just got a 96 GLE in excellent condition..got some questions
just got a 96 GLE in excellent condition..got some questions
so four days ago i bought a 1996 pearl white GLE from a nice, upstanding, rich family in southern florida for $3500. leather, cd, sunroof, everything works, all the records, everything maintained (at least cosmetically), but it has been sitting in their driveway for 6 months. the car is automatic with 141k on the engine but runs like a champ - totally silent. overall i am thrilled with my new purchase, but there are a couple of small things i would like to address.
1) on gradual acceleration (like off a light in heavy traffic) when i get to the 2000 rpm range i feel a slight (and i emphasize slight) inconsistency in the pull. its almost like its teetering between 1-2nd gear, but its obviously not cuz the lurching would be far more noticable. it just isnt maintaining a uniform speed. when you gun it from a dead stop there is absolutely no hesitation or awkwardness - its smooth as silk. its only going slow and even on very flat, new roads that i can feel this. my gut says this could be either a pinhole in the vaccum line or just a dirty fuel injector/pump. i just threw some GUMOUT in there last night (after reading the fuel injector cleaner poll) so well see how that goes. once again ill say its almost impossible to notice, but suggestions would be appreciated.
2) will the timing chain ever have to be replaced? should i even bother getting it checked? two cars before this one was a 93 maxima SE and i NEVER had a problem with it. i did the calipers/brakes and rotors myself as well as religious oil and fluid changes- nothing else was needed. i sold it with 221k.
3) so how important is it to put mid-grade or premuim gas in this car. seems like a lot of you stay with the good stuff, but in my 93 SE i did a 4 month-long experiment to see if the mid or high grade gas produced better results and i found that the low end seemed the same. i know its an extra like 4 dollars per fill, but i still feel like a sucker if im buying something that i dont need.
4) what are your thoughts on wheelskins. the leather from the wheel is coming off on my hands. i was just gonna go to target or autozone or whatever and get a 15 dollar generic one, but i figured id entertain the idea.
is it worth 50 bux?
are there any other issues i should jump right into after buying a car with such high mileage?. anything i should be looking for specifically? for now i have 49$ to my name, but in a couple of weeks ill be able to throw a grand (if neccesary) at this thing. this weekend im gonna do the oil and air filter in my driveway, but i cant afford anything else right now.
anyway, after a shi**y experience with an accord, and knowing how good my 93 SE was, ive decided im gonna be a loyal maxima user for life.
1) on gradual acceleration (like off a light in heavy traffic) when i get to the 2000 rpm range i feel a slight (and i emphasize slight) inconsistency in the pull. its almost like its teetering between 1-2nd gear, but its obviously not cuz the lurching would be far more noticable. it just isnt maintaining a uniform speed. when you gun it from a dead stop there is absolutely no hesitation or awkwardness - its smooth as silk. its only going slow and even on very flat, new roads that i can feel this. my gut says this could be either a pinhole in the vaccum line or just a dirty fuel injector/pump. i just threw some GUMOUT in there last night (after reading the fuel injector cleaner poll) so well see how that goes. once again ill say its almost impossible to notice, but suggestions would be appreciated.
2) will the timing chain ever have to be replaced? should i even bother getting it checked? two cars before this one was a 93 maxima SE and i NEVER had a problem with it. i did the calipers/brakes and rotors myself as well as religious oil and fluid changes- nothing else was needed. i sold it with 221k.
3) so how important is it to put mid-grade or premuim gas in this car. seems like a lot of you stay with the good stuff, but in my 93 SE i did a 4 month-long experiment to see if the mid or high grade gas produced better results and i found that the low end seemed the same. i know its an extra like 4 dollars per fill, but i still feel like a sucker if im buying something that i dont need.
4) what are your thoughts on wheelskins. the leather from the wheel is coming off on my hands. i was just gonna go to target or autozone or whatever and get a 15 dollar generic one, but i figured id entertain the idea.
is it worth 50 bux?
are there any other issues i should jump right into after buying a car with such high mileage?. anything i should be looking for specifically? for now i have 49$ to my name, but in a couple of weeks ill be able to throw a grand (if neccesary) at this thing. this weekend im gonna do the oil and air filter in my driveway, but i cant afford anything else right now.
anyway, after a shi**y experience with an accord, and knowing how good my 93 SE was, ive decided im gonna be a loyal maxima user for life.
