It is time for my 3rd gen to get the whole exhuast system put in. I will need headers and the whole exhuast to go In,but First I will like to know what tools will I need besides the fresh sets of gaskets and some welding solder and some Pb blasters and thats if I decide to go with cheap exguast that requires welding only.
I am looking for some good cheap aftermarket exhuast that is aroung (200-350) with bolts and requring only a little bit of welding possible to none to be perfect. I saw on aftermarket that was with all bolt-ons and it was to pricey.
Thanks.

 

they're gonna get on you about exguast because it's exhaust

 

TOOLS
im gonna state the obvious(hopefully) first:
jack stands (4)
sawz-all
new exhaust system
and a friend

most of the uses for these should be obvious.

 

what engine are you rocking? I have a used y pipe for the VG which is proven to increase HP. As far as tools goes, you will need a basic socket set, preferably one with deep sockets and extension bar as well. Lots of PB blaster, torch to heat some rusted nuts up, and since you will be messing with your Y pipe, be very careful or be prepared to drill out a couple of broken studs.

 

headers - you'll need a good deal of wrenches and etc just because the manifold studs are difficult to get to and if they are broken twice as hard to drill out the studs.

y-pipe - that's can be bought from various vendors...performance y or not is your call.

cat - yeah you'll need this to keep it legal

b-pipe - get the pre fabbed one if that's available.

muffler and tailpipe - again get the prefabbed one.

if you want to weld you'll be using a welding wire...it's not solder...we're not sweating copper pipes here.

what i recommend is getting a cheap cat back and bolt that on and call it the day....since it sounds like you're in a budget. don't even touch the headers or anything else. gotta stop reading the honda magazines...headers on a V6 motor is a lot tougher than it looks/sounds...esp with this motor.

 

and look..you are the only person to point that out.

yeah we're just horrible people on here.

 

Don't mind my TYPO Blackmax I am too tired to type and no one said anything tell you droped in anyways. I have 91 max with a 3.0L VG and a after market headers the b-pipe on back is fabricated exhaust. I am in a budget crisis and I will have to replace this thing ASAP with out bracking any studs and bolts. I will have to look for the exhaust. I have one here it looks good but I will have to look for a cheaper one. I don't have to remove the radiator to get to the front part or I will get everything from the bottom.

 

good luck with not breaking the studs on the exhaust manifold/headers.
if you snap a stud on the front then removing the radiator might be needed to get more room.

why not just get a regular exhaust "kit" from your local parts store. i'm sure walker or something have a pre fabbed b-pipe, muffler, tailpipe for the car. just use a few exhaust clamps and call it the day.

 

unless you are replacing the headers, then you can get at most things from the bottom. A hint, in order to minimize the chance of you breaking the studs, you will need to have a jack stand and a 2x4 block. Shove the 2x4 in the space between the y pipe before the flex section, and then have the jackstand up against the bottom part, applying slight pressure. That way, the header won't get stress when you are messing with the rest of the exhaust system.

 

i guess that works if the studs are not currently broken but no matter what you do to jack up the exhaust the turning of the nut usually will break the stud...but that also depends on your luck.

 

I found the exhuast system that I like,now heres the link it's on this site www.streetperformance.com (you have to type in the year and model ect.) and the brand is Pacesetters. will i have any problems with the fitting and should I go with the long headers or the short headers.

 

i guess you point out his typos, but not yours!!!



if the studs are all intact, you could go ahead and replace them while you have the manifolds off! would that be a bad idea guys? i think not, considering the studs are old and brittle by now.

good luck on the exhaust!

 

everyone complains about the pacesetter brand...but the set i had was built VERY strong...never tried to install it though, sold my VG before i could.

IMHO, someone tried it, and it wasnt right, so every one else thinks they're horrible.

Pacesetter is a good brand name, so i don't know what the problem would be....the decision is yours, don't let anyone freak you out on here.

 

I am sure you saw it and it looks nice and they should do good on the VG motors and the VE. I like the quality and the bolt ons to finish it up quick. It should be a piece a cake. I am wondering if the OEM gaskets will work for the aftermarkets or they will be provide me with one.

 

IIRC, i didn't get gaskets with mine, but i may be mistaken.....As i said, the headers looked good...the surfaces were all even, and smooth...the powdercoating was nice, and everything was VERY solidly made, so i would go with it myself, if they made them for the VE, jsut to test them out ;x

 

I believe that there only selling the headers and not the b-pipe and the rest of the exhaust in this portion.

 

Since you actually didn't install them on a vg,you didn't find out they do have fitment issues on the vg maxima,the headers they sell for our cars were originally made for the pathfinder,which has a different exhaust bends/routing behind the headers,hence the fitment issues to the y-pipe..

Here are a few examples of pacesetter quality issues.




http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=262137

http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/v8/8250.html

http://www.vadriven.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72184

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/boa...php?pid=107696


vqmaxman: I recommend you steer clear of pacesetter headers..

