FS:2000 SE 5spd fully loaded, many mods, vlsd and more
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,431
From: Los Angeles, CA
FS:2000 SE 5spd fully loaded, many mods, vlsd and more
2000 Nissan Maxima SE 5spd fully loaded (meridian package) power heated leather seats, power moonroof, auto climate control, ac just recharged, I am about to replace the plugs with brand new NGK iridium IR's...all fluids have only about 6K-10K miles on them; except for the oil, that is changed religiously every 3K miles with only mobil 1 supersyn 10w30 and only nissan oem filters. Car has about 48,500 miles on it and is maintained immaculately by only myself and a nissan master tech only. Tranny has redline MT-90 in it-->about 3K miles on the fluid...the tranny is off a 2001 anniversary edition maxima with vlsd, it now has only about 20K miles on it (bought it with 15K) with new axles from raxles and new seals (about 3K miles on those). Car has always been garaged kept and if outside, I use my nissan oem car cover. Trunk includes split fold seating, keyless entry on key
fob, and cargo netting. Car has only seen 76 brand fuel premium (91 octane) with techron and I just recently put in redline fuel system cleaner. It also has all the usual fully loaded SE stuff, ie. fog lamps, bose single cd in dash, etc.
sterling mist color, frost/grey leather interior...
car has been waxed and washed by hand only, and only by me. It has only seen meguiars products, and I occasionally go through the wax stages in coats about twice a year. Windshield wipers are bosch replacement (the rubber blades only and have only about 6K miles on them)
Interior Mods:
-anniversary edition maxima shift ****
-anniversary edition maxima door sills
-anniversary edition maxima pedals
-350z dead pedal
-paradox chrome guage rings
-redline shifter and e-brake boots
-custom maxima short shifter
-I also have a set of frost leather power 350z seats that I was going to put in the car, but never got around to it, I can include those if interested, they would be a great upgrade to the stock ones (+$600)
-hyperwhite replace all the interior lights including the dome
Exterior mods:
-stillen front lip
-18" HP evo lighting wheels with toyo t1r 235/40/18 about 60% tread left
-VIS CF hood and nissan oem hood bra (I will include new hood locks and key as the current ones aren't installed, I also will include the stock hood of course)
-I will also have a brand new ionic dynamics oem replica CF rear spoiler if interested (+$350)
-anniversay edition maxima headlights (real ones not knock offs or ones that were painted) comes with piaa xtreme bulbs
-custom maxima chrome license plate frames front and back that simply say maxima on them
-I will also throw in a nissan oem car cover in great condition for free
-windows have a nice tint on them that is legal as you can see from my pics
-I also have a set of enkei rpf1 17x8.5's if you are interested...don't have any street tires for them, but I do have race tires (r compounds in many sizes and brands that fit those wheels) (+$800) or ($1500 with two sets of race tires inquire for details)
-I also have a set of brand new forged aluminum custom 5mm hubcentric spacers that I didn't get around to putting on that I will include for free
-paradox CF mirror covers/shells...
