EDIT: added Part 1 (closed cutout) and Part 2 (open cutout) videos. Click here for Part 1 and here for Part 2.

It's been over 11 months since I've had the pleasure of hearing my car run, or driving it for that matter. Well after countless delays and frustrations (for things outside my control) I've finally been able to get the DEK built and into the car (along with everything else from the old setup, plus a couple additions). Fired it up tonight, and man was it sweet music to my ears with the cutout open in the garage. The neighbors all came over to check it out - hah. I can't wait to drop the hammer on this thing, but I gotta break in a new clutch first... doh.

Sorry I know this is kind of a useless post, but I'll post up a video in a couple days so you can hear the engine running with the cams/Cattman headers/cutout etc. I'm just stoked this evening after being without my Max for so long.

Oh and to add some technical merit, lol, I may also post up a picture of something that some 3.5 swappers using 3.0 timing stuff might be interested in - an alternative to having the cams drilled or getting adapters, if you have access to a machine shop/have one near you...

 

as long as progress gets done, its all good. congrats and keep us updated on it!

 

Great to hear, let the new times come with ease.

 

awesome, cant wait to hear it and see some new passes. GL with the break in.

 

Awsome Now It Gets Fun Again Congrats Man

 

Congrats on the build! Lets see some footage!

(And that adapter or whatever.)

 

Waiting for the lopy open cuttout vids!

 

awesome man. Cant wait to see some new times and a video!!

 

Sweet! sounds like another beast in the making. What do you think of the idea of doing cams with the engine in the bay seeing that you have done this (I know you did yours while the engine was out, but just so I get an idea when I get around to the cam swap)

 

Great to hear you have everything up and running. Interested in the cam application myself. My cams been siting around collecting dust.

 

Same, the labor has me scared as I don't know what to expect since I haven't seen any dyno's yet. Hopefully it's a bang for the buck mod.

speed, what cams are you putting in? I have VQ35DE stock cams with StephenMax's spacer/adaptors.

 

I think it's doable, just the tight space by the timing cover will be a PITA. IIRC a few here have done it though.

 

Once you take it for a good boot, let me know if you feel this mod is worth while considering costs. Did you change valve springs as well?

 

I've changed a lot of things since my last dyno 2 years ago, so there's no way I can isolate the cams now, and it's been so long since I drove the car the butt dyno's useless.. lol

Yes I changed the springs. But if you're using stock 3.5 cams and not revving past 7200 you're probably ok with the DEK valve springs.

 

I have the same cams. Don't have the cam adapter yet though. I found mine for $100.00. But like you said. I'm just worried about messing them up.

 

What do you mean by messing them up?

 

You're Backkkkkkkkkkk !! Good news for all of us...

Let us know about your new twist on cam adapters, plz.


Now I need to get off my lazy azzz and install my cammed 3.5....

 

thas great to see that speed machine running, keep up the good work

 

I mean doing a crappy job and I can't drive the car. Its my DD that's why. Plus I'm waiting to get a crib and house first. Can't really do this in grand ma's driveway.

 

you got any sound clips of what it sounds like yet. i would love to hear a built and cammed VQ30.

 

wow, i need to find me some cams for $100

 

They're stock, so, that's not a bad price.

www.my350z.com, www.g35driver.com.

Lotsa guys selling OEM VQ35 cams there.

 

He never said it was built, unless I missed something.





Anyway, congrats on getting her up and running again. It's been a long time coming, to be sure.

 

well unless he meant just getting it up and running this is what he said, so sorry if i thought different...and i am not a noob, i do read alot more than i do post here just in case you were thinking of saying anything. im on nycmaximas.org and i have a good rep with them, and i find that online family alot more kind then some on here. i hope you dont find that offensive, just wanted to let that be known =]

 

Dandy, what overlap did you get the cams at? I'm wondering if mine are too extreme. Intake closing at 56* (with adaptors) and exhaust opening at 49* with spacers.

 

is it possible to be too extreme?

 

Depends on your rev limit.

 

Don't really think you can use OEM VQ35 cams and extreme in the same sentence.

 

this is great news, and videos to boot ! dont get tempted, let that clutch break in good. ITS ALIVE !!!

 

Yeah the break-in is going to take some will power. Only 700 more miles!

When I said built, I guess technically it's not a full build, but I did have the engine torn down completely except for the crank/pistons, and I changed the cams, springs, retainers, oil pump, did some mild head work and tapped in an oil-pressure cut off switch, so it was definitely a rebuild at least with enhancements. It's not like I just took the engine off the truck and popped it in the car.

