that after driving it for 5-10 minutes, that I had regained some vacuum (pressure).
Is there a vacuum line that would directly affect starting this way? Or one that would affect performance at less than 3000 RPM? Could my problem be a vacuum-driven component (like a solenoid or something) as opposed to the vacuum lines themselves?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Originally Posted by blackandwhite
Okay...I push started it again this weekend.
After unplugging the VTC solenoids, I did notice that the ECU fuse stayed intact.
I checked the vacuum lines and again, I THINK they are okay but drivability is still bad.
It still won't start on it's own, but when push started, I noticed the following:
It struggled to get to 3000 RPM, but once it got there, the car acted normal, like nothing was wrong.
I noticed that after driving it for 5-10 minutes, that I had regained some vacuum (pressure).
Is there a vacuum line that would directly affect starting this way? Or one that would affect performance at less than 3000 RPM? Could my problem be a vacuum-driven component (like a solenoid or something) as opposed to the vacuum lines themselves?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
After unplugging the VTC solenoids, I did notice that the ECU fuse stayed intact.
I checked the vacuum lines and again, I THINK they are okay but drivability is still bad.
It still won't start on it's own, but when push started, I noticed the following:
It struggled to get to 3000 RPM, but once it got there, the car acted normal, like nothing was wrong.
I noticed that after driving it for 5-10 minutes, that I had regained some vacuum (pressure).
Is there a vacuum line that would directly affect starting this way? Or one that would affect performance at less than 3000 RPM? Could my problem be a vacuum-driven component (like a solenoid or something) as opposed to the vacuum lines themselves?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Do you have your vtc's grounded?
I DID have them grounded, but leaking oil from the solenoids destroyed my connectors. I tried to rig up new ones using stuff from radio shack, and it worked for a while, but eventually the oil killed those too.
I REALLY need new solenoids AND the connectors to fix that. COuld this be contributing to my starting/low RPM problem?
Originally Posted by blackandwhite
I DID have them grounded, but leaking oil from the solenoids destroyed my connectors. I tried to rig up new ones using stuff from radio shack, and it worked for a while, but eventually the oil killed those too.
I REALLY need new solenoids AND the connectors to fix that. COuld this be contributing to my starting/low RPM problem?
I REALLY need new solenoids AND the connectors to fix that. COuld this be contributing to my starting/low RPM problem?
I dunno dude,it kinda sounds like you may have wired the vtcs up incorrectly,not sure though,just a shot in the dark(pictures of your wiring job might help us out
)You could stop by a local junkyard and cut some vtc plugs off a junk maxima,or check the classifieds section here for someone parting out a ve maxima..
As far as your starting issue is concerned,did you ever have the starter tested yet? if not you should...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
I dunno dude,it kinda sounds like you may have wired the vtcs up incorrectly,not sure though,just a shot in the dark(pictures of your wiring job might help us out
)
You could stop by a local junkyard and cut some vtc plugs off a junk maxima,or check the classifieds section here for someone parting out a ve maxima..
As far as your starting issue is concerned,did you ever have the starter tested yet? if not you should...
)You could stop by a local junkyard and cut some vtc plugs off a junk maxima,or check the classifieds section here for someone parting out a ve maxima..
As far as your starting issue is concerned,did you ever have the starter tested yet? if not you should...
I'll look at the starter, and again at the IACV
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,356
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by mooze
you couldve just used the original wires from the vtc solenoid.
Yeah, I could have, and I DID, until the oil leak destroyed the connector (see rest of THIS thread, beyond picture)
Originally Posted by internetautomar
The description says its based on the VG30DE....did it mean VG30E?
Originally Posted by internetautomar
The description says its based on the VG30DE....did it mean VG30E?