-CF b pillar and c pillar covers
-custom maxima clear side markers
Brakes:
-matt blehm's 12.6" 6th gen 2 piece slotted rotors (I will also include an extra set of used discs and hats) with 6th gen calipers and hawk hps pads (pads only have about 6K miles on them, the rotors only have about 3K on them), I also have a set of full race pads that I will let go with the car that are brand new (ebc yellow stuff)
-rears are oem size slotted brembo replacement rotors that have about 10k miles on them, also have hawk hps pads on them
-I use only valvoline supersyn dot 4, fluid is only about 4K miles old
-I will include my old set of used 5th gen oem rotors and calipers and pads as well if you want to go back to stock, they are in great shape as well when I pulled them off
-valvoline supersyn power steering fluid (about 4K miles on it)
-goodridge SS brake lines all around
-speed bleeders
Engine:
-removed restrictor plate from intake manifold
-bored out throttle body and oem throttle body will be included your choice of which one to use
-stillen popcharger with about 6K miles on it
-DIY oil catch can
-new pcv valve and I will include a brand new oem nissan fuel filter although it is not needed at this mileage yet
-nismo oil cap and radiator cap
-custom maxima cf engine cover
-UR crank pulley (oem will be included as well) crank seal was replaced with it with a new nissan oem one when this was installed 4-5K miles ago
-belts only have 4-5K on them as well
-cattman gen 2.5 headers
-cattman catback
-I will include the original cat and a SS straight pipe with electronically actuated exhaust cutout welded in with hidden in cabin switch made by quicktimeperformance.com (this is currently installed and the cat is boxed)
-JB welded the vias actuator cup and has been working beautifully ever since
-I also have an brand new emanage ultimate that is still boxed if you are interested (+$450)
-car dynoed at 194whp and 210wtq with the variable intake manifold broken and in 90 degree weather, I have the sheets to vouch for that, haven't dynoed since I fixed the VIAS, this is without any tuning
-radiator has redline water wetter in it
-I also will include a set of de-k heads free if you want to pursue a port and polish job that I never got around to
-stillen aluminum flywheel
-oem clutch probably has 50% life left
-I will include an exedy stage one brand new clutch if interested (+$200)
-never got around to installing the SS clutch line, I will throw that in for free
-matt blehm grounding kit
-polyurethane shifter bushing
-energy suspension polyurethane engine mounts
-energy suspension polyurethane lower subframe bushings
-stillen oil cooler
suspension:
-energy suspension polyurethane lower control arm bushings
-energy suspension polyurethane rear trailing arm bushings
-cattman/progress generation 3 coilovers
-corner weighted and balanced car by one of the best suspension/alignment guys on the west coast, it is perfectly balanced side to side and a better front rear weight distribution than stock (60/40 front rear, 50/50 side to side, and it currently weighs one hundred pounds less than stock about 3100lbs curb weight)...lower control arms are parallel to the ground to optimize suspension geometry
-progress camber bolts
-rear beam professionally bent to zero the toe
-stillen front strut tower brace
-stillen rear strut tower brace
-stillen rear sway bar
-battery relocated to trunk (great for better weight balance or those looking to put a turbo there) it's a optima red top with only about 4 or 5 months on it, so almost brand new
-stillen battery tie down
-custom made cross brace subframe connectors done by a highly respected race car prep shop on the west coast
car runs perfect, needs nothing, no repairs to date as nothing has broken.
aesthetically, the car has a minor dent in the rear right passenger door that was there when I bought it from it's original owner and a minor paint scratch in the front stillen lip that needs to be touched up. Price reflects this.
asking $14.5K
I'd prefer not to part out if possible which is why I am gauging interest here.





all the images can be viewed here:
http://jcdesign.rememberedforeverflo...ma/maxima7.jpg
http://jcdesign.rememberedforeverflo...ma/maxima5.jpg
http://jcdesign.rememberedforeverflo...ma/maxima3.jpg
http://jcdesign.rememberedforeverflo...ma/maxima2.jpg
fob, and cargo netting. Car has only seen 76 brand fuel premium (91 octane) with techron and I just recently put in redline fuel system cleaner. It also has all the usual fully loaded SE stuff, ie. fog lamps, bose single cd in dash, etc.
sterling mist color, frost/grey leather interior...
