My outer passenger side boot needs replacement. The boot may have been torn a while but I'm going to gamble and just replace the boot. I don't recall hearing clicking but I'll test it before I change it. Shouldn't I see visable damage if the cv axle really needs to be replaced? Anyway, I've changed all 4 boots at once in the past when 1 was torn, but decided just to do the boots mainly because I wanted my original axles and I'm cheap like that. I had a tough time that first time around and vowed I'd replace just the boots again. Here I am about 4 years later, time to attack it again. This time however, I'm only going to change the passenger side since I don't have too much time.

I tired calling raxles.com to see how much the axles would be but the guy said it wouldn't be worth it for me because of the shipping charges to and from Hawaii. I also asked if he just sold the boots and he said no. But the funny thing was, he made it seem like it was almost impossible to remove the hub part from the axle (my terminology might be wrong). I told him I replaced just the boots once in the past and he asked how I removed it. I did have a hard time, and I ended up using a piece of wood and a sledge hammer to whack it off. There was a write up a long time ago that I can't find and that fella did that. IMHO, That write up was better than the motorvate one. I bought the boots from NAPA today but I'm going to inquire at our stealership to see if their boot kit comes with the c clips. If it does, I'll buy those and return the NAPA ones. Sorry but this became a long winded post. Thanks for reading.

 

I dont know what motorvates' method is but here is how I do it...works good:
anchor the shaft in a vice , then as I pull on the actual joint I hit the top of the joint perpendicular to the shaft . I mean I DONT hit he end of the joint like I am trying to beat it off, I hit the joint as if I were driving a nail through it. this method also avoids damage to the joint and the clip.
hope this helps

about inspecting the joint, once its all cleaned up feel the surfaces for any grooves or imperfections,they should be smooth. and also check that the bearings turn freely

 

Thanks for the tip.

I called my stealership and they didn't have the boots in stock. I couldn't wait so I just went with the NAPA one. Turns out the NAPA one had everything (all clips and cotter pin too).

Cracking the 36mm (wrench size) nut was pretty hard. Had to put a extension to the breaker bar. I forgot that the 3, 10mm bolts were in a tight spot, but it came out. Used my 1/4" drive swivel head rachet. Took some slight maneuvering of the caliper/rotor assembly but the whole axle came out without too much fight. Since I didn't have a slide hammer I went straight to the vice and sledge hammer like the last time and took a couple whacks and it came off. (I might have to get a slide hammer, seems like a lot of manuals refer to it) I bought some turpentine like the motorvate writeup to soak the outer hub in. Stunk like hell and I had it soaked in there for over 15 min. Didn't do too well in removing the grease. I think the liquid gal can of "Gunk" would of been better. It losened it up but still had a good layer attached to it, so I took it all apart and wiped the old grease off. The surfaces were smooth so no damages. I had a hard time putting the ***** back in but eventually got it. Installed and greased all the parts as written in motorvate writeup and put the hubs back together. Again, with some maneuvering, the axle went into the tranny and the caliper assembly went on too.

Overall, it wasn't too bad. Would I do just the boots next time, YES.

Thanks for reading.

 

Do you have to drain the gear oil as indicated on motorvate? Thanks?

 

I didnt on my auto and was fine. I drained the gear oil on my 5spd before i pulled them cuz I dropped the trans anyway. So I dont know about the 5spd.

 

It's easiest to drain the gear oil ahead of time, use the axle replacement as an excuse to change it. If not, you'll get a bit of gear oil coming out when you yank the axle.

You have gear oil in your automatic?

 

LOL I started out by replying to the first post.

The oil level is supposed to be right at/below the axle. If the car is not level or you have slightly extra oil, it will leak. In any case I completely agree with pmohr it's the perfect time to replace the fluid.

Take care as always to drain it from the proper location. Many 5sp owners break their position sensor because they use it as a drain plug and they dont' realize how fragile it is. Use the actual 12mm drain plug if at all possible.

Dave

 

hahaha. no. guess I should clarify. I didn't drain the ATF in my 96 auto and none came out the axle holes.

I did drain the gear oil in my 97 5spd. So I don't know if blah888 needs to drain the gear oil out of a 5spd so he doesn't make a mess.

Thanks for the catch pmohr!