I have a leak in my a/c condenser and bought a $100 replacement on ebay .. i hope its OK..can't return it once I try it..argh..

Question is.. do I have to (or should I anyway) replace the receive / dryer ? It has been open probably for 1-2 months.. If so, any recommendations on the best / cheapest one around ?

Also.. anyone have photos / step by step of the proper, easiest way , to replace the condenser (and dryer if that's the recommendation ) ?

Thanks

S

 

Yes, replace the dryer.

I don't have a writeup, except that when I tried to access my condenser for diagnosis I couldn't remove the lower cover completely. I loosened all the bolts for it but it was wedged in somehow. If you can remove that cover the condenser will be right there.

Dave

 

The mechanic did it from under the car when they replaced my dryer.

 

Oops, I was talking about the evaporator.

The condensor is the radiator thing in front. Bolts in and out, really.

Dave

 

unless the evap is leaking or broken you do not have to change that. everytime the system is opened to the air the drier should be replaced.

also if the failure is due to compressor failure you should flush the system also.

 

When I tried to charge it with R134a, there was a clear leak in the bottom corner of the condenser.. but the compressor did come on and slightly cold air was coming into the car.

I have the new condenser in hand but was looking for advice on the exact procedure .. what do I need and not need to take out to get it out and in ? Does the radiator need to be drained and pulled out to get there? Can I just take off the fans and top rubber mounts and push it inwards towards the engine ?

I was hoping not to do the dryer but the advice here is to do it..just one more thing to buy and get my wife to complain about.

S

 

Condenser is only held on by two bolts and the two A/C lines. Just remove the rubber radiator mounts on the top (leave the fans on) and just push the radiator forward. This gives you enough room to remove the condenser. I just replaced mine with one from ebay as well. It didn't take me more than 45min to an hour. I also have a replacement drier, but I haven't gotten around to installing yet. Can get drier for 20 bucks at NAPA.

 

Good news on the process to replace.. Anyone have advice on where to get the received dryer ? Courtesyparts has it for about $80.. Napa or something like that going to be just fine ?

Anything else I should know before trying to do the condenser (and dryer perhaps ) ? Are there any orings or things I need to get in addition to the parts ? The condenser came with NOTHING but itself.

Thanks

 

My A/C went out, in exactly the same way as yours, I am glad to hear replacement sounds that easy.

I am subscribing......

vtkahns...when are you planning to do the replacement?

 

I might try it this weekend..after I get my exhaust situation quieted down.

But.. since the recomendation is to replace the drier as well, I don't have one yet and was looking for advice on an adequate one to get vs the $80 nissan part.

S

 

Get the 20 dollar one. It's just a metal cylinder with moisture absorbing media.

 

I am still up against doing a condenser replacement (which i have). I have ordered a $20ish napa receiver / dryer (there is a sensor plugged into the drier as well? is that to sense pressure to tell if the compressor can turn on ??) ..

I took off one connector to the condenser (the driver side one) and see the o-ring is in a groove..a.k.a. New Type per the TSB 056836.

Since my dealer was useless in helping me with the o-ring sizes required on the condensor , does someone know the right sizes to get to replace them all ?? I figured if I took them out, they could be stretched from what they were originally so I would get the wrong size that way. I need to know the size for the 2 sides of the condensor, and the receiver/drier (2 or perhaps 3 connections if the sensor has one too ) .

Any advice is appreciated.

S

 

Here are the o-ring sizes for the new type fittings:

Size 19, 16.5x2.43 p/n 92474 N8210
Size 16, 13.6x2.43, p/n 92473 N8210
Size 12, 10.9x2.43mm, p/n 92472 N8210
Size 8, 6.8x1.85mm, p/n 92471 N8210
Size 6, 4.5x1.40, p/n 92472 N8200

Size 6 is used on the expansion valve bypass tube
Size 8 is used for the condensor left side, dryer, evaporator high side.
Size 12 is used on the compressor to condensor pipe (high side port), both ends and the expansion valve
Size 16 is used on the low side tubing
Size 19 is used on the Compressor low side port

 

Just what I was after... So I am doing the condenser ( 1 8mm and 1 12mm), and probably the drier (2 8mms .. ) ...