 

Well after reading the post I guess the headers are bad for the car.
I will have some problems removing the back part of the headers.
Is there any recommanded tools for the back part.

 

and also, no one has mentioned WHAT did not fit correctly, nor why....just "grumblegrumblegrumble" from what i see (speaking of the VG headers.)

Every major/minor brand of parts has people that say "this junk sucks!" "it doesn't fit!" "it doesn't work!" it's just something that comes with mass production.

i still believe that with the proper know-how and tools, they should fit just fine....show me why they don't work, and maybe i will change my outlook....so, bring me someone that can tell me WHY they won't fit, and i'll retract my earlier statements.....until then, i am not pushing anyone away from pacesetter...only warnign them of possible fitment issues in the past. (possible being key)

 

my concern would be the finish. one guy (from the links) mentioned it isn't a high temp paint
of course, for the price, you cannot expect perfection.
I believe there is a reason that pacecetter has any reputation. anybody could produce a low cost exhaust, but NOT everyone is reaching a name people have heard of.

 

The only thing I want to know is if the fittment will be the issue. I am hearing bothsides so which one should it be. The headers will fit or not.If not than I guess I will try to find a OEM one or one form the junkyard if they sell them as is.

 

you could always get them from summit racing....try them, and if they don't fit, send them back for your refund...they are a reputable company. i've had a few problems in the past with products from them, and ended up returning them.

 

I am having second thoughts about doing this,because the back part of the headers will be a hard piece I will have to remove the fuel filter and some vaccum hose. I am sure you guys said it could be done on a driveway right with big floor jacks.

 

wait....


or



make sure you use the latter which are jack stands


I wouldn't trust a floor jack, except to put a stand to replace it

as for the driveway, sure it could be done on stands, almost anything you do on your car can
hopefully you won't break any studs.

Good Luck

 

Hey Can some one tell me if there r any VE headers/manifolds out there?
cant seem to find any

 

The ve has headers already..

 

Is that a joke or does it really have em?

 

It has them.. but they tend to break studs on their own pretty easily.


I need to redo my rear one, and it looks like it's gonna be a PITA to get at.

 

so far, i know that with the VE it has easier to get to the rear manifold from UNDERNEATH the car......and when i took apart my VG parts car, i was able to get to the studs from the top, bu that was after removing the valve cover, also.

it was a pain in the **** from the bottom, but was MUCH much better than going at it from the top on my VE.

VE manifolds with heatshields removed:

 

For the rear manifold on a VE it looks like you have to take off the y pipe, take off the crossmember, as well as the bottom motor mount bolts (2 front, 2 rear). and you also have to take off the back motor mount completely. I spend 1/2 hour crawling around under my car trying to figure out how i'm gonna do it. It seems pretty straightforward but even with the motor mount out of the way i dont think i'll have a clear view of the center pipe on the manifold, unless theres an extra part of the mount I have to remove. If you do your rear manifold, let me know how it goes.

 

You do not need to remove the mount or crossmember, just the b or y-pipe. We did it the other weekened

 

hmm really? From what I saw it looks like the center pipe on the manifold would still be near inaccesable without the crossmember off.

I guess i'll just pull the Y pipe first then and see what I can get done from there with the crossbeam on. Unfortunatley I'll have to cut the cat off as it's welded to the OEM flange because its a stupid universal cat that I dont think is actually working since I failed emissions bigtime.

 

i want so shinny headers like the VG... I want to know if there is or where can i get some for the VE!

 

Why? you cant see them unless your hood is open, heat shields off, or if you're under the car.

 

I can't see this unless i open my hood.

 

lol point taken. I knew someone was gonna come at me with that. But you still cant see the manifolds as they're behind the heat shield. And you couldnt see the rear regardless. nonetheless, if it's a better part, go for it. but if you've already got good manifolds, no point changing them just to get shiny ones.

And greenmax, is that a cold air intake where the air filter box should be? Where does the intake pipe lead from?

 

the way we got to the rear manifold best is to be under the car obviously)...with your feet towards the rear of the vehicle...and once the Y/B pipe is out of the way...you can get to the 4 D side manifold bolts from the D side of the crossmember, and the 2 P side bolts from the P side of the crossmember......

turned out MUCH easire (IMHO) than removing the crossmember, and supporting the engine.

 

I am right I can get under the car and take out the studs and the y-pipe but the rear motor mount will be in the way and I don't have to remove the mounts or the crossmember bar right? Just want to double check,because I am planning on how I am going to tear it up.

 

1.Yes

2. Under the d-side headlight..

 

the only time that the crossmember and motor mount are in the way is when you go to pull the manifold out of there. but with some creative angles of approach, you can get it out.

oh....we also had to remove the shifter stabilizer bar and bracket IIRC....but thats only like 3 bolts, so no big deal.