car has been waxed and washed by hand only, and only by me. It has only seen meguiars products, and I occasionally go through the wax stages in coats about twice a year. Windshield wipers are bosch replacement (the rubber blades only and have only about 6K miles on them)
Interior Mods:
-anniversary edition maxima shift ****
-anniversary edition maxima door sills
-anniversary edition maxima pedals
-350z dead pedal
-paradox chrome guage rings
-redline shifter and e-brake boots
-custom maxima short shifter
-I also have a set of frost leather power 350z seats that I was going to put in the car, but never got around to it, I can include those if interested, they would be a great upgrade to the stock ones (+$600)
-hyperwhite replace all the interior lights including the dome
Exterior mods:
-stillen front lip
-18" HP evo lighting wheels with toyo t1r 235/40/18 about 60% tread left
-VIS CF hood and nissan oem hood bra (I will include new hood locks and key as the current ones aren't installed, I also will include the stock hood of course)
-I will also have a brand new ionic dynamics oem replica CF rear spoiler if interested (+$350)
-anniversay edition maxima headlights (real ones not knock offs or ones that were painted) comes with piaa xtreme bulbs
-custom maxima chrome license plate frames front and back that simply say maxima on them
-I will also throw in a nissan oem car cover in great condition for free
-windows have a nice tint on them that is legal as you can see from my pics
-I also have a set of enkei rpf1 17x8.5's if you are interested...don't have any street tires for them, but I do have race tires (r compounds in many sizes and brands that fit those wheels) (+$800) or ($1500 with two sets of race tires inquire for details)
-I also have a set of brand new forged aluminum custom 5mm hubcentric spacers that I didn't get around to putting on that I will include for free
-paradox CF mirror covers/shells...
-CF b pillar and c pillar covers
-custom maxima clear side markers
Brakes:
-matt blehm's 12.6" 6th gen 2 piece slotted rotors (I will also include an extra set of used discs and hats) with 6th gen calipers and hawk hps pads (pads only have about 6K miles on them, the rotors only have about 3K on them), I also have a set of full race pads that I will let go with the car that are brand new (ebc yellow stuff)
-rears are oem size slotted brembo replacement rotors that have about 10k miles on them, also have hawk hps pads on them
-I use only valvoline supersyn dot 4, fluid is only about 4K miles old
-I will include my old set of used 5th gen oem rotors and calipers and pads as well if you want to go back to stock, they are in great shape as well when I pulled them off
-valvoline supersyn power steering fluid (about 4K miles on it)
-goodridge SS brake lines all around
-speed bleeders
Engine:
-removed restrictor plate from intake manifold
-bored out throttle body and oem throttle body will be included your choice of which one to use
-stillen popcharger with about 6K miles on it
-DIY oil catch can
-new pcv valve and I will include a brand new oem nissan fuel filter although it is not needed at this mileage yet
-nismo oil cap and radiator cap
-custom maxima cf engine cover
-UR crank pulley (oem will be included as well) crank seal was replaced with it with a new nissan oem one when this was installed 4-5K miles ago
-belts only have 4-5K on them as well
-cattman gen 2.5 headers
-cattman catback
-I will include the original cat and a SS straight pipe with electronically actuated exhaust cutout welded in with hidden in cabin switch made by quicktimeperformance.com (this is currently installed and the cat is boxed)
-JB welded the vias actuator cup and has been working beautifully ever since
-I also have an brand new emanage ultimate that is still boxed if you are interested (+$450)
-car dynoed at 194whp and 210wtq with the variable intake manifold broken and in 90 degree weather, I have the sheets to vouch for that, haven't dynoed since I fixed the VIAS, this is without any tuning
-radiator has redline water wetter in it
-I also will include a set of de-k heads free if you want to pursue a port and polish job that I never got around to
-stillen aluminum flywheel
-oem clutch probably has 50% life left
-I will include an exedy stage one brand new clutch if interested (+$200)
-never got around to installing the SS clutch line, I will throw that in for free
-matt blehm grounding kit
-polyurethane shifter bushing
-energy suspension polyurethane engine mounts
-energy suspension polyurethane lower subframe bushings
-stillen oil cooler
suspension:
-energy suspension polyurethane lower control arm bushings
-energy suspension polyurethane rear trailing arm bushings
-cattman/progress generation 3 coilovers
-corner weighted and balanced car by one of the best suspension/alignment guys on the west coast, it is perfectly balanced side to side and a better front rear weight distribution than stock (60/40 front rear, 50/50 side to side, and it currently weighs one hundred pounds less than stock about 3100lbs curb weight)...lower control arms are parallel to the ground to optimize suspension geometry
-progress camber bolts
-rear beam professionally bent to zero the toe
-stillen front strut tower brace
-stillen rear strut tower brace
-stillen rear sway bar
-battery relocated to trunk (great for better weight balance or those looking to put a turbo there) it's a optima red top with only about 4 or 5 months on it, so almost brand new
-stillen battery tie down
-custom made cross brace subframe connectors done by a highly respected race car prep shop on the west coast
car runs perfect, needs nothing, no repairs to date as nothing has broken.
aesthetically, the car has a minor dent in the rear right passenger door that was there when I bought it from it's original owner and a minor paint scratch in the front stillen lip that needs to be touched up. Price reflects this.
asking $14.5K
I'd prefer not to part out if possible which is why I am gauging interest here.





