Lower Control Arm Keeps Coming Loose !!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Lower Control Arm Keeps Coming Loose !!!!
I posted a few weeks back about a knocking coming from my front end when Driving...almost like the rotation of the tire, but NOT really every rotation and it would go away sometimes and come back. My entire front end was done over when I did my motor. Lower control arms completly rebuilt with ES Poly bushings. Outer and inner tie rods with bushings. Sway bar bushings by ES. Ball joints. All that fun stuff.
Well I went to a place to get it up on the lift before I start ordering CV joints or wheel bearings. Well in fact it wasnt either of them. The MAIN-BIG-NUT on the lower control came loose and allowed a little play. The BIG nut faces the front of the car and holds that flap peice on, which is bolted to the frame with those 4 bolts. I believe the Big nut is something like 25mm or so. The macanic tightened it down and I went on my way.
Well it started knocking again. Im pretty sure it came loose again. Anyone know why that would keep coming loose ??
-matt
Well I went to a place to get it up on the lift before I start ordering CV joints or wheel bearings. Well in fact it wasnt either of them. The MAIN-BIG-NUT on the lower control came loose and allowed a little play. The BIG nut faces the front of the car and holds that flap peice on, which is bolted to the frame with those 4 bolts. I believe the Big nut is something like 25mm or so. The macanic tightened it down and I went on my way.
Well it started knocking again. Im pretty sure it came loose again. Anyone know why that would keep coming loose ??
-matt
You need new nuts.LOL
I'm also refreshing my steering & suspension
IMO That nut is a special nut(nylon)It has a plastic lining at the end of it.
The plastic grabs the bolt & prevents the nut from backing off..
Apply (red)thread lock on the bolt for now and crank that biotch tight. Then order 2 new from the stealership.Good luck
IMO That nut is a special nut(nylon)It has a plastic lining at the end of it.
The plastic grabs the bolt & prevents the nut from backing off..
Apply (red)thread lock on the bolt for now and crank that biotch tight. Then order 2 new from the stealership.Good luck
IIRC, you should replace the nut every time you remove it. That's what I did last time I took it off the control arm. Try that, it's something you can do yourself and it's like $3-4 at the dealer... maybe cheaper if they like you.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Alright...Ill definetly be calling up the dealer tomorrow. Thats why I love this place. I figured the auto parts store that I had the bushings installed at, just didnt tighten them down all the way. Even after about 20 miles on the highway, it starts to make this weird fluttering noise when it starts to come loose. Great Information !!!!
-matt
-matt
Make sure you use the washers too if needed or else. 
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=261535

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=261535
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Look at the pic above. That Large Nut.
So what your saying is that the rubber slipped by the bolt and came completly un-done ?? Do I need the Triangle Washer on there, or can it just be a standard washer ??
So what your saying is that the rubber slipped by the bolt and came completly un-done ?? Do I need the Triangle Washer on there, or can it just be a standard washer ??
Yeah you sure would have problems without the washers.
Regarding the big nut, Nissan makes fasteners like this with locking threads and stuff so the techs and factory assemblers don't have to do any extra work. But it's not the only solution: you can use permanent loc-tite, stake the nut (go right at the exposed thread with a hardened punch and drive a dent in there), drill thru the nut/stud and lockwire, etc.
Dave
Regarding the big nut, Nissan makes fasteners like this with locking threads and stuff so the techs and factory assemblers don't have to do any extra work. But it's not the only solution: you can use permanent loc-tite, stake the nut (go right at the exposed thread with a hardened punch and drive a dent in there), drill thru the nut/stud and lockwire, etc.
Dave
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