Weight Total Reduced to: 3200lbs
3.0L Engine, 125k, Automatic, A33 chassis

Modifications:

(Engine)
Intake
Cattman Y-Pipe
High-Flow Cat
Tsudo 2.5" B-Pipe
Tsudo 2.5" Mid-Pipe
Tsudo 2.5" Exhaust
Apexi VAFC-II - (tuned)
Lightweight UDP
2* Timing Advance
Throttle Body By-Pass
Low-Temp Thermostat
Red-Line Wet Wetter (-20 coolant temp drop)

(Transmission)
Valve Body Mod (Stage II)
Street Edge 2900 High Stall Torque Converter
Drop-Resistor Mod

(Weight Reduction)
Stock - 3600+ with me in it + car seat
Reduced to - 3200 with me in it.

(Suspension)

Lowered 1.4" all the way around, Vogtland Springs.


Previous 1/4 mile results - 16.1 - Stock
Previous 1/4 mile results - 15.7 - Intake, Hi-flow Cat, and Drop Resistor mod
Previous 1/4 mile results - ???? - Intake, Cat, Drop Resistor, Y-Pipe, 2.5" full cb exhaust (14.9's - 15.3, im predicting?)
Previous 1/4 mile results - ???? - Everything stated in the list above, including full-tune, torque converter, vb mod, time adv, thermostat, ect, ect


Can it be done?

 

Not trying to be negative, but at that weight and with those mods, No!!! If you really want to better your chances get a real good set of tires/rims and go on a cool night.

 

Oxymoron.

IMO, anythings possible, but what you have there is highly unlikely. The A33NA4AT3L combo just isn't very easy to make near 13 second passes.

Also, make sure the DA is as friendly as possible, and you have a fair amount of traction.

That might be the kicker right there.


And PM sloppymax , he'd have some good pointers.

 

wtf2threads!!

 

nitrous for the ftw

 

a 150 wet shot and youll hit that no problem

 

where are you located? I don't think you'll be able to pull that kind of time out of that kind of setup but stranger things have happened.

 

I can appreciate what you are saying, but just to clarify, that weight reduction to 3200 is appoximating. Losing my stock 17's and replacing them with a lightweight rim and tire is one of my first steps though.

Thanks for your help!

 

When you ran your testing on the Autozone filter and MAF only, where did you relocate your IAT sensor?

 

well if you do ill be a happy man, but i saw 15.7 with intake and high flow cat, im now doing 15.1 with intake stock cat and catback, my goal isnt even 13's more so mid to low 14's but please keep us posted cause if you do, then i have new goals, BTW whats the fastest 5th gen auto???

 

The IAT sensor is clipped to the MAF sensor, so I did not have to relocate anything.

If I did have a detached IAT, I would just zip tie it somewhere near the filter, like I do on my 4th gen.

Keep in mind, when you remove the PCV mechanism from your intake in between the MAF & TB, the car will idle lean. And since I know you don't have headers, this may damage your precats and lead to costly repairs.

 

I think you're going to need to spray to pull into the 13s with that setup.

 

Just to clarify for you guys who have a hard-on for spray....

I plan on keeping this completely NA while trying to break into the upper 13's.

Why would I want to use spray if Im trying to put a setup together first, without headers?

Why wouldnt I just add headers to get me there?

 

Im using Dandymax's setup on his 3.0 as somewhat of a guideline to my setup, and the fact that Neal was able to hit a 14.2's in his stock 3.0 5speed GXE.

Although Im auto 4AT, I believe with the torque converter, vb mod, and drop resistor mod, I should be fine, off the line, imo.

Im just trying to avoid putting in headers to find out where I really stand at with this setup and how far I can really push it.

Tbh though, I'd rather just do a 3.5 swap if ever decided to go the VQ35Cam + headers route.

