SOS - Where is cylinder 4? ... cylinder 4 mis-fire (0605)
SOS - Where is cylinder 4? ... cylinder 4 mis-fire (0605)
Well, I thought myself saving a buck when I decided to go in and swap out my spark plugs. I had done it before on other autos, should be straightforward on the Maxima. Found Platinum NGK's for 2.99 at Kragen and I was off.
First off, note that my car had recently switched in an instant to running rough, mis-firing. My thought was to swap out the spark plugs as a first attempt to fix the problem.
It took a little bit of sweat and effort, but the old plugs came out and the new ones went in.
However, now my car is throwing a code. 0605 which translates as cylinder 4 misfire. My problem, I have not idea which is cylinder 4 on a 99 GXE maxima cali-spec. I have searched the site and visited the code-related links that I could find.
## Can someone share a schematic or describe how the cylinders are numbered and which spark plug I need to check?? Facing the car from the front, I have three in the front under a protector panel, three in the back.
## Also, if anyone has prior experience with this code, please share what you learned to be the problem. Maybe the spark plugs are not the issue. Coil? Vacuum leak? Other?
Thanks!!!
First off, note that my car had recently switched in an instant to running rough, mis-firing. My thought was to swap out the spark plugs as a first attempt to fix the problem.
It took a little bit of sweat and effort, but the old plugs came out and the new ones went in.
However, now my car is throwing a code. 0605 which translates as cylinder 4 misfire. My problem, I have not idea which is cylinder 4 on a 99 GXE maxima cali-spec. I have searched the site and visited the code-related links that I could find.
## Can someone share a schematic or describe how the cylinders are numbered and which spark plug I need to check?? Facing the car from the front, I have three in the front under a protector panel, three in the back.
## Also, if anyone has prior experience with this code, please share what you learned to be the problem. Maybe the spark plugs are not the issue. Coil? Vacuum leak? Other?
Thanks!!!
when looking from the front of the car:
1 3 5 (in the back)
2 4 6 (under the cover)
you've got a 99, so it's probably a bad coil. since you switched the plugs, leave those alone (check to make sure they're gapped correctly if you want to be super thorough), but swap the coil in the bad cylinder with another one in the front bank. check for codes again and see if the cylinder code given is where you moved that first coil. if you get the new code, replace that coil with a new one for ~$75.
1 3 5 (in the back)
2 4 6 (under the cover)
you've got a 99, so it's probably a bad coil. since you switched the plugs, leave those alone (check to make sure they're gapped correctly if you want to be super thorough), but swap the coil in the bad cylinder with another one in the front bank. check for codes again and see if the cylinder code given is where you moved that first coil. if you get the new code, replace that coil with a new one for ~$75.
Thanks, HappyScappy.
Short of asking for help via maxima.org, how does the avg bear figure out the cylinder numbering/locaitons? I could not find the info provided by HappyScrappy in my owner's manual. Also, not in my Haynes Repair Manual.
Very good insight on how to test if I have a bad coil. Excellent. I will do that.
Am I correct in believing that a coil is not something one would buy as an after-market part and rather the only source would be a dealership? If available after-market, are they of an adequate quality? (I had a bad experience once with a Pep Boys spark plug wire; very poor insulation compared to the OEM part.)
Thanks, in advance, to anyone who can provide helpful input.
Short of asking for help via maxima.org, how does the avg bear figure out the cylinder numbering/locaitons? I could not find the info provided by HappyScrappy in my owner's manual. Also, not in my Haynes Repair Manual.
Very good insight on how to test if I have a bad coil. Excellent. I will do that.
Am I correct in believing that a coil is not something one would buy as an after-market part and rather the only source would be a dealership? If available after-market, are they of an adequate quality? (I had a bad experience once with a Pep Boys spark plug wire; very poor insulation compared to the OEM part.)
Thanks, in advance, to anyone who can provide helpful input.
Thanks, all. You were right about ...
... the cylinder diagram in the Haynes
... the coil being the likely culprit. I pulled it out this afternoon and tested the resistance with my mulimeter following the testing instructions in the Haynes manual. It has gone bad. Though I am tempted by the offer to pick up a set of 6 used coils with 60K miles on them, I am currently leaning toward buying new to ensure optimal performance and avoid another coil issue in 10-20,000 miles.
