Bedding protocall for new Pads + Rotors
Bedding protocall for new Pads + Rotors on a 4th Gen
im about to install brand new AKEBONO PRO-ACT CERAMIC pads and BREMBO SPORT BLANKS on all 4 wheels this weekend.
so obviously ive read the stoptech and tirerack bedding procedures that say, once i install new pads and rotors, i should make 5-6 consecutive stops from 60mph to 10mph and then back up to 60mph. once that is complete, i should drive 15 minutes without stopping. i planned on doing my installation at 7:30am saturday morning in order to have minimal traffic on the highway for this process.
i did a search and read some of the past threads about the bedding process and the answers seem quite varied. some include new pads/old rotors and some include old pads/new rotors. there doesnt seem to be one straight answer...
- some people even say that this procedure of heating up the rotors so violently has CAUSED warping.
- some people say i should just drive lightly on them (no hard stops) for the first 250-500 miles. this is in fact what brembo recommends for new rotors, but they do not mention old pads vs new pads.
- and some people advocate this aforementioned bedding procedure wherein you heat up the pads initially to transfer material and then let them cool over the next 15 minutes of continuous driving.
so given my setup, a 97 GLE about to install 4 new brembo blanks and 8 new akebono ceramic pro-act pads, which of these would you suggest?
is the 60mph-10mph-60mph overkill? is that going to heat up the pads too much?
also, it is going to rain on saturday. would that affect this procedure in any way?
*i am planning on using some brake cleaner to completely wipe the new rotors when i get them out of the box and also im going to coat the hub with some white lithium in order to retard rust. is this all correct?
so obviously ive read the stoptech and tirerack bedding procedures that say, once i install new pads and rotors, i should make 5-6 consecutive stops from 60mph to 10mph and then back up to 60mph. once that is complete, i should drive 15 minutes without stopping. i planned on doing my installation at 7:30am saturday morning in order to have minimal traffic on the highway for this process.
i did a search and read some of the past threads about the bedding process and the answers seem quite varied. some include new pads/old rotors and some include old pads/new rotors. there doesnt seem to be one straight answer...
- some people even say that this procedure of heating up the rotors so violently has CAUSED warping.
- some people say i should just drive lightly on them (no hard stops) for the first 250-500 miles. this is in fact what brembo recommends for new rotors, but they do not mention old pads vs new pads.
- and some people advocate this aforementioned bedding procedure wherein you heat up the pads initially to transfer material and then let them cool over the next 15 minutes of continuous driving.
so given my setup, a 97 GLE about to install 4 new brembo blanks and 8 new akebono ceramic pro-act pads, which of these would you suggest?
is the 60mph-10mph-60mph overkill? is that going to heat up the pads too much?
also, it is going to rain on saturday. would that affect this procedure in any way?
*i am planning on using some brake cleaner to completely wipe the new rotors when i get them out of the box and also im going to coat the hub with some white lithium in order to retard rust. is this all correct?
Last edited by ROCKART; Dec 20, 2007 at 08:28 AM.
Originally Posted by Tirerack.com
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:
When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.
It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.
The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced. Notice how many manufacters state to avoid use of parking brake during (or right after) heat cycling.
If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.
Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.
Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:
AKEBONO
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
ATE
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
BREMBO Gran Turismo
In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at The Tire Rack for racing application information.
KAZERA
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
POWER SLOT
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
SATISFIED
For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —
Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.
Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.
During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.
As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.
Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.
For all other Satisfied pads —
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.
It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.
The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced. Notice how many manufacters state to avoid use of parking brake during (or right after) heat cycling.
If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.
Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.
Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:
AKEBONO
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
ATE
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
BREMBO Gran Turismo
In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at The Tire Rack for racing application information.
KAZERA
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
POWER SLOT
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.
SATISFIED
For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —
Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.
Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.
During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.
As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.
Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.
For all other Satisfied pads —
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
Last edited by Fr33way™; Dec 20, 2007 at 10:13 AM.
When i installed my Brembo blanks with the HPS (both new) i went with the rotor "break-in" process first. That is, to take it easy the first couple hundred miles by heat cycling the material. To me, this was basically being easy on the rotors and not hitting them too hard with brake duty. (No multiple high-speed stops, which is what the pad break-in procedure calls for).
After about 300 miles i proceeded with the pad bedding.
Basically, i followed Brembo's instructions for the rotors then followed-up with the Hawk HPS instructions.
After about 300 miles i proceeded with the pad bedding.
Basically, i followed Brembo's instructions for the rotors then followed-up with the Hawk HPS instructions.
so, and im sorry for being a pain in the *** about this, you are saying DO NOT do the 60mph-10mph-60mph 5 times?
just drive normally for the first 300 miles like tirerack says?
how do you "bring the rotors to operating temp in a controlled manner" ?
just drive normally for the first 300 miles like tirerack says?
how do you "bring the rotors to operating temp in a controlled manner" ?