There is a 3rd item that goes into the top of the drier.. with an electrical connector on it.. what is this and what o-ring does it have, if any?

and proud of it..

S

 

That's the triple pressure switch. It has it's own seal.

 

Own seal meaning nothing I need to get an o-ring for ?

 

Yes, but inspect the seal when you have the triple pressure switch off. On my job, I only replaced the 2 size 8 o-rings on the dryer because they were pitched. The o-rings on the compressor were not changed. I nevertheless recommend you to replace as many of the o-ring as you can. Get the OEM part if possible.

 

I am having a hard time finding a drier...no parts place has one locally.... Is there any advantage to the Nissan $77 (Courtesy) one that can justify its price ? I presume they would have on in stock so I would not have to wait..

What is the downside if I don't replace it ? Its been open for about 2 months with a small leak in the condenser corner.

For that matter.. how do I get it out ? Is there something holding it other than the 2 lines into it ?

The condenser itself looks like it will come out after the 2 10mm bolts holding it and the 2 pressure lines... Thanks to other advice here confirming that the radiator just has to be pushed out of the way and I am hoping there is enough room to pull up on the air scoop after taking its phillips out...to get the condenser out.

Then there are o-rings.. thanks to replies about the right sizes that go with each connection...Will any parts place have the right o-rings other than Nissan ? Courtesy had a few pns on the web site but not all. Are they special in some way ..as in..what are they made out of ?

I do just want to take out the old condenser and put in the new.. but don't want to waste a charge to find out its leaking or by not doing the drier, it won't dehumidify of cool well..

Looking for some opinions on what is really best here..

S

 

I bought my OEM compressor here and they have dryer:

http://www.meridianautoparts.com/index.html

Dealers only take a few days to get parts they don't have.

 

My local dealer had the dryer in stock, but not the compressor.
Jae

 

Since Meridian is in San Diego and you are in L.A., it will only take a few days even by UPS.

 

How much are compressors from Meridian ??

-matt

 

$365 plus tax, free UPS shipping.

I went thru discountacparts.com but it came from Meridian, same address:

10211 Pacific Mesa Blvd, Suite 405, San Diego, CA 92121
(800) 398-3128

This place is even cheaper but has to be checked out to see if they are for real:

http://www.autoairplus.com/category_s/3645.htm

Anybody in the Dallas area that can check them out?

 

Just to ask some questions clearly (thread started to divert ):

(1) Is there any advantage to the Nissan $77 (Courtesy) one that can justify its price ? I presume they would have on in stock so I would not have to wait..

(2) What is the downside if I don't replace it ? Its been open for about 2 months with a small leak in the condenser corner.

I do just want to take out the old condenser and put in the new.. but don't want to waste a charge to find out its leaking or by not doing the drier, it won't dehumidify or cool well..

S

 

from what i know, the drier keeps moisture out of ur system. Moisture + referigerant can become acidic and dangerous to your a/c's internal parts. Replace the drier.

 

OK.. I will try to do both.. when trying to remove the condenser tonight.. I get all the screws out.. and try to lift it up.. and the brackets on the side hang on the headlight aimers.. Is there a trick I am missing here ?

hopeful...I don't have to remove the radiator...

S

 

How did your a/c stop working? I ask because im trying to find out whats wrong with mine. When I hit auto in my car it takes a while before air starts to come out and even when it does it doesnt go all the way to full anymore unless i push it to full. And its making a wierd noise. Does that sound like the what happened to yours? The problem just started yesterday.

 

i had couple holes in my condenser for 2 years. finally got it replaced last year. didnt have to worry about dryer or anything works just as fine...

 

The interior workings of the A/C is really separated from the freon/compressor side. The fan is controlly largely by the 4 sensors:

Ambient temp sensor in the nose
Interior temp sensor in the dash (control panel)
Temp sensor in the Evaporator air stream
Sun load sensor

In your case, the sun load sensor is probably not at fault. Check the other 3 sensors using the FSM diagnostic charts.

