when ur gonna race with an auto from a standing positiion
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
I usually take it to 6000rpm then shift to 2nd.N/M
N/M
Originally posted by tunedup
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
same with 2 to drive ??? 6000 rpm?
N/M
Originally posted by Jose
N/M
N/M
Originally posted by tunedup
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
Re: Yep!!!! Caution this might be a Hazzard to your Tranny->
I am on my 2nd Tranny so be careful. I don't really know if manual shifting cause my tranny to go but I use to do it all the time.
Originally posted by tunedup
N/M
N/M
Originally posted by Jose
N/M
N/M
Originally posted by tunedup
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
how much did it cost u ??? :(
ouch man musta been angry ... ive never seen a dead tranny like wut happens ... it just stops working >? n e symptoms i cna look for
Originally posted by Jose
I am on my 2nd Tranny so be careful. I don't really know if manual shifting cause my tranny to go but I use to do it all the time.
I am on my 2nd Tranny so be careful. I don't really know if manual shifting cause my tranny to go but I use to do it all the time.
Originally posted by tunedup
N/M
N/M
Originally posted by Jose
N/M
N/M
Originally posted by tunedup
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
Re: Repaired under Warranty!!!!->
Originally posted by tunedup
ouch man musta been angry ... ive never seen a dead tranny like wut happens ... it just stops working >? n e symptoms i cna look for
Don't worry you would know when your tranny blows. My first warning was when I was stuck in bumper to bumper traffic when it was time for me to move off the car didn't move. The Idle went up car was motionless then all of a sudden the tranny caught the gear screech tires lit up.
Very scary because I had to slam on the brakes to prevent running into the car in front of me.
ouch man musta been angry ... ive never seen a dead tranny like wut happens ... it just stops working >? n e symptoms i cna look for
Don't worry you would know when your tranny blows. My first warning was when I was stuck in bumper to bumper traffic when it was time for me to move off the car didn't move. The Idle went up car was motionless then all of a sudden the tranny caught the gear screech tires lit up.
Very scary because I had to slam on the brakes to prevent running into the car in front of me.
Originally posted by Jose
I am on my 2nd Tranny so be careful. I don't really know if manual shifting cause my tranny to go but I use to do it all the time.
I am on my 2nd Tranny so be careful. I don't really know if manual shifting cause my tranny to go but I use to do it all the time.
Originally posted by tunedup
N/M
N/M
Originally posted by Jose
N/M
N/M
Originally posted by tunedup
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
is it best to take o/d off adn stick it into 1st
can someone give methe tiems to change the gears with an auto
like
put it into first
pop it into second once u reach 5500... then pop in to d when ureach... 5000
like the best time to change to get the most advantage u can get
I believe its best to just leave in D and >>>
stomp on the gas. I don't remember who but someone on the board while back ago went to the track to test out the time diff between manually shifting and letting the ECU do it. He actually lost like .2-.3 secs when he manually shifted the gears. He shifted up when the rpms reached around 6000-6200(there's actually a split sec delay after you move the shift lever until the car actually shifts, so if you shift at 6000, the car would shift at around 6500). If you ever seen the dyno graph, 4th gen engines hp drops off after 5600 so its actually not that beneficial to take it up to the redline. I say shift around 6200 or 6300.
ouch i wish i had that kinda warranty

Originally posted by Jose
I think its 5 years or 60,000 miles.
I think its 5 years or 60,000 miles.
Originally posted by tunedup
how long was the warranty on ur car..
i doubt i still got warranty
its a 95 gle .
how long was the warranty on ur car..
i doubt i still got warranty
its a 95 gle .
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,344
Leave it in Drive...the key is to brake torque >
This is what I do when I'm racing. Put your left foot on the brake and press the gas to bring the RPM up to around 2000rpm. When the light turns green, stomp it and lift your left foot off the brake. You should get a little chrip, but not too much. Forget manual shifting...People that manual shift usually breaks their tranny.
so what ur sayin is that manual shifting isnt gonna give u a better acceleration...
Originally posted by 1MAX2NV
This is what I do when I'm racing. Put your left foot on the brake and press the gas to bring the RPM up to around 2000rpm. When the light turns green, stomp it and lift your left foot off the brake. You should get a little chrip, but not too much. Forget manual shifting...People that manual shift usually breaks their tranny.
