So I got my brakes looked at today, and guess what...I need all new rotors AND pads, about $550 bucks worth of work. I'm grinding metal on metal.. The only brake work that has ever been done to the car is the front rotors resurfaced at 50,000 miles and all new pads at 58,000. Now I have 70k so I guess it was about time the brakes would go bad. I'm still pi$$ed though, 500 bucks?!?

I'm just gonna keep on driving it, I mean the car still stops alright, the brakes aren't great, but they still work ok....Man cars are such a pain!!!!!

 

If you want to upgrade, now is a good time

I can get you a full brake kit for less than what you were quoted for *just* the pads & rotors (kit include SS lines and Motul 600 fluid).

Trust me dude.. you don't want to mess around with your brakes. If they fail, you are screwed. You at least should fix the front since they do the majority of the braking.

 

Yeah man...go for the Stillen X-drilled Rotor Upgrade from Phuong with SS Brakelines and Axxis pads!!

I'm doing the same thing once I get new rims!

-Nick

 

Wow! What kinda shop is quoting you $500+ bucks??? Even with full install, their highest quality pads (Raybestos Quiet Stops) resurfacing rotors, and their rip off labor, Pep Boys can install each pair of brakes for $120 (front) $130 (rear) (prices are for NYC stores). I don't think new rotors are that expensive (unless it's them fancy ones..).

That shop looks like it wants to fix your wallet in addition to your brakes.
But if it's gotten down to metal on metal, you should definitely get them taken care of. Not only are you putting your life and your Max at risk... you are putting over peoples' lives at risk as well whenever you're on the road with no brakes....

 

The place I took it to was Sears Auto.....They seem pretty trustworthy...but maybe not since you guys think the price is high (thank God for the org!)....anyone know about how much ut should cost? Also, my brakes work relatively well. I mean, I'm not gonna stop side by side with a new M3 or anything but they stop fine.

 

If you use Autozone rotors with Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads you can be out the door for $174, though you have to do the work yourself, or find someone who can help you. Were are you located that a Sears store would quote you that much?

 

Wow thanks for the advice.....It's located in Knoxville, TN. I am surprized b/c they seem honest, but I guess not.

 

ghetto!

 

I don't think there are any "normal" price on brakes. It depends on your preference in terms of quality, I guess. The quality (as far as I know) depends mainly on how much dust it gives off, how much noise it might give off, and how well it stops your car. I've had brake pads replaced for as low as $50 a pair at a local mechanic (crappy ones that dusted like crazy and squealed when they got a little hot). A pair of new generic rotors I believe ran me like an extra $50 - 70. Since then, I've replaced my front pads with the Raybestos Quiet Stops (true to their word, they barely dust and do not squeal) for $120. It's a bit high since the pads themselves are like $60, but I needed it for inspection at the time...
Come to think of it, Nissan's "Premium" Brake replacement runs for about $100 a pair....
Bottom line is, you should shop around and/or research a bit on what you want and what you can spend.... The org offers lotsa good options and advice.

LOL it seems your Sears is honest about trying to rip you off down to your underwear

 

What's the full kit include? (brand, type, etc)
How much?

 

http://www.eatricezone.com/MaxBrakeSale.htm

 

wow that's a high price. New pads/rotors should run you at the most $275...using Nissan Parts! IT shouldn't take very long either; they must be charging an arm and a leg for a lot of work hours. The work is pretty easy to do yourself, but if you don't work on cars, I wouldn't suggest starting with a brake job heh.

 

Nissan wanted 700 bucks for the job....Remember, this is for all 4 rotors...still too high though, I think I'm just gonna buy some and go somewhere cheap and have them put it on.

 

I'm not cheap Austin, I will charge you out the *** for doing that brake job

no just buy me some smokes or something nice for my birthday and Christmas and we'll call it even

 

Sure I'll buy you some cigarettes.....Thanks, let me know when you can do it, they are getting worse and worse by the day, I'm just gonna get pads who cares about the rotors, they can't be that bad.....Holla....

