wats up org member's simple question, how much have u guys replaced ur rear valve cover gaskets for? and did u try doing it urself at all? and if u dont replace it how bad can the leak become thanks you all for ur time

 

I did it myself. Actually, that leak was the best thing that ever happened to my car - I used it as an opportunity to install the 00VI, since I had to remove the upper intake manifold to replace the gasket anyway.

Even with limited experience, I think you can get that job done in about 5 or 6 hours. Best approach for removing the upper IM? Just look at it, and start unbolting stuff until it comes off . Sounds , but it's true . Label all of the vacuum hoses that you remove, and keep track of all bolts. The FSM has a bunch of diagrams that will help you to label things and get everything reconnected properly. If you decide to do it yourself post back here and I'll see if I can come up with the pages that I used when I did it. Be careful when removing the coolant hoses running into the firewall. The neck of the heater core is very brittle, and snaps easily. Be sure to replace the spark plug tube seals too.

If you don't replace the gasket, the leak can become pretty bad. There was a thread on here a while back where a member had a quick, steady drip of oil from the cover when the engine was running .

If you choose to take it to a shop, I think you'll be looking at about $325 for the job..

 

exactly what i did. perfect excuse to get the 00vi IMO.
took me around 8hrs but thats b/c of multiple breaks and what not.
just label everything, don't loose any of the screw and you'll be fine

make sure you use gasket sealant

 

Did not do it myself... the car had to go in for another reason and I had both VC gaskets replaced at that time. Both gaskets cost right around $500.00. The rear is more labor intensive so I'd bet that one alone would be about $350.00.

My leak... from the rear VC... was quite severe. I was loosing nearly a half an ounce (1/2 of a shot glass) of oil per operating day. Oil was friggin pouring out. The longer you wait, the worse it's gonna get and it can get pretty bad.

 

Why would you remove the heater hoses? There's no reason to remove those at all.

It's a relatively simple job, but the rear support bolts can be a PITA if you don't have the right tools (or know how to do it quickly), same for the EGR-UIM bolts. There are only a few vacuum lines to deal with to the UIM; brake booster, FPR, EVAP, EGR. The 'hardest' part is going to be the rear coolant hose that runs past the EGR tube, just because you've got to get a tricky angle on it.

 

Why? Because there was no way that I was getting the rear pass. side UIM bolt off with the heater core line in place (I only had to remove the upper one). Others have had to remove it too. There simply wasn't enough room to get the ratchet on the bolt and turn it. Not everyone can get the UIM off with a set of pliers and a flat head screwdriver, you know.

 

i used a simple combination wrench to get the two bolts on the bracket. I left the hoses on.


Mine was leaking real bad at this corner.


Make sure you replace the sparkplug tube seals, there the 3 black round things in the valve cover. I also placed my gaskets in the sun to heat them up. Don't forget the radio, i need tunes.


You might want to get a stillen hood support to prop up the hood straight up, it's a lot easier to work with hood straight up.

 

The two rear IM bolt and EGR bolts can easily be removed with one of these offset wrench



Its like 4 bucks at autozone when you buy them separate

 

Excellent post, tbergma1. Great pictures.

Nice, That's ideal! Sure beats trying to finagle a socket wrench back there Definitely going to pick up one of those on my next Autozone run.

 

Stillen Hood Support

 

thats high quality stillen material right thur

 

Hey, I had vice grips too:

 

Honestly guys, after doing about a dozen of these i can have both done in less than 1.5 hours. But its really simple. There is no need for removing all the throttle body hoses and vacuum hoses and all that mumbo jumbo. All you really need to do is remove the harness, unbolt the 2 rear upper intake bracket bolts behind intake and firewall, remove 2 egr tube bolts also from behind intake, remove coils, throttle cable bracket and cables shoved under wiper arms, remove PCV hose from valve cover underneath intake near throttlebody and then just go ahead and lift the upper intake up towards the driver side and with some needle nose pliers remove the clamp and coolant hose from underneath the intake near the throttle body (youll see). Then simply flip the upper intake manifold over towards the driver's side strut tower and use a bungee to just hold it away, you don't even need to remove all those vacuum hoses. Then carefully remove the crossover breather hose that connects to both valve covers, this hose might actually be too brittle and could split so make sure to buy this hose with the new valve cover gaskets. Then remove the 10mm bolts on the valve cover, remove the cover and install new gasket. Clean mating surfaces and i use a light coat of some silicone between the gasket and head to prevent future leaks.

Thats basically it. I think flat rate only pays like 2.5 hours for the job.

