Hey guys what is the EGT's in F that I should be seeing, what is too rich and what is too lean, I am more worried about being lean of course. Does anyone know what is a sweet point to be at under full boost for both power and safe EGT's? Thanks

 

No way to really tell unless you cross reference it with an wideband O2 dyno. I did that on my car and found out it's at 1400F WOT. I guess 1420F I would be running lean.

 

if you're running under ~ 1500 deg F, you should be okay.

 

While running the nitrous I would see ~805c (~1481f) just as I crossed the 1/4 mile mark.

With the SC the highest I have seen is ~780c (~1436f) while driving on the interstate and pushing it a bit.

 

Woohooo I am getting more replies,
Thanks guys for your imput, now how do we particularly know when we are running a little too lean? Other than hearing detonation? I was running at about 13.5:1 ratio (A/F) on my dyno, and a tech told me that I was kinda lean, at that time I was running about 1400, so I changed my FMU disc and placed a larger disc and now I am about 1100-1200 on heavy load? So now I am a little confused?

 

Lower EGTs are usually richer. You went to an 8:1 FMU disc from the 6:1, right? I think 7:1 is a better choice but Vortech dosent make one. You can get a boost bleader valve for the fmu to help lower the fuel pressure a bit or buy a fully adjustable FMU like Vortechs "Super FMU" and fine tune the ratios. Ask Loren about this.

13.5 is a bit lean, I was running ~12.6:1 with the nitrous wich is nice and safe.

 

I know this is a REALLY old thread, but why not bring it back because it has some good info in it...

I just bought Loren's S/C....

It has a Cartech FMU. Stupid Question - How do I adjust it?

IanS

 

Ask Lorn for the docs or call Cartech. But it should be pretty close for your car just like it was set for Lorens car. I wouldnt mess with it until you can get on a dyno.

 

There's a base fuel pressure adjuster and a flow rate adjuster (big thing in the middle is base and the tiny **** next to it is the flow rate). As Matt said, don't play with anything until you get on the dyno.

I was planning on getting the Cartech "adjustable" (hint hint Matt )FMU yesterday, but the shop wasn't open. It's WAY cheaper than the Vortech Super FMU.

 

Is this thread referring to N2O or S/C? How does the placement of the temp probe play a role in the readings? (i.e. further back than the front bank of cyl.) I have mine right where both banks come together towards the end of the Y (warpspeed). I am in the process of adjusting the FP to lean it out a bit since I'm only hitting 1000F when under boost. Is there any other way to tweak it out w/o having to try all kind of diff jets? Shops around here only sell jets in packs of like 5-6 and they rarely have the exact one you're looking for (they have to order them they say).

 

Is their a 2.62" pulley in the mail to you also?

 

I would like a retard box or (re)programmable ECU first...

Would you like the 2.87" if I do decide to go with a 2.62"?

 

Read that a little bit closer

 

Hehehehehe

What shot are you going to be using?

 

Good lord!!! You guys are nuts!

 

Dunno? I figure I should get ~20whp out of the 2.62 add that to my previous boost only dyno of 318@6300rpm and I'm at ~338whp. So I'll need another 20hp to get up to where I was before with nitrous. I was running a 40hp shot, so I'll start with a 20 and see how it looks. We know the motor can take 377whp because that was what my actual uncorrected numbers were. Dare I say 400whp?

 

You should be getting more than 20 whp by going from 3.125 to 2.62. Good luck!

 

 

Gesh now I know I can't keep up.