Hey Guys, I need your help!

On Friday I decided to finally change all six of my fuel injectors (that I got off ebay; used), since two of the injectors had a high resistance, and the engine was misfiring. The first mistake that we did was forget to pull the fuel pump fuse … which resulted in fuel spraying on our faces. When we closed up the engine with the used injectors it turned out that 5 of the 6 fuel injectors were not firing (no flow). So then I went and bought another set of fuel injectors (ref from parts unlimited). When we placed the new injectors in, the car would not start … after several hours we figured out that the O-rings on the injectors were too small and fuel was leaking. So we bought new ring, replaced them, and all seemed to work fine after that. But now whenever I try to start the car, it chokes and will not start … only if I pull the fuel pump fuse then it starts. It seems that there is too much fuel and the car just chokes on that. What do u guys think the of this could be? I checked the fuel pressure and it seems to be in range.

 

you still likely have bad o'rings
and if you bought refurbished/reman/rebuilt/ rewhatever injectors, you WILL be doing the job again soon

 

well,not really "bad" o'rings so to speak,but more likely pinched o'rings...xnos,you need to really slather up the o'rings up like a **** with petroleum jelly before you press them in the injector rail.

 

guess it beats out calling them "malfunctioning" o'rings

 

that could be it .... I didn't put anything else on the injector, I thought that the rings would seal all the gaps. Thanks for the idea.

 

BTW I was just wondering ... do you guys think that the injectors are bad? Could also be because they might me spraying too much fuel?

 

Nope,if you didn't grease up the o'rings before you pressed them into the injector rails,then they are most likely leaking fuel past them..

 

alright then I will take the engine apart again on thursday and put the jelly on the Rings.

Btw. Can I can put the jelly straight on the injectors, or should I remove each ring, greese it, and then put it back.

thanks 4 all the help guys

 

Straight on the injectors will work fine.

 

You're fine with lubing up with the rings installed, just flip them and do both hemispheres. Do that, as well as apply oil to the walls of the rails and when you screw them down, alternate between each screw by only turning .25-.50 around until they are both down tight.

 

Ok so I did all that and the car seems to run good when I have in Drive (idle at 700 RPM). The problem now is now when I put the car in park or neutral... as soon as I put the car in Park the RPM starts at 2k and goes down to 1.3k ... and then begins to go up and down randomly. I tried to lower the idle by turning the screw on the manifold, but when I do that the car just dies out and won't start. Checked all the fuses ... no luck there. Also if I leave the car in PARK for more than 10min, it will over heat ( I believe that the fans are not always starting correctly). Keep in mind that I have no problems with the car when I have it in drive … no overheating. Then I tried to attach the car to the computer (OBD I), because I figured if the temp sensor is ok then there must be something wrong with the ECU (ECU turns on the fans) . Unfortunately after many tries I could not get into the car’s engine via OBD... the only thing I can see was A/T and something else that was irrelevant.

At this point I am thinking that the cause of this could be corroded grounds or a bad connection to the ECU. What do u guys think??

BTW thanks for all the help …

 

have you tried to pull codes off the ecu directly? I havent heard of the odb I stuff working on our cars correctly.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=18

 

No but I will try that ... I will let you know how it turns out.

thanks

 

ok, so I finally got a chance to work on the car today. I tried pulling the codes off the ECU but then I just got 5Green 5Red, so i thought that everything is alright. But then the Check Engine began to flash in a specific sequence... 2 long flashes, 3 flashes , pause , 4 flashes, 5 flashes ... and then it just repeats. So I am just guessing the this would indicate a Code 45 (leaking fuel injectors). Is this correct ?

thanks

 

Btw I am thinking of just changing the fuel rail in this case. What do u guys think?

 

don't bother replacing the rail unless you are replacing it with a rail that already has the new injectors and their o'rings installed.
leaking injectors are either bad injectors or bad o'rings <- my guess

 

sorry I am new here but I have a problem that is similar to this on my 93 maxima.

