Ripped steering rack boot, now what?
Ripped steering rack boot, now what?
So I did my timing belt today and I noticed that the boot on the end of the passenger side steering rack is ripped, is this something that can be replaced easily or is it a "wait til it fails and change the whole thing" problem?
Originally Posted by TWINTRBO
So I did my timing belt today and I noticed that the boot on the end of the passenger side steering rack is ripped, is this something that can be replaced easily or is it a "wait til it fails and change the whole thing" problem?
Inner or outer? My outer boot split and I just picked up a universal replacement from Advanced. The rack is a costly replacement so I would say fix the boot, its much easier and less money than the rack.
Originally Posted by TWINTRBO
So I did my timing belt today and I noticed that the boot on the end of the passenger side steering rack is ripped, is this something that can be replaced easily or is it a "wait til it fails and change the whole thing" problem?
IMO - if one boot has gone the other is close - get both boots and take the vehicle to a wheel alignment shop - I had mine replaced free while they did a wheel alignment on the vehicle.
Replaced free?! Either you payed a fortune for the alignment, you know the mechanic personally or you dont live in the US! lol The car is in a need of an alignment since I changed a CV axle last week, guess I should plan on getting dirty again! I asked on my other post but can an SE exhaust fit on a GXE?
Yes.. stock exhausts for both GXE and SE are the same except for the muffler.
exhaust manifolds are different, but everything else is the same if you're talking about stock parts. aftermarket Y pipe is different for VE and VG and 5spd though.
replacing those rack boots takes literally 5 minutes once the car is on the alignment rack. just remove the tie rod end, slide the old boot pieces off, slide the new one on, wrap the wire tie around it, then put the tie rod end back on. then align the car.
and yes, replace both boots while you're in there. they're not expensive, and if one is out, the other isn't far behind.
exhaust manifolds are different, but everything else is the same if you're talking about stock parts. aftermarket Y pipe is different for VE and VG and 5spd though.
replacing those rack boots takes literally 5 minutes once the car is on the alignment rack. just remove the tie rod end, slide the old boot pieces off, slide the new one on, wrap the wire tie around it, then put the tie rod end back on. then align the car.
and yes, replace both boots while you're in there. they're not expensive, and if one is out, the other isn't far behind.
Originally Posted by 93VE30DE
just changed mine - $10 each from the dealer. Special Order though! Don't use universal split boots, a nightmare to install and they don't last very long.
good deal. i just talked to the stealership up here they want $40 a side for the outer boots. Canadian $, but still... guess i'll investigate the universal boots
yeah man too my whole rack is shot . my right wheel is straight as a board and my left wheel looks like the steering is turn to the left 250. for the rack with a 110 core charge
so i guess im feelin the pain as well..... i'll crack open a cold one for us
so i guess im feelin the pain as well..... i'll crack open a cold one for us
FWIW it was a really simple job as people said, was in there for the other side axle anyway. Slipped it right in and got the alignment done. Rides nice now! That alignment was wacked!
Last edited by TWINTRBO; Nov 9, 2007 at 11:44 AM.
if when it's cold the rack makes a squeaking sound when you move the steering wheel (does not squeak through entire travel, just for a brief moment when motion is commenced)
what does that mean for me? my driver-side boot is torn wide open meaning my tie rod is jutting out when the wheels are turned to the right.
when engine/psfulid warms up, sound stops
what does that mean for me? my driver-side boot is torn wide open meaning my tie rod is jutting out when the wheels are turned to the right.
when engine/psfulid warms up, sound stops
It might not even be the rack squeaking, in fact I doubt it is. There are many parts to check out before you get to that conclusion that its the rack. For example, and in order:
1. Ball Joints
2. Outer Tie Rod Ends
3. Upper Strut Mounts
4. Steering Column Joints
I doubt its trapped air since how would it get there in the first place if you didn't take it apart and even then it recirculates fluid all the time, unlikely it would stay there forever. Even more to the point, how does air make a creaking sound?
1. Ball Joints
2. Outer Tie Rod Ends
3. Upper Strut Mounts
4. Steering Column Joints
I doubt its trapped air since how would it get there in the first place if you didn't take it apart and even then it recirculates fluid all the time, unlikely it would stay there forever. Even more to the point, how does air make a creaking sound?
Well I can see where the confusion happened, that is not how a hydraulic system works. You can visualize the fluid as a control rod, its fluid but all it does is push and its a special fluid that will not compress under pressure, which is why you cant use engine oil for brake fluid. An air bubble would compress, thus creating a spongy feeling in brakes or, in a steering rack I guess it could cause play in the steering without much happening at the wheels. This is why you need to bleed your brakes every once in a while, it picks up water and water compresses making your pedal feel spongy. This is also why stainless brake lines are nice, they dont expand like rubber does and also helps your brake feel.
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