This is what I do when I'm racing. Put your left foot on the brake and press the gas to bring the RPM up to around 2000rpm. When the light turns green, stomp it and lift your left foot off the brake. You should get a little chrip, but not too much. Forget manual shifting...People that manual shift usually breaks their tranny.
you really want to drive your car like a stick?
then get a stick..
manually changin the gears in an auto is going to kill the tranny...
just get Don's Valve body mod and have ur self some fun..
tho it won't be the same as a 5spd, it'll give you some peace of mind that ur car has a little somthing to make it shift faster...
then get a stick..
manually changin the gears in an auto is going to kill the tranny...
just get Don's Valve body mod and have ur self some fun..
tho it won't be the same as a 5spd, it'll give you some peace of mind that ur car has a little somthing to make it shift faster...
dons valve body mod ???
never heard of tha b4...
whats it do ..
how much and where do i get it from
its not worth for me to get a stick now ... its a 95 i give the car another 2 yr not worth the money
whats it do ..
how much and where do i get it from
its not worth for me to get a stick now ... its a 95 i give the car another 2 yr not worth the money
Originally posted by Chebosto
you really want to drive your car like a stick?
then get a stick..
manually changin the gears in an auto is going to kill the tranny...
just get Don's Valve body mod and have ur self some fun..
tho it won't be the same as a 5spd, it'll give you some peace of mind that ur car has a little somthing to make it shift faster...
you really want to drive your car like a stick?
then get a stick..
manually changin the gears in an auto is going to kill the tranny...
just get Don's Valve body mod and have ur self some fun..
tho it won't be the same as a 5spd, it'll give you some peace of mind that ur car has a little somthing to make it shift faster...
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: dons valve body mod ???
It modifies the valve body on your tranny so that it supposedly shifts faster than a 5spd(given human error) It is like 450.00 and you have to send him your VB. Turnaround is like 3 days total...really not bad. Everyone I talk to that has it LOVES it....that's my next move. 30 days and counting till that bonus check!
Guest
Posts: n/a
I got the Valve Body
Don, now has a core, so you don't have to be without a car for the VB swap. It is $450, but that included the shipping, and it cost me about $15 to send back my original.
I do shift it manually at 6200 rpm. It used to take 500 rpm before it would shift, now with the VB upgrade it shifts in about 200 rpm. By itself it will shift at 6000 I was slowly getting slower E.T.s, but I think that it is from wearing out the clutches on the tranny. After the VB, since it shifts so much faster, and about 3 to 4 times harder, I don't feel that loss of power anymore. His upgrade makes it so that your tranny can handle extra power upgrades, and more racing without problems. Everyones problem used to be due to the factory clutches burning up due to slipping the clutches. With this upgrade it shifts so much faster and firmer, that the clutches are not being slowly engaged anymore, so there is less wear. Don runs in the 13s with his car, an auto!
By power torquing the motor and letting the car shift itself. I could only get 16.85 e.t.s in the 1/4. When I shifted it manually, and power torqued off the line, I then got consistant 16.35s. When just flooring it off the line I ran 17.3 to 17.5s. I now with my mods ran 5 consistant 15.9 to 16.1s at the last TEST and TUNE by manual shifting. Level 10 Performance has an upgraded Torque Converter with a higher stall speed, and better clutches that is supposed to guarantee you .5 second improvements on 1/4 mile runs, or your MONEY BACK! This will big time increase the power handling, and performance of your tranny, making better use of the motors power, just like a stick. It cost $598, and needs no core. About $450 for a shop to install the new T.C. This is next on my list!
Yes racing your auto will burn it up faster due to cheap clutches, but if you want to know exactly what to do to handle high power, check the posts written by me, and read the one "For you Auto Guys", I got a complete run down on auto modifications!
I do shift it manually at 6200 rpm. It used to take 500 rpm before it would shift, now with the VB upgrade it shifts in about 200 rpm. By itself it will shift at 6000 I was slowly getting slower E.T.s, but I think that it is from wearing out the clutches on the tranny. After the VB, since it shifts so much faster, and about 3 to 4 times harder, I don't feel that loss of power anymore. His upgrade makes it so that your tranny can handle extra power upgrades, and more racing without problems. Everyones problem used to be due to the factory clutches burning up due to slipping the clutches. With this upgrade it shifts so much faster and firmer, that the clutches are not being slowly engaged anymore, so there is less wear. Don runs in the 13s with his car, an auto!
By power torquing the motor and letting the car shift itself. I could only get 16.85 e.t.s in the 1/4. When I shifted it manually, and power torqued off the line, I then got consistant 16.35s. When just flooring it off the line I ran 17.3 to 17.5s. I now with my mods ran 5 consistant 15.9 to 16.1s at the last TEST and TUNE by manual shifting. Level 10 Performance has an upgraded Torque Converter with a higher stall speed, and better clutches that is supposed to guarantee you .5 second improvements on 1/4 mile runs, or your MONEY BACK! This will big time increase the power handling, and performance of your tranny, making better use of the motors power, just like a stick. It cost $598, and needs no core. About $450 for a shop to install the new T.C. This is next on my list!
Yes racing your auto will burn it up faster due to cheap clutches, but if you want to know exactly what to do to handle high power, check the posts written by me, and read the one "For you Auto Guys", I got a complete run down on auto modifications!
Re: I got the Valve Body
Originally posted by hodgeee
Don, now has a core, so you don't have to be without a car for the VB swap. It is $450, but that included the shipping, and it cost me about $15 to send back my original.