 

Any one here has the 300Zx brakes upgrade on the maxima? I really wanna upgrade my maxima brakes caz they SUCK! my TL has sooo damn good brakes

 

What made you get your brakes inspected in the first place? Any shop will tell you need new brakes and rotords after they do a "free" inspection. It sounds like they are full sheit!

So whats wrong with your rotors and brakes right now? Are they squeking or what? If your car brakes fine that meens there is nothing wrong with your rotors, when your rotors go {AKA warp} your car will shake when hit the brakes. If your car does not shake when hit the brakes then I highly dought there is any thing wrong with your rotors.

Also don't you think it's a bit odd that your original brake pads lasted you 70K miles and your new pads supposedly are shot after only 12K miles? Strange..yes.

FYI, I have never replaced or resurfaced the rotors on my 103K mile 95 maxima, All I have done is replace my pads twice, I still ahve the original shim and brake fluid, no problems here.

 

$700 will last you another 70k miles. it's not expensive. you're not driving a sentra after all. best of all, you do not have to waste your time fiddling with the job. i will bet that you will also not have squeaky pads and warped rotors.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by emax95
[B]


So whats wrong with your rotors and brakes right now? Are they squeking or what? If your car brakes fine that meens there is nothing wrong with your rotors, when your rotors go {AKA warp} your car will shake when hit the brakes. If your car does not shake when hit the brakes then I highly dought there is any thing wrong with your rotors.

Ahem small correction..........my car's rotor's are gone such that the brake pad's have ground a groove into the rotor itself. Some shop told me i needed two front caliper's,four rotor's and pad's all for $600.the jury is still out on that.

When i hit the brakes the car stop's in a straight line are my rotor's wrapped or not?

 

You do not have to go to Sears for a brake check. This is something you should do every so often. I love the maximas 4 wheel Disc brakes. For those with Se rims or spoke type rims you can tell how thin your pad gets without removing the wheel. Also, throwing in brake pads is really easy with the Maxima. All you need is a 14MM wrench and a C-clamp to push the brake caliper piston back. I changed all 4 last weekend and cost me less than 40 dollars.

 

Fixed my problem for 50 bucks, not 600!!! HAHA I'm glad I didn't let anyone rip me off. I put some new pads on and they work great, no more noises, and the car stops great, thanks Jon!!!!!!!!!

 

A correction, on the rear pads, in order to push the piston back you need a piston tool to screw the piston in. You can find it at most auto parts stores.

 

DO NOT get the cheap brake pads from Advance Auto. My EBC green stuff pads wore out unexpectedly and I was stuck with the $18.95 specials. They were horrible. I felt like an accident waiting to happened. One panic stop and they started to fade.

I went with Porterfield R4S. Those pads in combination with my s.s. lines and my powerstop drilled rotors stop the Max on a dime. No worries.

Please don't take your brakes lightly. Basically, they stop your car by converting kinetic energy to heat. If the brakes can't get rid of the heat fast enough/resist heat buildup, they fade and fail. Metal on metal will heat and fade in a hearbeat and you will slide through a red light and get killed.

Peace.

 

Or you can just use needle nose plyers, they work just fine.

 

I had to use the special tool on my 3rdGen. The pliers couldn't find a grip and the kept wanting to slip and damage the piston seal.

 

You mean I put on new pads *****

 

I said thanks Vonjonna. Jeez you're a gina. J/k thanks!!!!!

 

once you have metal to metal contact does that mean you at least have to get them resurfaced? why not replace just the ones that are damaged. maybe the rears are fine, since most of the work is done by the fronts.

 

They were to worn down to turn, but MaxedOut97SE is to cheap to buy anything let alone rotors, he didn't even want to pay for pads, a whole $50bucks
Austin is a cheapA$$

 

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