Question about Fuel Hose between Rails - Caps to hold on Injector O-rings
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 972
From: Dallas, TX
Question about Fuel Hose between Rails - Caps to hold on Injector O-rings
I'm fixing some bad injectors and had a few questions. I have both rails out and wanted to replace the fuel hoses that connect the two. The hoses are labled HIPREX-DII, and the dealer wants $65 for the 4" piece and $40 for the 2" piece.
I personally think that is ridiculous, so I'd like to know if I can replace them with generic fuel hoses. The cross-section looks like 2 rubber layers with a fiber mesh sandwitched in-between. If anyone else has replaced these hoses, what did you use?
Also, the injectors have a small cap on the botton with 4 small tabs. I'm not sure what the cap is for, but I think it either holds on the small o-ring or has something to do with the spray dispersion. Can someone tell me what they are and how to go about finding replacements? Thank you!
I personally think that is ridiculous, so I'd like to know if I can replace them with generic fuel hoses. The cross-section looks like 2 rubber layers with a fiber mesh sandwitched in-between. If anyone else has replaced these hoses, what did you use?
Also, the injectors have a small cap on the botton with 4 small tabs. I'm not sure what the cap is for, but I think it either holds on the small o-ring or has something to do with the spray dispersion. Can someone tell me what they are and how to go about finding replacements? Thank you!
I'm fixing some bad injectors and had a few questions. I have both rails out and wanted to replace the fuel hoses that connect the two. The hoses are labled HIPREX-DII, and the dealer wants $65 for the 4" piece and $40 for the 2" piece.
I personally think that is ridiculous, so I'd like to know if I can replace them with generic fuel hoses. The cross-section looks like 2 rubber layers with a fiber mesh sandwitched in-between. If anyone else has replaced these hoses, what did you use?
Also, the injectors have a small cap on the botton with 4 small tabs. I'm not sure what the cap is for, but I think it either holds on the small o-ring or has something to do with the spray dispersion. Can someone tell me what they are and how to go about finding replacements? Thank you!
I personally think that is ridiculous, so I'd like to know if I can replace them with generic fuel hoses. The cross-section looks like 2 rubber layers with a fiber mesh sandwitched in-between. If anyone else has replaced these hoses, what did you use?
Also, the injectors have a small cap on the botton with 4 small tabs. I'm not sure what the cap is for, but I think it either holds on the small o-ring or has something to do with the spray dispersion. Can someone tell me what they are and how to go about finding replacements? Thank you!
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 972
From: Dallas, TX
will do....so what about those little things on the bottom of the injectors? I know people have commented about them because I remember reading about them. What are they for?
called pintle caps and iirc they hold the small o-ring in place so it doesn't fall into the intake port in the head during installation. big o-ring is for the rail part of the injector.
You know I hadn't even thought about there being a difference between standard fuel hose and fuel injector fuel hose. I think I replaced mine with just regular fuel line hose. Luckily (NOT) I've had to take my intake etc. back off to replace a bad reman injector. So this time I'll ask specifically for fuel injection hose.
Although the hose I have didn't have any problem when I started and ran the car for a day or two, I guess over time the hoses might give in to the pressure.
Although the hose I have didn't have any problem when I started and ran the car for a day or two, I guess over time the hoses might give in to the pressure.
Last edited by dougb110; May 14, 2008 at 06:55 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 972
From: Dallas, TX
got it. I got a foot for free from a local injector shop I work with for my job. Now I need to source those pintle caps. I'll probably just go with docinjector.com, but he wants $19.95 for all 6 and it's $16 to get them here by the weekend. YOUCH! Oh well.....I need them.
got it. I got a foot for free from a local injector shop I work with for my job. Now I need to source those pintle caps. I'll probably just go with docinjector.com, but he wants $19.95 for all 6 and it's $16 to get them here by the weekend. YOUCH! Oh well.....I need them.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 972
From: Dallas, TX
yeah...I'll try that. On a side note the injectors I had shipped off a used maxima are ohming as an open circuit, so they're useless. I'm getting my money back. Brian, looks like I'm buying two new injectors from you! Please ship ASAP!!
I only got in 20 minutes ago , so nothing got done today.
I think it's time to invest in a crackberry or Q.
it's the 2nd time (at least) that someone needed stuff to go out same day and I couldn't because I got the message to late
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 972
From: Dallas, TX
Damn....the car is down 5 more days!! This is terrible! Oh well...gives me time to polish my plenum and upper intake. I don't know what else to do with all this time on my hands. I already painted almost every part I could get at while the valve covers and manifolds are off. I'll post pics when it's done. It already looks so shiny! Maxus here I come.
Last edited by traxtar944; May 16, 2008 at 10:57 PM.
Damn....the car is down 5 more days!! This is terrible! Oh well...gives me time to polish my plenum and upper intake. I don't know what else to do with all this time on my hands. I already painted almost every part I could get at while the valve covers and manifolds are off. I'll post pics when it's done. It already looks so shiny! Maxus here I come.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 972
From: Dallas, TX
Opening the crankcase to clean it would be pretty much pointless, and a waste of money for all the gaskets you'd need to replace. No sense taking apart the motor unless you intend on doing a full rebuild. If you're doing a rebuild you might as well strengthen the motor for more power because it wouldn't cost you much more. Then you start talking about the car being down for weeks.
To polish the intake and plenum, I first wire brush the parts with a coarse wire wheel on a bench grinder. Then I hand sand the parts with 80,100,150,220,320 grit paper. Then I buff with a black emery, then brown rouge, then white rouge, then jewelers compounds. I need to also use a small buffer on my dremel to get in the small crevices on the throttle body and such.
I also painted gloss black the vacuum/coolant tube assembly on the right side of the engine, fuel rails, hex bolts that hold down the IACV and upper intake, power valve, accelerator linkage on the throttle body, and a few other random brackets. The EGR tube and valve also got a coat of silver header paint.
Also, the entire wiring harness was cleaned and wrapped in red electrical tape. And my carbon fiber hood arrived today!! However, there is a small gouge in it...so I'll have to take it to a body shop to have it filled with a gel coat and rear cleared. The seller is going to cover the expenses to fill the scratch, but not the clearcoat. The whole thing should look pretty nice when done.
To polish the intake and plenum, I first wire brush the parts with a coarse wire wheel on a bench grinder. Then I hand sand the parts with 80,100,150,220,320 grit paper. Then I buff with a black emery, then brown rouge, then white rouge, then jewelers compounds. I need to also use a small buffer on my dremel to get in the small crevices on the throttle body and such.
I also painted gloss black the vacuum/coolant tube assembly on the right side of the engine, fuel rails, hex bolts that hold down the IACV and upper intake, power valve, accelerator linkage on the throttle body, and a few other random brackets. The EGR tube and valve also got a coat of silver header paint.
Also, the entire wiring harness was cleaned and wrapped in red electrical tape. And my carbon fiber hood arrived today!! However, there is a small gouge in it...so I'll have to take it to a body shop to have it filled with a gel coat and rear cleared. The seller is going to cover the expenses to fill the scratch, but not the clearcoat. The whole thing should look pretty nice when done.
Last edited by traxtar944; May 17, 2008 at 11:00 PM.
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What a bunch of crooks. Got mine for $1.55 an inch at a dealership. Of course, they didn't know how much I would need so I got almost three times as much...
