Incase anyone read my old thread and has the same problem, heres what I did. I cleaned my Throttle body. It had so much black gunk in it I completly covered a white T-Shirt! After I cleaned it the car's idle is perfect again. I also changed my PCV valve and it seemed awfull cruddy and I could hardly here the valve upon and close when I shook it. BTW my car feels stronger and more a live now . I whould highly recomend cleaning your throttle body if you have a lot of miles on your, heck I whould clean it if I had low miles too.

 

Thanks for the tip and glad to see your max is feeling better.

SuDZ

 

Dont suppose you want to waste the time letting me know how to do that. I've recently devoloped severe idle problems!

Thanks.

 

This job can be done by a novice home mechanic. You may clean the Throttle Body by removing the black plastic air duct and gently rubbing the now-exposed TB interior with a lintless rag or a toothbrush moistened with carburetor cleaner. Hold the throttle open with your left hand while you rub with your right hand. You can do an even more thorough job by removing the TB from the engine, but that's more work.

 

Ahh thanks again...i've got my work cutout for me this weekend. Thanks!

 

I should probably do this too, Im sure I probably need it, Thanks for the info guys. Take Care

 

I think I may have seen that while replacing my fuel filter today. I took off the intake, MAF sensor, and the square box and flexible tube to get better access. Was the TB the thing with the circle that opened and connects where the flexible tube is? If mine was dirty would I be able to tell by just looking at it while the circle was in the closed position? Sorry if my post is a little confusing.

 

In front of the butterfly valve should be completely clean, its behind the valve where all the gunk is. Oh, and yes ,that was the throttle body WaarrEagle.

 

I assume to remove the throttle body from the engine is a couple of bolts? Anything else to be aware of when removing throttle body? How much Torque to apply when reattaching throttle body? Thank you for any help you can give.

 

I assume to remove the throttle body from the engine is a couple of bolts? Anything else to be aware of when removing throttle body? How much Torque to apply when reattaching throttle body? Thank you for any help you can give.

 

Thanks. I thought I was in the clear because that part was clean but I guess I will have to check again.

 

thank for the info guys with 64,000 miles i probably need to clean it..any one know where to get the k&n recharge kit for cheap..

 

You will need a new Gasket for the T.B.

When I cleaned my TB I just sprayed the can into the TB and wiped around with a rag. I actually used about 1/2 a can of TB cleaner. I whould not recommend cleaning yours the same way as I did because my engine hardly started becuase I spayed so much cleaner in there! Once it finaly{30 sec of cranking} starting a HUGE cloud of black/white smoke shot out the tail pipe. After about a minute all was well. I used a Tooth Brush today to get to the hard to reach places.

In the future I will just remove the TB so I don't have to worry about my engine not starting.

 

Just adding to what Daniel has already said:

If you remove the TB, there is a special tightening procedure. You just don't bolt it back on. It's like torquing your wheel lug nuts.

If you're looking straight into the throttle body, with the throttle position sensor at the right. Tighten the four bolts in this order: top right, bottom left, top left, bottom right. First tighten them to about 8 ft-lbs, then repeat the order, only this time to 16 ft-lbs.

 

Oops.

 

This question suggests you don't have a manual. Get one. Buy the book or borrow it from your public library.

Throttle Body removal and installation are covered in the Chilton repair manual (page 5-3) and the Haynes repair manual (page 4-10). Both books have good photos to guide you.

Questions and answers on this forum provide useful information. However, forum posts usually augment the manual rather than substitute for it.

 

Did mine TB cleaning today, went the long route and disassembled the whole thing.from the look of it, it was NEVER done before. There was about an 1/8 inch layer of what I assume was carbon on the whole inside of the TB....took a while to clean it out too. Car does idle ALOT smoother now though. Thanks alot guys!


Proudly DSTM (doing "SOME" things myself )

 

I was going to post the same thing. I used Chemtool Carb Cleaner and sprayed the hell out of it. I sprayed the body until all of the mud dripped out. BIG difference in the way the engine pulls in the lower RPM's and idling(smooth as silk).


As far as getting the car to start, just pump the pedal a few times and once you get the car started, let it idle for a for a while until everything burns off. I took things a step further by taking the Max on the highway for a 20 mile drive.

 

well looks like i have my next project this week. The udp is on and i'm gonna stop with the trans-go kit, it's a pain in the ***. don is gonna be getting a vb in the mail real soon. Once those tokicos come in too it's gonna get almost done for a while. Maybe some little stuff, front sway bar bushings sounds good.

 

I have still not goten my UDP from COZ! My patience is wearing thin. Looks like I am going to have to call him, damn it!

 

hi, could anyone explain to me what I have to disconnect after I removed the four bolts of the TB? It seems to get a little complicated in the area where the throttle lines are.

I'm having trouble removing the small hoses on either side on the bottom of the TB, any tips?

thanks!

 

you didn't email him. he is very resonsive to email. he'll shoot you your tracking number. Even though i have an auto now that i've done it it really wasn't that hard. locking the flywheel was easy. i guess all maxima's have that access port. The hardest part was the PS belt. but it idles better now, feels more relaxed, and has even better throttle response. slight increase in lowend.