Welcome to the org!
1) I would change out the fuel filter as well. Who knows how long it was last changed?
2) does it make a rattling noise?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=timing+chain
3) I'd go with what the owners manual tells you to use.
4) Entirely up to you. You could even pick up a replacement from a junk yard if you're mechanically adept at changing things.
1) I would change out the fuel filter as well. Who knows how long it was last changed?
2) does it make a rattling noise?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=timing+chain
3) I'd go with what the owners manual tells you to use.
4) Entirely up to you. You could even pick up a replacement from a junk yard if you're mechanically adept at changing things.
do the basic tune up to see if it helps on the hesitation.
if you look at most dynos i think there is a spot right around there where power is flat for a few rpms befoer the linear climb until 5.5k. that might be what you are feeling. if you get a y pipe it is a little more noticeable on dynos.
i wouldnt worry about the timing chain unless u can hear a noise comming from directly under the timing chain cover. ive read alot of stuff on the .org, timing chains problems very rarely come up.
stick with 91 octane to make full use of your engine. 87 and 89 will work, but there is chance your engine will knock and your max will run in "safe mode" which will get you less milage and less power.
some things to check for is the knock sensor. notorious for starting to go out around 150k.
starting problems, many org.ers are having starting problems. ive gone thru 2 starters in 6 years.
clean the throttle body and inside the intake manifold. it should be pretty gunky in there by now.
have fun.
if you look at most dynos i think there is a spot right around there where power is flat for a few rpms befoer the linear climb until 5.5k. that might be what you are feeling. if you get a y pipe it is a little more noticeable on dynos.
i wouldnt worry about the timing chain unless u can hear a noise comming from directly under the timing chain cover. ive read alot of stuff on the .org, timing chains problems very rarely come up.
stick with 91 octane to make full use of your engine. 87 and 89 will work, but there is chance your engine will knock and your max will run in "safe mode" which will get you less milage and less power.
some things to check for is the knock sensor. notorious for starting to go out around 150k.
starting problems, many org.ers are having starting problems. ive gone thru 2 starters in 6 years.
clean the throttle body and inside the intake manifold. it should be pretty gunky in there by now.
have fun.
I have the same problem with the wheel - my wedding ring has gouged it a few times.
I run premium. My own barely-scientific testing has proven that running 87 reduced the mpg by more than enough to negate the $$$ saving.
Basic tuneup should help with hesitation.
Timing chains don't need to be replaced unless they need to be replaced, if you know what I mean. There is no service interval like a rubber belt.
I run premium. My own barely-scientific testing has proven that running 87 reduced the mpg by more than enough to negate the $$$ saving.
Basic tuneup should help with hesitation.
Timing chains don't need to be replaced unless they need to be replaced, if you know what I mean. There is no service interval like a rubber belt.
thanks for the help.
what does a "basic tune up" consist of? wires? cap? belts? be specific please cause when i go to the mechanic i want to know exactly what too expect and what i will be getting. also, how much should that cost, ballpark figure?
what does a "basic tune up" consist of? wires? cap? belts? be specific please cause when i go to the mechanic i want to know exactly what too expect and what i will be getting. also, how much should that cost, ballpark figure?
Originally Posted by ROCKART
thanks for the help.
what does a "basic tune up" consist of? wires? cap? belts? be specific please cause when i go to the mechanic i want to know exactly what too expect and what i will be getting. also, how much should that cost, ballpark figure?
what does a "basic tune up" consist of? wires? cap? belts? be specific please cause when i go to the mechanic i want to know exactly what too expect and what i will be getting. also, how much should that cost, ballpark figure?
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=16
Originally Posted by ROCKART
3) so how important is it to put mid-grade or premuim gas in this car. seems like a lot of you stay with the good stuff, but in my 93 SE i did a 4 month-long experiment to see if the mid or high grade gas produced better results and i found that the low end seemed the same. i know its an extra like 4 dollars per fill, but i still feel like a sucker if im buying something that i dont need.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....57#post5744457
Dave
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