By the way, I did not gap my spark plugs. The instructions on the NGK platinum box warned against this to avoid damaging the tip.
Essentially, the case is closed. Only open item is getting my hands on a low cost new coil. Considered going with a Borg Warner from Pep Boys for $60, but waved off when I realized that I likely can get an OEM part for about the same price, possibly less.
... the cylinder diagram in the Haynes
... the coil being the likely culprit. I pulled it out this afternoon and tested the resistance with my mulimeter following the testing instructions in the Haynes manual. It has gone bad. Though I am tempted by the offer to pick up a set of 6 used coils with 60K miles on them, I am currently leaning toward buying new to ensure optimal performance and avoid another coil issue in 10-20,000 miles.
By the way, I did not gap my spark plugs. The instructions on the NGK platinum box warned against this to avoid damaging the tip.
Essentially, the case is closed. Only open item is getting my hands on a low cost new coil. Considered going with a Borg Warner from Pep Boys for $60, but waved off when I realized that I likely can get an OEM part for about the same price, possibly less.
i sell all 6coils because i need all of them gone and dont do individual. FYI i never instructed this man to replace all 6 coils just the one that is bad, but at that price why wouldnt you want spares just in case? and at the prics im tryin to sell them at youe better off with my deal cause 1 coil alone will cost almost 60 bucks-do the math
Call me tickled pink. I had one of those rare experiences when things just came together in the end.
I started by calling my local Nissan dealership. Priced a coil at $111 plus tax, could have gotten it for $89 with one of their 20% Saturday special for any one item in stock. Next called David B, parts guy for a dealership in Texas (888-254-6060). Very nice guys. Ended up working with someone other than Dave, but he shared that the pricing offered is the same for anyone who mentions maxima.org. $73 plus 6 shipping to Calif -- which is not bad and the shipping is offset by the potential saving on Calif taxes. Finally called Pep Boys and they had a Borg Warner in stock for $60.
I was stumped. Risk an aftermarket part but with the benefit of being able to get the part immediately; or order through the Texas dealership and pay roughly $15 more net. I wanted the darn thing fixed so I hopped in the car and headed over to Pep Boys during my lunch break. I went back and forth the entire drive. Pounded myself for being a ned and feeling I need to "optimize" every purchase; an aftermarket part should be good enough and would save me spending any more time on the topic.
HOWEVER, to my surprise/delight, I discovered that the Borg Warner part was made by Hashin in Japan and identical to the part I was replacing. In fact, there was a visible Nissan logo on the coil stem that had been partitially scratched off. Only exception is that this one carried an upgraded model number, which I think may mean it is a newer/improved version of the coil.
I marched out to the car, lifted the hood, and popped in the coil right there and then. I was just tickled AND have been code free for a 1-1/2 days.
An excellent turn of events, and a very good day.
Thanks, all, for your generous helping hands to point me in the right direction.
I started by calling my local Nissan dealership. Priced a coil at $111 plus tax, could have gotten it for $89 with one of their 20% Saturday special for any one item in stock. Next called David B, parts guy for a dealership in Texas (888-254-6060). Very nice guys. Ended up working with someone other than Dave, but he shared that the pricing offered is the same for anyone who mentions maxima.org. $73 plus 6 shipping to Calif -- which is not bad and the shipping is offset by the potential saving on Calif taxes. Finally called Pep Boys and they had a Borg Warner in stock for $60.
I was stumped. Risk an aftermarket part but with the benefit of being able to get the part immediately; or order through the Texas dealership and pay roughly $15 more net. I wanted the darn thing fixed so I hopped in the car and headed over to Pep Boys during my lunch break. I went back and forth the entire drive. Pounded myself for being a ned and feeling I need to "optimize" every purchase; an aftermarket part should be good enough and would save me spending any more time on the topic.
HOWEVER, to my surprise/delight, I discovered that the Borg Warner part was made by Hashin in Japan and identical to the part I was replacing. In fact, there was a visible Nissan logo on the coil stem that had been partitially scratched off. Only exception is that this one carried an upgraded model number, which I think may mean it is a newer/improved version of the coil.
I marched out to the car, lifted the hood, and popped in the coil right there and then. I was just tickled AND have been code free for a 1-1/2 days.
An excellent turn of events, and a very good day.
Thanks, all, for your generous helping hands to point me in the right direction.
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Hopefully its your coils and it will be solved no problem.
