New Maxima, what should i look for?
New Maxima, what should i look for?
other than the t-belt and water pump is there anything else i should be aware of when checking out a 1990 se 5-spd. are there any problems with these car that is other wise not normal with the autos?
thank you all for your help!
i will post pictures should they become avalible
thank you all for your help!
i will post pictures should they become avalible
Timing belt and injectors are the main problem they get. Check out the tranny good. I have had one case actually go bad and input shaft have play. Most likely if it seems to run good you won't have much problems. I Have had 6 3rd gens. Most ever had to do was change set of injectors otherwise just routine maintence. Waiting for pics!
well it has a code, 34, and i have thrown it on my car before. from being stupid, of course... simply forgot to plug it back in after swapping the engine.. now as for whether it'll throw the code for a plugged-in-but-bad KS? who knows..
i will be very honest about the car. its been pretty well maintained since i bought it. i am a mechanic. it does a some rust (fender, little under, none big)does need the new power window motorsand the i believe its the fuel injection pump needs to be replaced tahts about it. and hell i can have you go to one of my guys that wil hook you up. it needs radio wires. other than that, its a japanesse car, it runs very well. got a v-6, 175k miles. i knw people that have their nissans, hondas, and suprisingly bmw's up to about 300k so you know its pretty good. i dont have photos yet. i am getting my girlfriends camera today to use it. i will get pictures up and send htem to you. i will give you a call very soon. alright. thanks for the number by the way. shall talk to you soon. thanks for your interest in this purchase.
Personally, I wouldn't buy a car if I was told or could see that it had rust dmg.
I always lowball them a few hundred than Im willing to pay. If they take it, great, if not. Offer what you want to pay, and still no, walk away. What is he asking for? Hard for us to say if the price even needs to be talked down, if we don't know the price.
I always lowball them a few hundred than Im willing to pay. If they take it, great, if not. Offer what you want to pay, and still no, walk away. What is he asking for? Hard for us to say if the price even needs to be talked down, if we don't know the price.
Personally, I wouldn't buy a car if I was told or could see that it had rust dmg.
I always lowball them a few hundred than Im willing to pay. If they take it, great, if not. Offer what you want to pay, and still no, walk away. What is he asking for? Hard for us to say if the price even needs to be talked down, if we don't know the price.
I always lowball them a few hundred than Im willing to pay. If they take it, great, if not. Offer what you want to pay, and still no, walk away. What is he asking for? Hard for us to say if the price even needs to be talked down, if we don't know the price.
Things to look for:
Window Regulators
Power Steering Leaks (Around the res, or the high flow line)
ABS module leaks (if applicable)
Front Main Seal Leaks (Under the crank)
Valve cover and CPS leaks
VTC clack
No low end = Could be a bad knock sensor
Injectors of course
jumpy idle, rich smelling exhaust, intermittent power loss (could be the Coolant Temperature Sensor)
Rust in obvious places (sunroof/power antenna drain hoses, around the back seat area, rocker panels, etc.)
VE's are fun, if it has the auto transmission... they're usually good for the life of the car if they weren't beat on too much.
I could buy a running ve 5spd for $1000 right now. I just don't have the time to play with cars like I use to, to fix it up the way I would want it. I have owned a ve auto for about 5 years now. The motor clacked when I got it. I put a JDM motor in. And now 4 1/2 years later I get minimal clack during very cold temps. But its fine once it warms up. Im going to switch to the mobil 1 filter others are using, and try synthetic oil. Ive been running 5w30 castrol gtx.
As far as getting rid of the VTC clack or minimizing it...there is a link on someones site somewhere how to ground out the VTC. This will disable this VTC and sometimes gets rid of the clack, however you lose that power gain from 3.5k rpm +. Some say the power isn't that noticeable, but I don't know from experience.
I tried engine flushes and lucas oil products and all the crap out there on the motor I had when I first bought the car. Nothing seemed to help the clack at all. Either the clack was just really bad by then or there is no way around the clack.
As far as getting rid of the VTC clack or minimizing it...there is a link on someones site somewhere how to ground out the VTC. This will disable this VTC and sometimes gets rid of the clack, however you lose that power gain from 3.5k rpm +. Some say the power isn't that noticeable, but I don't know from experience.
I tried engine flushes and lucas oil products and all the crap out there on the motor I had when I first bought the car. Nothing seemed to help the clack at all. Either the clack was just really bad by then or there is no way around the clack.
Remove the carpety panels in the trunk and check if there is rust around the seatbelt anchors. Also, check the lower seatbelt anchors in the rear too. This may not be a problem if you never have people sitting in the back seat.
I personally would get a 94, simply because these 3rd gens are really long in the tooth now - you might get a little extra mileage.
I personally would get a 94, simply because these 3rd gens are really long in the tooth now - you might get a little extra mileage.
yes...warm it up fully. shut car off. turn the screw one way then back...start watching the blinks. I cant remember the codes, there in my book around here somewhere. There is also a auto tranny diagnostic you use the power/comfort switch, there is also a write up on this site somewhere how to do that.
yes...warm it up fully. shut car off. turn the screw one way then back...start watching the blinks. I cant remember the codes, there in my book around here somewhere. There is also a auto tranny diagnostic you use the power/comfort switch, there is also a write up on this site somewhere how to do that.

Last edited by 300zmax; Jan 25, 2009 at 08:39 AM.
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