I do shift it manually at 6200 rpm. It used to take 500 rpm before it would shift, now with the VB upgrade it shifts in about 200 rpm. By itself it will shift at 6000 I was slowly getting slower E.T.s, but I think that it is from wearing out the clutches on the tranny. After the VB, since it shifts so much faster, and about 3 to 4 times harder, I don't feel that loss of power anymore. His upgrade makes it so that your tranny can handle extra power upgrades, and more racing without problems. Everyones problem used to be due to the factory clutches burning up due to slipping the clutches. With this upgrade it shifts so much faster and firmer, that the clutches are not being slowly engaged anymore, so there is less wear. Don runs in the 13s with his car, an auto!
By power torquing the motor and letting the car shift itself. I could only get 16.85 e.t.s in the 1/4. When I shifted it manually, and power torqued off the line, I then got consistant 16.35s. When just flooring it off the line I ran 17.3 to 17.5s. I now with my mods ran 5 consistant 15.9 to 16.1s at the last TEST and TUNE by manual shifting. Level 10 Performance has an upgraded Torque Converter with a higher stall speed, and better clutches that is supposed to guarantee you .5 second improvements on 1/4 mile runs, or your MONEY BACK! This will big time increase the power handling, and performance of your tranny, making better use of the motors power, just like a stick. It cost $598, and needs no core. About $450 for a shop to install the new T.C. This is next on my list!
Yes racing your auto will burn it up faster due to cheap clutches, but if you want to know exactly what to do to handle high power, check the posts written by me, and read the one "For you Auto Guys", I got a complete run down on auto modifications!
Don, now has a core, so you don't have to be without a car for the VB swap. It is $450, but that included the shipping, and it cost me about $15 to send back my original.
I do shift it manually at 6200 rpm. It used to take 500 rpm before it would shift, now with the VB upgrade it shifts in about 200 rpm. By itself it will shift at 6000 I was slowly getting slower E.T.s, but I think that it is from wearing out the clutches on the tranny. After the VB, since it shifts so much faster, and about 3 to 4 times harder, I don't feel that loss of power anymore. His upgrade makes it so that your tranny can handle extra power upgrades, and more racing without problems. Everyones problem used to be due to the factory clutches burning up due to slipping the clutches. With this upgrade it shifts so much faster and firmer, that the clutches are not being slowly engaged anymore, so there is less wear. Don runs in the 13s with his car, an auto!
By power torquing the motor and letting the car shift itself. I could only get 16.85 e.t.s in the 1/4. When I shifted it manually, and power torqued off the line, I then got consistant 16.35s. When just flooring it off the line I ran 17.3 to 17.5s. I now with my mods ran 5 consistant 15.9 to 16.1s at the last TEST and TUNE by manual shifting. Level 10 Performance has an upgraded Torque Converter with a higher stall speed, and better clutches that is supposed to guarantee you .5 second improvements on 1/4 mile runs, or your MONEY BACK! This will big time increase the power handling, and performance of your tranny, making better use of the motors power, just like a stick. It cost $598, and needs no core. About $450 for a shop to install the new T.C. This is next on my list!
Yes racing your auto will burn it up faster due to cheap clutches, but if you want to know exactly what to do to handle high power, check the posts written by me, and read the one "For you Auto Guys", I got a complete run down on auto modifications!
what year is your max and what mods do you have besides the VB upgrade??
Re: dons valve body mod ???
Don In Texas's vb mod eliminates the lag between shifts in autos.. makes it shift faster, and in don's max actually got him like .6s more i think. (forgot)
Hes sellin them for $450, he ships you the vb, you swap out yours for his, and send him yours. (general overview, to get the vb he wants a CC just incase u dont send one back, he can charge you 500 for the vb)
You can find him on this board and personal msg him, i forgot his email.
id get one but im poor. :> really really want one.
Hes sellin them for $450, he ships you the vb, you swap out yours for his, and send him yours. (general overview, to get the vb he wants a CC just incase u dont send one back, he can charge you 500 for the vb)
You can find him on this board and personal msg him, i forgot his email.
id get one but im poor. :> really really want one.
shifting an auto is crazy talk...
if u want ur tranny to die..than thats a good way of doing it...i'd never do that..just listen to ur engine..my friend has a civic and he does that all the time.sounds like his engine is going to blow. anyways..i just floor it..my tires chirp, and i take off...i rather lose by a hood-length than lose my tranny...
don't floor it
try not to floor it once the light turns. step down on the gas about an inch once the las yellow light goes out, then mash the thing. that way you wheel doesn't spin and you get traction all the way.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: I got the Valve Body
Originally posted by Chris91SE
what year is your max and what mods do you have besides the VB upgrade?? [/I]
what year is your max and what mods do you have besides the VB upgrade?? [/I]
Stillen Universal Y-pipe
Random Technologies 2.5" High flow Cat
Stillen B-pipe
Magnaflow muffler
Only thing original on the exhaust is the Manifolds.
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