I have play in my steering system. It is not the outer tie rod ends, so it must be either the inner tie rod ends or a bad rack and pinion. How can you tell which one is bad?

Thanks in advance,
Gears

 

Have someone turn the steering wheel an inch or so in both directions while you watch.

 

If you have a 2002, it's unlikely it is the rack. I vote for inner tie rods. Change them, the car will feel much better.

 

what exactly are you looking for when you watch the person turn the wheel? to make sure the wheels move on the outside?

 

You lift vehicle up and grab tire from 3 oclock and 9 oclock and slightly jerking it without actually moving the rack or turning the other wheel. You want to feel play in between rack and wheel. You look for any play and slight knocking. Then you get someone else to observe if it's outter tie rod by the spindle or inner tie rod (underneath the rubber booth) He can then feel with his hand play at the booth or the outer tie rods.
You need an alignment after you replace them and the inner tie rods require you to have a special tie rod tool. I recommend lisle, cheapest and best one out there.

 

ok.. i'm gonna do that as soon as i get the chance.. so you're a nissan tech huh? hmm... any ideas on what the following problem might be... i get pretty sever "bump steer," i think they call it.. when under light acceleration, if i hit a bump, the steering wheel will jerk to the left or right, making the car feel out of control for a split second.. the feeling increases as the rate of acceleration increases.. it's so bad that it scares my passengers sometimes if i'm heavy on the accelerator.. i was told it might be my tie rod ends.. what's your opinion as a nissan tech?

also.. i can't safely accelerate heavy in 2nd gear if the wheel is turned at all... for instance if i try to switch lanes while accelerating in 2nd gear between 20 and 40mph, the wheel will start to go crazy (almost like torque steer, but in second gear), and it's hard to keep in it in line.. it doesn't feel normal.. could that be the tie rod ends too?

 

i suspect you have a suspension issue. Assuming all suspension components ok (no play)
Has the car ever been involved in a front end collision? If so your caster might be positive excessivly causing you to have a "wondering" steering. Imagine the casters of a shopping cart going all over the place when you push it forward -hence the term caster.

If they are both out by the same amount (front end collision) they could both be out EQUALLY without your vehicle actually pulling.
If that is the case it is not adjustable (easily - unless your own vehicle perhaps)
A pull of the frame in the right place would fix it providing the readings are off like i explained.

 

i just changed my outer tie rod end, thread it to the position of the original part put i'm still getting highway vibration so I'm curious if I need to replace the whole tie rod since the arm with the boot doesn't offer me any resistance when I drop it from my hand(it's off the outer tie rod end). Are the ball joints on the other side suppose to give some resistance and keep the arm in place?

 

How do you know your vibration is not coming from a bad tire, bent wheel, or other suspension component? How did you narrow it down to your tie rods?

 

didn't mean to hijack but just to answer, I didn't mean to replace the outer tie rod end until I busted the original one during removal

 

I just got a full alignment at Sears and ever since then I get this jerk to the left or right too! EXACTLY HOW YOU ARE DESCRIBING IT. Under light acceleration, expecially on the freeway the car goes out of control, first left, then right and then everything mellows out. Did you find the right answer? Was it the castor setting like the other guy suggested? Please help! A mechanic is suggesting a whole rack and pinion replacement?!

Thanks.

 

Look at the caster reading on your print-out. Are they within range?
I don't think the rack would cause this. Racks are usually replaced only when they leak or if one or more of the internal valves go bad.

 

Hi, Just pulled my spec sheet.
caster: Front Left 2.2 degrees :: Front Right 2.6 degrees

Both have specified ranges of 2.0 to 3.5 degrees

Something called "Cross Caster" Front -0.4 degrees
Specified Range of -0.8 to 0.8 degrees.

On the rears there are only camber and toe settings.

My casters are all within "specified range"

Thanks.

 

you don\t need a whole new rack. it's gotta be something he missed. It could be even a bearing or something that has play. After an alignment you have to jolt the car up and down while you have the targets on to see if it stays within range. Of course before even doing the alignment you have to check for front end. |You have to lift the car off the rack with wheels in air. So some guys get "lazy" or they might not know how to do a proper alignment.
SO in other words wheel has play. You set your settings in green or specification and once that suspension part with play moves the other way it will be out of spec. Now imagine you drive highway, that tire wobbles wherever it wants to. In that case a printout is not good enough

 

I had the same problem with bump steer and a new set of tires fixed the problem. They were only about half worn, but must have been defective.