all the images can be viewed here:
http://jcdesign.rememberedforeverflo...ma/maxima7.jpg
http://jcdesign.rememberedforeverflo...ma/maxima5.jpg
http://jcdesign.rememberedforeverflo...ma/maxima3.jpg
http://jcdesign.rememberedforeverflo...ma/maxima2.jpg
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,431
From: Los Angeles, CA
then it's a for sale thread for now on...
I will post a price soon for the car without mods if no interest arises for the car as is...
as of right now, the price has been lowered...
I will post a price soon for the car without mods if no interest arises for the car as is...
as of right now, the price has been lowered...
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,431
From: Los Angeles, CA
this car is an autocross/road race prepped car, I guarantee it is in the top ten of all maximas ever as far as handling and balance go...yet has all the luxuries, amenities, and comfort you'd expect from a fully loaded maxima.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,431
From: Los Angeles, CA
oh sorry, I forgot to actually post the new price: $14K
if asked anyone who knew me, you'd know how much of a ocd fanatic/freak about maintaining my cars...I spare no expense and only use nissan oem new parts in addition to only letting very few highly qualified people under the hood!
if asked anyone who knew me, you'd know how much of a ocd fanatic/freak about maintaining my cars...I spare no expense and only use nissan oem new parts in addition to only letting very few highly qualified people under the hood!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,431
From: Los Angeles, CA
no one in the market? hmm...well perhaps if anyone knows anyone in the market for a maxima and would like to one day get into autocross or road racing...let them know...
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,431
From: Los Angeles, CA
I recently installed the stainless clutch line...
I am also soon going to have the rear bumper and front stillen splitter/bumper repainted as nissan's crappy paint seems to chip over time as everyone knows.
$8K absolutely firm but I take off the carbon fiber hood and cf mirror shells and keep the bored out TB...
car now has 52.5K miles and the only mechanical issue is it the progress coilovers could use a refreshening...meaning the top mounts are making noise (so perhaps a simple, cheap rebuild or just new strut bearings up front).
I am also soon going to have the rear bumper and front stillen splitter/bumper repainted as nissan's crappy paint seems to chip over time as everyone knows.
$8K absolutely firm but I take off the carbon fiber hood and cf mirror shells and keep the bored out TB...
car now has 52.5K miles and the only mechanical issue is it the progress coilovers could use a refreshening...meaning the top mounts are making noise (so perhaps a simple, cheap rebuild or just new strut bearings up front).
Last edited by michaelnyden; Oct 5, 2008 at 12:54 AM.
My insurance is only giving me 4K for my car. Bummer because I just put about 4k in parts in my car in the past 1 1/2 years. I just put in a new 5 speed, clutch, rear main seal, rebuilt front suspension, with tokiko's lowered about 1.75. I put in a y-pipe, brembo brakes, 17” wheels, took corners at twice the recommended speed +5.
How about 4k and my 91 LX Mustang, puts out a little over 300hp. Here’s a list of what I have done to it.
Brand new aluminum Eldebrock heads
cam, full roller valvetrain,
24lb fuel injectors, 70mm TB, 72mm MAS, CAI
I also have 1.6 roller rockers that you can have, right now I have 1.0 roller rockers installed.
Replaced waterpump, ignition wires cap rotor. 110L fuel pump.
Full Mac Exhaust lumacoated, 1 5/8 headers, 2.5" all the way back, no cats, I have the stock one in the rafters, you can have it so you can smog it.
