Wheel studs suck!
Wheel studs suck!
One of my wheel studs took a **** on me today when I was swapping out my race-rims for my street-rims. And this was only after 15 changes, so not wanting to deal with having another stud go out on me I'm going to be upgrading over to ARP stud bolts. Only problem I'm having now is I have NO idea what the stock knurl length and diameter are. I know I drive an Altima, but I HIGHLY doubt that Nissan would use different studs for every model. I don't really care about overall length of the stud either since I'll be going with aftermarket/tuner lugs, so they should be covered. Hell, I'd actually prefer if they stick out a little from the rim.
And just to make sure I'm right, our thread pattern is M12X1.25" right? Or is it 1.5"?
Another question I have is whether or not I should REMOVE the wheel stud mount or not? I've heard some people just hammer out the studs and "press" in the new ones with some washers and a bolt, but then I've read that could damage the wheel bearing. How do you remove that mount? By removing the big bolt in the center? Will removing that and then reinstalling it cause any problems?
Thanks!
GENE
And just to make sure I'm right, our thread pattern is M12X1.25" right? Or is it 1.5"?Another question I have is whether or not I should REMOVE the wheel stud mount or not? I've heard some people just hammer out the studs and "press" in the new ones with some washers and a bolt, but then I've read that could damage the wheel bearing. How do you remove that mount? By removing the big bolt in the center? Will removing that and then reinstalling it cause any problems?
Thanks!
GENE
Last edited by 2002AltimateV6; Nov 23, 2007 at 10:18 PM.
why even bother with overpriced "race" crap.
you can pick up a bag full of OEM studs for a few bucks. it's not like they take more than 10 minutes to replace one, with the most basic of tools, at the track.
I always have a few in my tool bag, and we've replaced studs on various maximas at the track using a couple wrenches and a hammer. no big deal.
I've probably changed my wheels 100 times or so since I bought this car and have broken a grand total of one stud, though. If you do the following, there is no reason you should ever break even an OEM stud:
1. hand thread (no crossthread!)
2. never put on using an impact gun
3. always torque to spec - no tighter, no looser.
i dunno, do whatever. Just seems a waste of $50+ replacing something like that....
you can pick up a bag full of OEM studs for a few bucks. it's not like they take more than 10 minutes to replace one, with the most basic of tools, at the track.
I always have a few in my tool bag, and we've replaced studs on various maximas at the track using a couple wrenches and a hammer. no big deal.
I've probably changed my wheels 100 times or so since I bought this car and have broken a grand total of one stud, though. If you do the following, there is no reason you should ever break even an OEM stud:
1. hand thread (no crossthread!)
2. never put on using an impact gun
3. always torque to spec - no tighter, no looser.
i dunno, do whatever. Just seems a waste of $50+ replacing something like that....
why even bother with overpriced "race" crap.
you can pick up a bag full of OEM studs for a few bucks. it's not like they take more than 10 minutes to replace one, with the most basic of tools, at the track.
I always have a few in my tool bag, and we've replaced studs on various maximas at the track using a couple wrenches and a hammer. no big deal.
I've probably changed my wheels 100 times or so since I bought this car and have broken a grand total of one stud, though. If you do the following, there is no reason you should ever break even an OEM stud:
1. hand thread (no crossthread!)
2. never put on using an impact gun
3. always torque to spec - no tighter, no looser.
i dunno, do whatever. Just seems a waste of $50+ replacing something like that....
you can pick up a bag full of OEM studs for a few bucks. it's not like they take more than 10 minutes to replace one, with the most basic of tools, at the track.
I always have a few in my tool bag, and we've replaced studs on various maximas at the track using a couple wrenches and a hammer. no big deal.
I've probably changed my wheels 100 times or so since I bought this car and have broken a grand total of one stud, though. If you do the following, there is no reason you should ever break even an OEM stud:
1. hand thread (no crossthread!)
2. never put on using an impact gun
3. always torque to spec - no tighter, no looser.
i dunno, do whatever. Just seems a waste of $50+ replacing something like that....
unless you really feel this will solve your problem. (I obviously can understand it as well as you) unless you are going for the colored nuts then there is no reason to buy any other than the cheapest.
here is where i got my acorn ones: http://www.ezaccessory.com/
why even bother with overpriced "race" crap.
you can pick up a bag full of OEM studs for a few bucks. it's not like they take more than 10 minutes to replace one, with the most basic of tools, at the track.
I always have a few in my tool bag, and we've replaced studs on various maximas at the track using a couple wrenches and a hammer. no big deal.
I've probably changed my wheels 100 times or so since I bought this car and have broken a grand total of one stud, though. If you do the following, there is no reason you should ever break even an OEM stud:
1. hand thread (no crossthread!)
2. never put on using an impact gun
3. always torque to spec - no tighter, no looser.
i dunno, do whatever. Just seems a waste of $50+ replacing something like that....
you can pick up a bag full of OEM studs for a few bucks. it's not like they take more than 10 minutes to replace one, with the most basic of tools, at the track.
I always have a few in my tool bag, and we've replaced studs on various maximas at the track using a couple wrenches and a hammer. no big deal.
I've probably changed my wheels 100 times or so since I bought this car and have broken a grand total of one stud, though. If you do the following, there is no reason you should ever break even an OEM stud:
1. hand thread (no crossthread!)
2. never put on using an impact gun
3. always torque to spec - no tighter, no looser.
i dunno, do whatever. Just seems a waste of $50+ replacing something like that....
I have broken a couple of studs by not following your (wise) rules.
Actually, both times I hand started them, but I only did a few threads and I think I "pushed" the impact gun up or down like a ding dong. I stopped using a gun and just do it by hand. I have always torqued to proper specs, though.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Andy29
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
8
Sep 29, 2015 05:32 AM
DC_Juggernaut
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
4
Sep 28, 2015 04:07 PM