 

I'm this problem too. with my situation, my right wheel vibrates when:
1. somewhat hard braking at around 70mph
2. sometimes when accelerating
3. at around 80mph

also when i go over bumps or dips i hear and feel clunking from the front passenger side.

I just got new tire, wheels, struts and springs...so those are eliminated

anyone have any ideas?

 

...

 

x2 on the bearing. Reading, reading, reading and more reading on here leans toward the bearings being the trouble on our cars. More so if you have dropped or modified suspension. At least was for my case, and some others which led me to check mine. After I changed both front bearings the vibration and loose feelings went away.

 

Oh yeah... if you do need to replace the inner tie rods, most of the the auto stores carry it as one of their loan out tools. That way you don't have to buy it since this will probably be the only time you will use it.

 

Just don't get the one from AutoZone.

You need one like this (Lisle-brand):

 

Since there are several possibilities, im just gonna take it in for a diagnosis so that i dont spend money in the wrong place. it will only cost $45 so i figure why not. then Ill just fix it my self. good idea?

 

Maybe - you're assuming they will a) find the root cause b) know what it takes to fix it. No shop or dealer has been able to diagnose my steering problems....and here I am about to replace the rack now after practically upgrading the whole suspension. However, suspension/steering problems may be on the more difficult side to diagnose since there's a lot of factors involved.

 

true true, if the can figure it out. im gonna start with the rotors, than the bearing.

I can get all for rotors by stop tech for 355 (drilled and slotted) or brembos (cross drilled) for 390.

 

If its the rotor you could just have it turned at a brake shop for relitively cheap $15-20 for that rotor, or buy a new one for about $10 more. Although not drilled and slotted.

Just curious, why you would prefer to have the drilled and slotted. I mean I know they look bad a$$, but unless you do alot of heavy braking... I mean NASCAR Darlington braking , it wouldn't benefit a normal driver.

 

i took had it diagnosed today and they said it was the rotors...

haha. yeah... i just love the way they look, since mine are very visible, it give the car a better presence.

I really didn't know you could turn warped rotor...maybe ill try turning down the ones i have now first.

 

Cheaper for now to have'em turned. I would turn both fronts and put new pads on. If you very mech. inclined you can tear down the brakes and take the rotors to be turned off the car (cheaper) then come back and put the brakes on yourself. Otherwise if money is issue just turn that one rotor and be done with it. If you have alot of miles on the car, don't remember if you mentioned, then just buy a new rotor since it would be a good "up keep" thing at that point. GL

 

I hate to thread jack but I don't have 15 posts to start my own thread.

I am elbows deep in replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends on the wife's 01 SE. I did a lot of reading before starting and everything has been spot on from what I read. BUT, when it comes to the inner tie rod end I am not finding locking plates.

I read this thread: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/348507...maxima/page-13 which mentions them. I realize the write up is an older Gen than mine.

I am sure I don't see anything like the plates pictured or anything else that might be some sort of retaining device.

Am I missing something?

 

An inner tie rod tool will remove the tierods even with the locking plates on. They are thin gauge metal and will be destroyed, but the tierod will come off. As far as the new part? The locking plates should have come with it. You could make your own if you were really industrious. Personally, with the correct torque specs I think the locking plates are overkill. That being said, I replaced mine with the new ones that came with the new tierods.

 

Thanks!

 

My NAPA brand inner tie rod ends (for a 2002 Maxima) did not come with locking plates. It came with Permabond thread adhesive (thread locker). You could use Permatex brand thread locker which is commonly available in blue (med. strength) or red (high strength).

If I am not mistaken, the locking plate looks like a washer with some tabs bent upward to lock onto the nut. If the old ones are still there, you might be able to bend the tabs back in place so you could reuse them. This isnt the best way but if you are desperate...

I would do both things if possible. Keep fighting on your project. I am in deep right now on an exhaust project for my Mustang. I know how you feel.

Gears

 

My new tie rod ends, Moog, did not come with plates. They did come with red thread lock.

I had to go out and purchase a tool today. All the rental tools sucked. I'll just take the tie rods out out and see if locking plates come out too.

Thanks again.

 

I got the job done. It's all about having the right tool! I bought the inner tie rod end tool from Harbor Freight. It was actually a very good piece.

Anyway, my tie rod ends did not have any kind of locking plate on them. Just thought I would update this thread with that informaton.

Thanks again everyone!