I went driving a bit tonight... man I need an alignment, I'm squealing tires everywhere just driving in a straight line lol, and idle is a problem right now, the stock ECU is confuzzled, and closed loop /cold start fueling is causing me grief as expected. Lots of tuning needed still.

 

I wasn't quite sure what had been done until now.

I got a spare MAF if you need it.

 

The MAF or lack of has nothing to do with it..

 

Cool that you got your car running. It's been 10 months for mine.

Post it - I am going to be making my own spacers either at work or on my buddy's CNC mill in his garage.

 

very cool man. can wait to see whats more to come.

 

My closed loop is loopy as well. But that’s what happens when you plug secondaries into the primary port, leave out the primaries all together, use a huge MAF housing, and DC the PCV from the VC to the intake.

Glad to see things are going as planned. I'm about to step off the deep end myself and buy a VQ35, get on FAST, and make large CC purchases on Greddy products.

 

I sent you a PM and the main question I need answered is which car has the dek motors, so if you could reaply to my annoyingly long pm that would be great.

On topic, why did you put the stock ecu back in vs detuning the emanage? Does the wiring allow you to switch back easily?

Why did you tap the oil pressure cut off?

Do you do your own tunning? The reason I ask this is because I read your how-to on the emanage install ans you seem very knolageable with ecuu's.

Last question is just a regular question. Whats a closed loop? I know its with the maf, but what is it?

PS, Great write up on the gready emanage!

 

DE-K = 2000-2001

cause EU is a piggyback, you need an ECU to make EU work

he tapped one in, so that if he looses oil pressure the engine shuts off and he doesnt freeze it up like what happened to the previous engine

 

Your buddy has one in his garage, like his house garage?

I have full access to a machine shop, but if I recall correctly they dont have any cnc machines, but I could be mistaken.

Can you pls find out the company of the machine along.with the model, i'm curious.

 

I was under the impression from the little that I read that The eu was an ecu, but thanks for the correction.

About the oil pressure switch, 2 questions. What causes the oil pressure to dip other than pump failure? And where do these get purchased and installed?

And last, all 2000, 2001 Maximas are de-k? That means my 2000 is dek. What are my benefits other than I know the im is differant?

 

Good Job DandyMax, looking forward too seeing that motor in action soon

I had 02 Pathfinder cams in my 99's DE along with 00vi, PF TB, and Hotshots..
after everything was tuned to 13.5AFR... I could put it on a G35x sedan..

the 3.5L cams are more aggressive than PF, so you should be seeing an EVEN fatter Midrange and SWEETer top-end, but because there's more lift/duration.. the low-end HP/TQ is lower (good for launching) and idle is a little lopy-er (but definitely not as lopy as JWT cams.....)
if you drive the car at 2000+ rpms you shouldn't notice anything out of the ordinary


somebody asked about installing cams with motor in the car..
Been there Done that.. prepare for a good day's work (if not more)

if you really want to make cam install 300% simpler..
1. be sure to set the crank to the mark at TDC on cyl1
2. remove the power steering reservoir and move it and lines to the right side..
3. disconnect the A/C compressor and move the hose all the way to the right of the engine bay. (for bolts clearance)
4. remove the alternator and the power steering pump (unbolt and move it over)
5. disconnect the timing chain mount and the transmision mount
6. start taking all the 10mm bolts off.
7. drop lower oil pan, there are 2 12mm bolts inside the pan securing the outer timing chain cover.
8. put a jack in the nub of the front of the crossmember, unscrew the 2 REAR crommember bolts HALFWAY, and unscrew the FRONT bolts OFF completely, dropping the front end of the crossmember slowly with the jack..
9. that should give you more than enough clearance to remove the outer timing chain cover, and clear that big bolt that sticks out.
10. (remove the manifold, valve covers, timing components, and install cams, this is the easy part LOL)
11. have fun with cleaning the timing chain cover surfaces before you apply new RTV.. make sure you apply it EVERYWHERE it needs to be, or you will probably have an oil seep later.
12. use the correct tightening bolt procedure and DON'T overtighten the bolts..

if you have worked on cars.. and are not afraid of tackling unexpected problems that may arise.. and of course have the '*****' and the patience to go through with it.. I don't foresee any problems.


spdfreak..
this is an ADVANCED PERFORMANCE section..
what's with all the n00b questions..
ie. if you don't know which motor you have.... go read the FAQ's..
you got the 5th gen forum for that beginner information..