I had just replace two new fuel injector that is located under the intake manifold and everything work fine until the next day when I try to crank the car up it doesnt start up right away, I have to turn the key and hold it for a moment while the car is hesitating trying to start up. It would eventually start up also if I turn my engine off right away and try to start it up, I would have no problem. The problem persists if I leave the car off for a couple of hour.

Did I messed up something during my installation. I did lube the oring, just change the spark plug.

Thanks in advance

 

You most likely have bad o-rings too. I experienced a similar issue with starting and it was due to a leaking o-ring. The fuel system loses pressure with the leaking o-ring and takes longer to crank and build back pressure in the rails.

 

when you install the fuel injector, you would lube up the o-ring and gently press it down then twist left and right to check if it move smoothly around and then do you hold the injector down while closing the top then putting the screw down?

Could someone write up a detail instruction as to how you would install it. I have read many instruction but they were not as detail as I would like.

Thanks for the help

 

i'm assuming you used new o-rings also. and are you 110% sure that all your vac hoses are hooked up properly and not cracked/broken?

 

No matter how careful you are, there is still the likelihood of damaging them.

 

So i am installing it right except for the last part which i have a question on?

I used the new o-ring that came with the injector
I check all the hose, and none seem to be crack or anything.
Even if it was crack would that cause the problem starting the car up but if I turn off the car and started it up a couple of minute later it would start up fine.

Also how can i tell if the o-ring are damage by physically looking at it

 

I have a problem with my fans as well. One won't stay on the motor but thats besides the point. The other won't run unless you have the AC turned on (or so the people at autozone told me after I had one of them look at it. The car runs and drives okay and I don't leave it parked for 10 minutes running so I don't really worry about it, but if I did I'd either disconnect the temperature sensor (automatically makes your fans run full blast) or I'd turn the AC on and check that the right fan kicks in.

 

hi guys, i just found out that the #4 injector on my 94 maxima is bad, so the engine shakes like crazy. i need to know should i change just one or all since its gonna take the same amount of time to do one. plz help.

 

if you are paying someone to do it, do all 6. if you are doing it yourself it depends on your budget and motor.

 

i am thinking i will do it my self, and i will be getting 6 new injectors. coz i have heared that usually when one injectors fails the rest follow suite. plz help if you have some tricks of trade or a web site i can visit for steps. thx

 

If you have a VG see: http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...lacement.shtml

If you have a VE see: http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ement-how.html

For a VG, you'll need a torque wrench, 6mm allen socket and any adaptors you may need to fit your torque wrench (my TW is a 1/2" drive and the allen head sockets are usually 3/8"), a good pair of pliers and/or vice grips, a #2 and #3 phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket, 14mm socket, a tub of vaseline for the o-rings on the injectors (the write-up for the VG called for motor oil, but I used vaseline per others recommendation), you'll probably also need a small right angle pick or something to make replacing the little rubber and metal retainers in the injector hold downs a bit easier..I also used mine for lifting the small old o-rings out, as even though my car is a 92, and 92-94s supposedly only use 1 o-ring instead of 2, mine had 2 as well as the metal clip type injector harness plugs noted for being on 89-91 models). You'll also need a good sized can of carb cleaner for cleaning the intake runners, and I'd suggest some plastic-safe electrical contact cleaner for the injector harness plugs..During reassembly, I didn't replace the EGR gasket, throttle body gasket, or aac valve gasket, instead I smeared a thin coat of permatex orange sensor-safe high temp RTV on each side of the old gaskets and reassembled..Whether you want to replace those gaskets or just seal em like I did is up to you..I already had the silicone, and couldn't get the aac valve gasket or throttle body gasket locally, and was limited to thursday and friday to get it done. Another thing you'll want to do is test your new injectors to make sure they're in spec, so you'll need a multimeter. I'd grab a foot of 5/16" vacuum line and about 3-4 feet of a smaller vacuum line, I forget what size the smaller stuff I used was, because you'll surely find some cracked and hardened lines..I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but I've got to get ready for work.