Here is the guideline I was referring to:

DandyMax 12.83 1/4 mile time:
Ok here's the mods list (as of Sept 29/07):

VQ30DE-K Swap
VQ35 Rev-up oil pump w/ low pressure cut off switch
VQ35 JWT S1 cams (JDM knockoffs)
VQ35HR valve springs and retainers, double shimmed
Mild head work
Unorthodox flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 clutch
Greddy EManage Ultimate
Pathfinder TB
Motostorm UDP
Custom intake w/ MAF delete
Cattman headers/y-pipe/catback (plus cutout)
Low temp T-stat
Deadhead fuel rail w/ adjustable FPR
Some weight reduction
K-Sport coilovers
Belts: alternator only
Full ES bushing set and motor mounts
24.5x8.5x15 M&H slicks on 15x7 Kosei's
Courtesy STS



As you see, nothing is impossible.

 

Because headers wont get you there.

 

Dandys car also weighed around 2800 pounds IIRC. It will be alot of work and money just to break 13's N/A. If you can do it I'd definatly be impressed especially since most people dont put alot into 5th gens.

 

if you're using DandyMax's set-up as a guideline, you have a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG way to go.

Also:

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...07&postcount=3




Unless the next post by the OP is a timeslip w/ the aforementioned mods,

 

Yay, I learned something new today... Adding a y-pipe and a cat-back to an NA 3.0L Maxima can subtract up to 0.8 seconds off of your 1/4 mile time.

 

Good for you.



Obviously something is not right.

 

I know where Im at and I know where Im headed with this setup.....Currently im about halfway there, and working at a machine shop helps a bit too.

I'll be sure to look you up when I hit 13.9's NA...

 

^^^Dude we are not saying that you cannot hit 13's NA. That part is not hard to swallow. Just like Nmex stated, you have a long way to go and honestly nowhere near to Dandy's setup. There is one thing that jumps out on dandy's list that you don't have and is a very important key when used properly. Just go to the track with the setup you have and let us know what the outcome is.

 

Hit me up and include an updated mod list, because it is just not happening w/your current 4AT / mod / chassis set-up. Unless you strapped the DEK to a milk crate for a seat during an unusually cold high pressure / low humidity weather event and tossed some 14" slicks on it.

Until then

 

My 96 as an auto would have been able to run high 13's with a high stall converter and sticky tires on top of everything else I had at the time, but I decided to do a 5spd swap and it was the best mod I have ever done to date.

 

What you need to do is get all the mods you mentioned on your car and take it to the track on a good (cool as possible, low RH as possible, maybe a decent tailwind) day.

Make sure you have some decent traction, and if you don't know your traction threshold, then practice until you find it. See what works best for you (tire pressure, launch RPM, technique, etc)

In your case, (DEK + 4AT) it will be absolutely mandatory for you to shift @ redline(just before fuel cut) Keep in mind, humans aren't as persistent as thy should be, nor are Maxima tachometers terribly accurate either. So, there are many options & alternatives for this. Since DandyMax is your engine man idol, use Jime as your tranny man idol. He's done a HUGE amount of work / research, etc. for us 4AT'ers.

So, what advantage would you have working at a machine shop that you enable you to get better times?

Anyhow, instead of replying to the posts in here or bumping one of Jime's tranny mod threads, spend some time researching more, or work some overtime to get some more mods. All of that time spent (researching and buying new mods) will help you optimize your set-up to it's full potential. So, maybe you wont break 13's, but you will know what the limit of your current mods are.

 

like i said let me know please

 

your should get some slicks up front....maybe a little bit of spray...ull b in

 

I have no hardon for spray... Just being realistic that unless you put some serious time/money into your car like dandymax did, your best bet to reach your 13.9 goal is to spray.

With your current mod list, I'm not sure you'd even break into the 14s without perfect track conditions to help you along. Knocking another full second off will not be easy.

 

^^^ well with his mods he should easily be 14's maybe low 14's at that, let me be the first to say i wish you luck on reaching your goal, i guess anythings possible... GL