Bedding primarily is dependent on the pad, and in your case, driving for a few hundred miles suffice. A pad like Hawk HPS performs better when following their specific procedure, probably because it is more "performance" oriented.
i figure as long as im gonna bleed em for the new setup i might as well swap fluids. i did a search on the "best" brake fluid and people seem to agree valvoline SYNPOWER DOT 4 is the best for a 4th gen. they say do not put DOT 5 in ur lines.
so i went to autozone and the only valvoline synpower they had was something that said
"exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4"
i asked one clerk whether it was DOT 5 because it "exceeds DOT 4" and he said no, its dot 4 just better. i asked another clerk and he said it was DOT 5, but there would be no problem running it in my lines. basically i got the idea that neither of them knew wtf they were talking about.
there was a PRESTONE DOT 4 there, but i figured id ask yall before buying the wrong fluid.
should i buy the "exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4" valvoline synpower fluid?
is there such a thing as just DOT 4 valv synpower?
or should i just buy the prestone DOT 4 and be done with it?
also, the capacity of the brake system is 1 quart correcT?
so i went to autozone and the only valvoline synpower they had was something that said
"exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4"
i asked one clerk whether it was DOT 5 because it "exceeds DOT 4" and he said no, its dot 4 just better. i asked another clerk and he said it was DOT 5, but there would be no problem running it in my lines. basically i got the idea that neither of them knew wtf they were talking about.
there was a PRESTONE DOT 4 there, but i figured id ask yall before buying the wrong fluid.
should i buy the "exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4" valvoline synpower fluid?
is there such a thing as just DOT 4 valv synpower?
or should i just buy the prestone DOT 4 and be done with it?
also, the capacity of the brake system is 1 quart correcT?
Valvoline Synpower is a good fluid. I used to have ATE Super Blue and the Valvoline feels much better than the ATE, it's more affordable too! I haven't tracked my car so i don't know how they differ in high performance applications. But i am a relatively spirited driver.
Exceeding Dot 3 and 4 just means it's designed to perform better (thus the higher wet and dry boiling point over competing fluids). It is *not* a DOT 5.1 fluid (which contains silicone, thus the incompatibility with systems using 3 and 4).
And to answer your prior question, "how do you bring the rotors to operating temp in a controlled manner ?", the best way i can describe it is "leisurely braking and accelerating". No high speed stops, no sudden stops, no repeated stops within a few seconds of each other. Give the rotors ample time to heat up (by slowly applying brake pressure) and cool down (cruise around a bit).
If you do have to administer emergency braking, don't worry about it. Safety comes first and the couple of times you have to abruptly stop will not stress the rotors thermally.
Exceeding Dot 3 and 4 just means it's designed to perform better (thus the higher wet and dry boiling point over competing fluids). It is *not* a DOT 5.1 fluid (which contains silicone, thus the incompatibility with systems using 3 and 4).
And to answer your prior question, "how do you bring the rotors to operating temp in a controlled manner ?", the best way i can describe it is "leisurely braking and accelerating". No high speed stops, no sudden stops, no repeated stops within a few seconds of each other. Give the rotors ample time to heat up (by slowly applying brake pressure) and cool down (cruise around a bit).
If you do have to administer emergency braking, don't worry about it. Safety comes first and the couple of times you have to abruptly stop will not stress the rotors thermally.
i found a pic of what it was i saw in the store......does this look like the bottle you used?
notice the EXCEEDS DOT 3 AND DOT 4
also, what is the capacity of the system? i think its 1 quart but i aint sure.
notice the EXCEEDS DOT 3 AND DOT 4
also, what is the capacity of the system? i think its 1 quart but i aint sure.
Yep, it's marketing mumbo jumbo that basically says it was "over-engineered" but it doesn't mean it's a DOT 5 fluid.
It's like Synthetic motor oil. It meets or exceeds dino oil performance and specifications, but it doesn't mean you're using coconut oil in your engine
It's like Synthetic motor oil. It meets or exceeds dino oil performance and specifications, but it doesn't mean you're using coconut oil in your engine
From the horse's mouth.
SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid is recommended for ABS, hydraulic drum and disc braking systems and hydraulic clutches requiring DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. Its premium, synthetic, low-moisture formulation provides superior anti-vapor lock protection. It has a high dry-boiling point up to 500°F that reduces the risk of fluid vaporization and possible brake failure.
* Exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications
* For most ABS, disc or drum brake systems
* High boiling point reduces risk of brake failure
* Compatible with conventional brake fluids
SynPower High Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid is recommended for ABS, hydraulic drum and disc braking systems and hydraulic clutches requiring DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. Its premium, synthetic, low-moisture formulation provides superior anti-vapor lock protection. It has a high dry-boiling point up to 500°F that reduces the risk of fluid vaporization and possible brake failure.
* Exceeds DOT 3 and DOT 4 specifications
* For most ABS, disc or drum brake systems
* High boiling point reduces risk of brake failure
* Compatible with conventional brake fluids
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 995
I suggest following the bedding procedure for the pads you are using. The rotors should be able to take the stress of the bedding. If you use a race pad procedure for a basic street pad you may exceed the temp range of the pad and damage it.
My Hawk HP+ pads required the 60mph-10mph cycle, and then a 80mph-10mph cycle. My rotors did not warp, and the pads were smoking after the bedding process.
My Hawk HP+ pads required the 60mph-10mph cycle, and then a 80mph-10mph cycle. My rotors did not warp, and the pads were smoking after the bedding process.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 239
From: somewhere in Maryland
I think most manufacturers print the bed in procedure for the pads in the box. Just follow what's printed on the box and ignore the rest. I recently got Pro-Stop ceramic brake pads and bedded them in with 10-15 stops from 35-10mph with 30 sec in between stops.
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