The noise may be due to a piece of garbage in the fan box or the fan is going out.

 

VTKAHNS--->for drier and comp call Dave B 888-254-6060, as for removing condenser all u have to do is push back rad and it will slide out, very easy to do- remove 2 top nuts and ur home.

 

Im doing my compressor, and Im temped to just replace the condensor at the same time.

-matt

 

I have removed the top radiator rubber mounts...the 2 lines..and the 2 bolts holding in the condensor..and attempted to lift it out....i got up up a few inches before the side brackets on the condenser run into the headlight aimers..and gave up ... Perhaps I was not pushing the radiator in enough ?

I just called Dave in TX and ordered the drier and o-rings.. just easier to get it done.

S

 

Too bad I didn't read this thread about the dryer. My sc pulley cut into the lower pressure hose last week and my a/c leaked out. I just duct taped the opening and not use the a/c at all for a week until I had the hose replaced and the a/c recharged yesterday. I didn't see any reason for changing the dryer and the mechanic didn't tell why I should change. He just asked if I wanted to change it for $235Cdn. Got charged $130Cdn for the cleanout and recharge.

 

dangit! Tech Service Bulletin NTB98-106 says drier doesn't need to be changed for routine service. However, the drier has a life of 10 years. My car is freakin 10 years old. Grrrrr.

Jae

 

I think I'm in the right forum for this.... A few weeks ago, I started my car after doing the belts. Suddenly, the car during idle sounded loud. I rechecked some things and discovered that after I release one of the belts, the sound went away. It turned out to be the belt around the a/c compressor.

Since this was a bigger job than I forsee myself doing, I begruggingly went to a local garage. They pretty much diagnosed the same problem and is quoting me $450 for the a/c compressor and $110 for labor. They suggest that since the car is older (but still runs well) to replace the whole thing vs. just looking into a clutch kit.

In addition, I have not heard the mechanic say anything about the dryer or any o-rings and I'd like to keep my baby 'healthy'. She has 135K and I'd like to keep her for 2-3+ years (I'm a stickler for preventive maintenance + I hate car payments!).

How would I check the dryer and o-rings?

 

my AC is out and i can't remember what the mechanic said was wrong, it was something to do with the black plastic thing infront of the passenger side glove box. (inside the cabin). he said that it had corossion and is causing the gas to leak out slowly, and that it needs replacing... Im just trying to remember what he called it. i think it could have been the condenser. but im not too sure.

 

There are alot of Hacks out there calling themselves "mechanics". If the the A/C system is open for any period of time you should replace the dryer along with what ever component your replacing. Someone mentioned it in the begining and I'll say it again..... FLUSH THE SYSTEM. Once this is all done, evac & charge to the correct pressures. (freon levels)
Good luck. Do it right...Do it once.

 

What he said. The condenser is the hardest thing to flush but in your case you'll be saving some time by installing a new one instead. You'll need to book in somewhere for an evac/recharge, so only install the drier just before you go over there so it doesn't have much time to soak up moisture.
You can do all the other work yourself though.

Since flushing will remove oil from the piping, you may as well drain all remaining oil from the compressor and NOTIFY THE TECHNICIAN (sorry about caps, just stressing that it's important) to add the correct charge of PAG oil to your system before charging.

 

^You again? You keep posting like that and I'm sure your stay here will be short lived.

If you have a question I suggest starting with the stickies. Theres a thread specifically for you there.

 

While I see the "dryer" reference in the NTB98-106, not sure why it's lifetime would be "approximately" 10 years except for reasons of corrosion. And ThurzNite, "approximately" 10 years could mean 5-8years or it could mean 20. It could be the engineers answered "it should last forever" but were forced to pick a number, and 10 is what they picked.

If you had your system hooked up to a machine and evacuated of moisture before being recharged, you're most likely fine for a while.