I have about 5k miles on the top end and tranny
Transmission is a 4 speed auto with police clutch package, overdrive servo out of cougar xr7, and a shiftkit.
I replaced the 2.72 gears in the rear end with 3.73’s and replaced the bearings while I was at it. About 10k miles on that.
Car weighs in at 3200 lbs
I have put way more than 4k into it, just in upgrades. It’s always been garaged; it’s never been in an accident and has about 2 dings in it. The paint is in good shape. Total sleeper. Looks stock. This model mustang is hard to find. The color is Charcoal grey; I have front shocks for it, which I haven’t put in yet. I was just about to gut the suspension and rebuild it, till my kids came along. Needs new tires in the front.
This was my project car, but I have to part with it because I have 3 kids now and they are sucking up all my extra time and money. I wish I could keep it. Plus I got to many tickets in it. Ran it at the track once, and it runs high13’s in the quarter.
I bought this car from the original owner. He was a Captain in the Navy and he drove it from Texas to California many times. I put about 60k miles on it since I had it. Right now it has about 115K on it.
I would rather you have it, because you can appreciate all the work I put into it. Plus if you take it, you have to keep me up to date on what you are doing to it, I like to see this car grow.
I am meticulous about my cars, but probably not as much as you.
How about 4k and my 91 LX Mustang, puts out a little over 300hp. Here’s a list of what I have done to it.
Brand new aluminum Eldebrock heads
cam, full roller valvetrain,
24lb fuel injectors, 70mm TB, 72mm MAS, CAI
I also have 1.6 roller rockers that you can have, right now I have 1.0 roller rockers installed.
Replaced waterpump, ignition wires cap rotor. 110L fuel pump.
Full Mac Exhaust lumacoated, 1 5/8 headers, 2.5" all the way back, no cats, I have the stock one in the rafters, you can have it so you can smog it.
I have about 5k miles on the top end and tranny
Transmission is a 4 speed auto with police clutch package, overdrive servo out of cougar xr7, and a shiftkit.
I replaced the 2.72 gears in the rear end with 3.73’s and replaced the bearings while I was at it. About 10k miles on that.
Car weighs in at 3200 lbs
I have put way more than 4k into it, just in upgrades. It’s always been garaged; it’s never been in an accident and has about 2 dings in it. The paint is in good shape. Total sleeper. Looks stock. This model mustang is hard to find. The color is Charcoal grey; I have front shocks for it, which I haven’t put in yet. I was just about to gut the suspension and rebuild it, till my kids came along. Needs new tires in the front.
This was my project car, but I have to part with it because I have 3 kids now and they are sucking up all my extra time and money. I wish I could keep it. Plus I got to many tickets in it. Ran it at the track once, and it runs high13’s in the quarter.
I bought this car from the original owner. He was a Captain in the Navy and he drove it from Texas to California many times. I put about 60k miles on it since I had it. Right now it has about 115K on it.
I would rather you have it, because you can appreciate all the work I put into it. Plus if you take it, you have to keep me up to date on what you are doing to it, I like to see this car grow.
I am meticulous about my cars, but probably not as much as you.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,431
From: Los Angeles, CA
If your maxima is totalled, you usually have the option of them paying you for the car, and you take all the stock parts you have laying around and throwing those in the trunk before they haul it away, then you pull off all the still good aftermarket parts and sell them, that's what I did with my '95. But unfortunately, I am not considering any trades right now, only cash.
Sorry everyone, i have some bad news.
I bought it, and i must say that the few days i have had it it drives great.
Michael, i had it realigned 0° toe and 1.2° negative camber, car still handles great. The factory spec is .5° positive to 1.0° negative camber. The shop could not get it any closer to zero. 1.2 is all what it could give. I happy with that.
Do you want your plates? The DMV wants 40 bucks to keep them. I am going with regular plates now, maybe when i get some extra money i can put them on my car. If you dont want them, I will need to send you the form so you can release it to me. I forgot to ask, is this a one time fee? or do you have to pay the 40 bucks every year?