 

Book time is 3.0, which is ridiculous unless it's your first time. Money to be made there. Warranty is 1.8, which is closer to actual.

Front bank actually calls for 0.7...ha.

 

Is it 3? Dam, im gettin ripped lol. So that means your shop does their customer pay work @ 1.6 x warranty? We do anywhere from 1.3 to 1.5 x warranty depending on the job. Im assuming your a tech as well?

Oh, also forgot to mention. Might also want to look into replacing your passenger side transverse link (control arm) since the leaking valve cover has ruined your rubber bushing.

 

Those are AllData hours, all of the shops I've worked in (besides Nissan, of course) go by them.

 

I did it myself...but my leak was cause AFTER installing an 00VI lol. Took me about an hour to remove and re-install everything.

 

He's right i bet your bushings are shot. Now is the time to replace all your bushings.

 

Did it myself while I was changing one of the bad injectors. Does'nt take very long

 

wait....some one paid $350 to get theirs changed? pay me $200 and ill do it gladly....i took my intake manifold at least 5 times for fun

 

i really wish there was a recall for this stupid problem, mine is leaking slow whn ever parked but i would rather fix it before it becomes worse than it is and i would like to get it done $200 or less

 

Be VERY CAREFUL if you unhook the struts and pull the hood further back. The point of the hood can crack the windshield.

Don't ask me how I know...

 

They're not gonna recall something unless its safety related. This is just considered maintenance.

And where are you located? Theres not location under your avatar. I would do someones for 200 at home...

 

+1. Make sure you follow the FSM on where to put sealant. Don't be a dumb @ss like me and not put. I have to plan for a 2nd time around.

 

Even though my knock sensor was good, I changed it because I didn't feel like sticking my hand in that hole later on. I also cleaned my egr tube, it was ready to plug.

 

had mine fixed today for $220 including $80 for parts and $140 for labor. but after i came home and looked underneath after 20 mins i saw oil on the ground again, my question is that is it normal to see oil underneath ur car for a couple of days or so even after getting the job done. thank you all

 

It can be normal for some residual oil to run off for a few days especially if the mechanic didn't do a good enough job cleaning the area.

But if you continue to have oil leaks that are severe and are from the same area chances are your rear timing chain o rings have turned to plastic and are leaking and/or your head gasket can be leaking in that small front corner.

 

well the leak which i saw after the job was done was smaller compared to before, and also when i got the job done i canged rear valve cover gasket, front valve cover gasket, upper intake manifold gasket, all 6 spark plug seals. i though it would be best since all that would be easier and better to do while everything is already opened.

 

I got my valve cover gaskets replaced today, i guess i got a pretty good deal. i spent $230 for both. This other shop was trying to rip me off for $265 for just the rear. It seems rather easy to do, but i rather not mess with it

 

I wouldn't say the other shop was trying to rip you off necessarily, i would just say you got a better deal from another shop. Because 265 for just the rear sounds about right for dealership prices so.... you got a good deal. Thats assuming the mechanic did a good job.

 

what part is that?

 

i pmed you

 

The rear valve cover gasket takes about 4 hours with some basic knowledge of cars. I have done it and it was not too bad. Just label all the parts you take off so you know where they go

 

can anyone give me a good write up for a first timer to replace the rear valve cover gasket? my knowledge about cars is limited (under the hood) but with pictures it would be alot easier

 

This will show you how to remove the upper intake manifold. Once you do that, removing the rear valve cover is straightforward.

 

thanks alot bro!! PRECIATE IT!!

 

Sorry if I'm thread-jacking this one... Got one question before I get into this job:

Problems: Both Valve covers have slight leaks, rear much worse (firewall side). Was trying to avoid this job, but now I'm forced to get in there.

What I found doing a spark plug change... last plug, far right (driver side rear) was full of oil, can't even see the plug, I'm not going to pull the plug until I get a turkey baster in there or something to syphen the oil out.
(suggestions?)
Question: Do I need to replace the o-ring seals? The ones that I see seated in the actual valve cover?

 

Yes, the one that failed definitely has to be replaced. In general when replacing the valve cover gaskets it's a good idea to replace the tube seals even if they aren't leaking yet.

 

Question on same image, what is this part here, attached to the bottom of throttle body
Mine is corroded to heck, I'm afraid to touch it, it's going to fall apart in pieces!

 

Hey guys. I have a 97 Max with 394k miles on it. I am just now having the major oil leak fixed (valves). It can get pretty messy. The whole bottom of my car was covered in oil. I am having both done and its costing me almost $800.00.