 

The VG injectors are the same from 89-92 the vG injectors are different for 93-94. the VE is different and the injector fits all DOHC maximas from 92-99

 

man thanx alot for this info, i am more confident now that i can change them my self, one question is that i found cheap but new injectors at rockauto.com what do you think, coz who ever i talk to they say they are about $100.00/ injector. check it out if you have time and let me know if its a good deal. thx again

 

if they aren't $100 or so per injector then they either aren't new or are a company called python that makes crappy new ones.

 

hi this is what was talking about.
AUTOLINE Part #16603

SOHC
price/injec$33.79core charge$10.00total$43.79
if you have time plz check out www.rockauto.com my car is 94 max gxe or should i go with reman one. n o w .
GB REMANUFACTURING Part # 84218117 {REMANUFACTURED, Includes new O-rings and seals}

and should i just change the one that is bad?
$35.89$15.00$50.89

 

they are both reman. that is why they both have a core charge. Neither one will be worth ****.
Buy new, and buy Bosch.
Do you have a yellow dot or green dot on your injector connector? (only matters if you are replacing less than 6)

 

for ome reason i could not see any coloring on the injectors. i just check, buy the way what is the difference btw the 2.

 

so... what i don't get is how do the companies that reman the injectors stay in business? because when they fail in a few months people assume it's something different and just leave the bad injectors in there? like this:

ok so you buy 2 reman injectors, car runs great for 6 months, then starts to run like crap again, your mechanic says "it's those 2 injectors again" and you're like "wtf are you trying to pull on me?! you JUST put them in! either tell me what the REAL problem is, or i'm finding another mechanic" "I know we just did those 2 injectors... but they have gone bad already" "bulls**t. i'm never bringing my car to you again. you don't know what you're doing"

^^^ is that how it works? people assume the injectors can't have failed, so they just keep the crap injectors and try to fix the car in other ways, rather than returning the injectors under warranty and/or demanding a refund?

 

can any one tell me what is the difference btw the two color on the injectors being yellow and green? also what is recemended should i change one and buy new or change all 6 and buy reman?

 

NEVER buy reman injectors. End Of Story. unless you like spending a day or two every few months replacing them under warranty, hoping they get the shipping right every time, buying new gaskets every time, and missing the race/game/party/sex/whatever that you'd have otherwise been able to participate in, if you weren't replacing those injectors again.

the colors have something to do with the way they spray fuel or something like that. if you mis-match them then some cylinders will be richer or leaner than others, which could potentially mess up the engine if left that way for a long time, and at the very least, you'll have less power and worse MPG than you would on a matched set.

 

The deal with remans is that some people are cheap (ok most people) and they don't care if they have to do the job multiple times.
The side feed injector design is more resistant to being rebuilt successfully than the more common top feed design. many top feed injectors have been "rebuilt" and work just fine.
the 3rd gen uses a side feed which fails electrically rather than being plugged up. electrical failures can't be fixed. dirt can.

 

good to know, i guess i will just do the one, ok heres the thing. every time i took a car for diagnostic the people pluged a computer and checked what was the errror msg. this guy who said the #4 injector is bad i never saw him connecting any electrical equipment. he said he did a commpression test and some other thing and he charged me $65.00. also FYI the other day when i was trying to answear the question about what color dot i have on my injectors i found the wire on one of the injectors was loose, it might be the #4 injector i am not sure. i connected the wire and drove the car still same problem lots of shaking. what do you say should i take it to some other guy or back to him and make sure its the #4 injector i need to change.

 

our cars are not OBDII so the codes aren't as detailed. for someone to diagnose a bad injector you don't have to plug in a connector.. you just do a balance-load test (unplug spark plug or injector one at a time until you find the cylinder that doesn't cause the car to run worse when disabled... meaning it wasn't doing anything in the first place) to find which cylinder is bad, then you check to see if the spark plug is the problem, wire, distro cap, etc, then you check compression. if everything you check is OK but the cylinder is still dead, then it's the injector.

 

If the car is shaking BAD, then you probably have more than one bad injector..my car was still drivable with THREE bad injectors, and only had minor "shaking", that got significantly worse when the 4th one would fade out and back in..