If i have to replace the rotors and pads, what and where can i purchase them?
I bought it, and i must say that the few days i have had it it drives great.
Michael, i had it realigned 0° toe and 1.2° negative camber, car still handles great. The factory spec is .5° positive to 1.0° negative camber. The shop could not get it any closer to zero. 1.2 is all what it could give. I happy with that.
Do you want your plates? The DMV wants 40 bucks to keep them. I am going with regular plates now, maybe when i get some extra money i can put them on my car. If you dont want them, I will need to send you the form so you can release it to me. I forgot to ask, is this a one time fee? or do you have to pay the 40 bucks every year?
If i have to replace the rotors and pads, what and where can i purchase them?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,431
From: Los Angeles, CA
well I included the stock 5th gen pads, calipers and rotors which are good condition...
The pads and rotors on there now (6th gen) should last you a good while still. I also included another set of 2 piece rotors which you could use while you send in another set to get them machined (matt blehm knows about the company, they are coleman racing and they said I can ship the rotors to them (just discs, not the hats to save money on shipping) and they would machine them pretty cheap) I trust them the most since they made the 2 piece 6th gen rotors for our car. But if you want to stay with the 6th gen brakes but not 2 piece rotors, then there are a few group deals usually on one piece 6th gen rotors or you can also pick up them at the local nissan dealership of course, including the pads but they will be a step down from the hawk hps 6th gen pads and highly specialized rotors I have on there now.
That alignment sounds good, I have the cattman/progress camber bolts on there for more adjustability. Just remember to keep those tire pressures up on those soft sidewall t1r's...
As far as the plate goes, I don't remember what the deal with that is, you might want to talk to the DMV or on their website they should have some more information...I thought it was a one time fee. If you think you want to keep them, please send me the form and I will sign it and send it back, if not, you can send them back to me.
The pads and rotors on there now (6th gen) should last you a good while still. I also included another set of 2 piece rotors which you could use while you send in another set to get them machined (matt blehm knows about the company, they are coleman racing and they said I can ship the rotors to them (just discs, not the hats to save money on shipping) and they would machine them pretty cheap) I trust them the most since they made the 2 piece 6th gen rotors for our car. But if you want to stay with the 6th gen brakes but not 2 piece rotors, then there are a few group deals usually on one piece 6th gen rotors or you can also pick up them at the local nissan dealership of course, including the pads but they will be a step down from the hawk hps 6th gen pads and highly specialized rotors I have on there now.
That alignment sounds good, I have the cattman/progress camber bolts on there for more adjustability. Just remember to keep those tire pressures up on those soft sidewall t1r's...
As far as the plate goes, I don't remember what the deal with that is, you might want to talk to the DMV or on their website they should have some more information...I thought it was a one time fee. If you think you want to keep them, please send me the form and I will sign it and send it back, if not, you can send them back to me.
8G's my friend, insurance money. Still have the mustang. Sitting in the garage. A couple more questions
Regarding the aluminum flywheel, what is the make and whats the weight?
Regarding the UDP, whats the make on that?
I like the cutout on there, i opened it up on freeway, man is it loud. How much HP is gained by using the cutout?
Regarding the aluminum flywheel, what is the make and whats the weight?
Regarding the UDP, whats the make on that?
I like the cutout on there, i opened it up on freeway, man is it loud. How much HP is gained by using the cutout?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,431
From: Los Angeles, CA
The cutout is more for sound then gains, up top there is some slight gains to be had, but torque is lost so it's good for top end runs...
Flywheel is stillen, it is 5lbs lighter than stock according to their website, so whatever that is, something like 10lbs without the ring gear, so stock must be 15 without the ring gear.
UDP is unorthodox racing, it is the new stock size one.
Flywheel is stillen, it is 5lbs lighter than stock according to their website, so whatever that is, something like 10lbs without the ring gear, so stock must be 15 without the ring gear.
UDP is unorthodox racing, it is the new stock size one.
Last edited by michaelnyden; Dec 2, 2008 at 11:21 AM.
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