 

I heard that using carb cleaner on TB's is bad because the carb cleaner has a potential to remove a protective coating on the TB. And the best is to use TB cleaner. Whether this is true or not I dunno...cause last I checked the TB was aluminum and aluminum doesnt rust like steel. I'll probably also clean out my TB sometime, maybe today by takin it off. Car has 65,500 miles on it, so its rackin up the miles.

 

I'm unaware of any protective coating on a TB. If you know otherwise, please explain. I'm always eager to learn more. If there is no coating, there is no need to protect it.

Statements which begin I heard are always suspect. There is an awful lot of misinformation circulating in the barbershop, the pool hall, and the Dairy Queen parking lot.

 

this is a project that I am going to have to do.... maybe if mine is really bad I will be able to get a slightly better 60' and edge out ejj 14.59 I may soon own my track again!!!

 

Its actually posted in the Haynes manual.

 

I'm having a lot of trouble removing the 3 rubber hoses that connct to the TB. I have the 4 screws on each corner off...other than the 3 hoses (how do i remove them anyway?), what else do I have to unscrew to get the TB loose? I'm afraid that if I remove a screw that I shouldn't, i might not be able to put it back together again. thanks

 

I respect the Haynes manual as an authoritive source. I just reread page 4-10 but found no reference to a protective coating. Please tell which page describes this coating.

 

I will search for it tomorrow, I am at work right now.

 

aww medic, at work...now??? (if you don't mind me asking, what hours is your shift?)

BTW, I think you have one of the best 4th gen 95-96 maximas out there. Great photography, good combo of rims, kit, and drop.

 

too bad he's slow.

 

Daniel, Haynes manual, page 4-9, bottom of the second column:

Caution:The throttle body on these models is coated with a sludge-resistant material designed to protect the bore and throttle plate. Do not attempt to clean the interior of the throttle body with carburetor(sp?) or other spray cleaners. The throttle body is designed to resist sludge accumulation and cleaning it may impair the performance of the engine.

Turd, I work overnights, Sunday 7P to 7A, and Mon-Thurs 11P to 7A. Oh, and thanks for the compliment.

Steve, you have a Frankencar, and NA you are even slower than me. AND your car is ugly. Mine can be made to go fast, yours will always be ugly.

 

I like the Haynes manuals also but I don't think the protective coating works for a long period of time. Whe I sprayed mine, the gunk just poured out of it. I guess it was stuck to the protective coating.

 

You are right. I am convinced. This raises a question: how does one safely clean the interior of the throttle body? Several Maxima.Org members reported that cleaning their TB immediately improved engine idling characteristics, or throttle response, or eliminated throttle sticking in the closed position.

The coating is supposed to resist sludge accumulation. If sludge has accumulated anyway, you might reason that the coating is not performing, and go right ahead with the cleaning.

If you saw that your TB throat was covered with "gunge" what would you do?

 

Or you might reason that the coating does work, and that by using carburator cleaner you may damage it, increasing the likelihood that buildup will occur much quicker next time.

 

I just called my local Nissan dealer (Crown Nissan in Birmingham, AL) and asked them and after talking to just about every department parts finally told me they have a special cleaner they use for the TB. It is made my BG and they would sell it for $8. I asked if it was a carb cleaner and he just said it was a TB cleaner and I don't think he knew too much about it. At least thats what the dealer uses. I went to BG's site at www.bgprod.com but couldn't find a TB cleaner but they have a bunch of automotive stuff there.

 

Ok, had time today so I joined the TB cleaning bandwagon. I removed the TB but only partially, left the hoses on. I simply (1) disconnected the cruise and throttle lines, (2) unscrewed the 4 bolts holding the TB on, (3) sprayed "Throttle Plate and Induction System Cleaner" ($0.99 at local Big Lots) unto paper towels and wiped away.

I didn't have as much soot/crap as you other guys (95SE with 69k miles). It was a very thin coating. also, if you use paper towels, use a bunch--once the PT gets used, it will start to deteriorate and brake off, so just keep whipping out new ones to use. Also, I chose to leave the hoses on 'cause they are a pain in the butt! As I started to remove them, I got flustered... found that you can leave them off and you still have plenty of room to turn the back side of the TB to face you.

In any case, I think you should remove the TB to clean it, so as not to avoid leaving chunks of material in there, ready to be sucked in.

 

Let's follow your line of reasoning. Suppose you have a bad idle, discover the interior of your TB is coated with "gunge", and believe this is the cause of the idle problem. What will you do?

 

Well, I suppose I'd find a TB cleaner rather than a carb cleaner, for fear of the carb cleaner having any negative effect. I'm still an aspiring DIYer, and I have a morbid aversion to the internals of my engine. The idea that I may have access to the inside of a part that leads to the cyliners strikes fear in my heart.

I'm the type of guy who would unknowingly drop a bolt into the engine when the valve cover was off.

 

I did the throttle body cleaning today. Took the whole thing out, and I'm glad I did. I got every single black annoying carbon buildup particle outta there, and idling and acceleation is smoother than I've every felt. (since I bought the car at 83k, figures)

Anyway, Nissan charge $99 in my town to do it, so I felt like I really got a good deal, only spending $3 for the TB cleaner.