New 5.5 gen record?
New 5.5 gen record?
Well I made it out tonight to see what I could do again. This was now the second time to the track with the car (It was 75 degrees out). I ran it this time on my STOCK Probe wheels and tires (maxxis tires), they are 225/50-16, the wheels are 25lbs a piece (so no weight savings there). Anyways, it was packed tonight so I made one run and was content with that for now. First and only pass on the Probe wheels gave me this:
60' : 2.14
1/4 : 14.01
Trap: 99.77 mph
I asked about the fastest stock time and I do believe I have it now along with besting my old mph (which no one seems to have done better). Tires had 27psi in them, full interior..no tricks here. Car definitely has a 13.9 @ 100 pass in it, just need to be a little more aggressive on the stickier tires.
I will post a video and my slip tomorrow.
EDIT: Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wrw9DN7taYs
Slip :
John
60' : 2.14
1/4 : 14.01
Trap: 99.77 mph
I asked about the fastest stock time and I do believe I have it now along with besting my old mph (which no one seems to have done better). Tires had 27psi in them, full interior..no tricks here. Car definitely has a 13.9 @ 100 pass in it, just need to be a little more aggressive on the stickier tires.
I will post a video and my slip tomorrow.
EDIT: Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wrw9DN7taYs
Slip :

John
Last edited by jkpgt96; May 6, 2009 at 06:26 PM.
You guys
14.01 is awesome. I know a guy that went 14.21@97 in a stock 5-speed Altima.It's very hard to do better than 2.12-2.14 on street tires.
Congrats man...when that board lit up I was like "WTF!!!!!!!" I was so pissed...lol. I think I'm gonna blow my Maxima up...lol. I had I/H/E/SSIM/Tune and the best I got was a 14.1@98-99mph...what is wrong with my car??? lol. But with a 2.1 60' you should see 13's man, I will be up there in my 5.5gen this coming tuesday if you wanna meet up. I don't want to race you though because I would probably kill myself if I got beat by a stock Maxima.
You might want to try that to see if your timing is okay. I do not know 5.5 gens too well, and I know you guys run more aggressive timing in the midrange, but your knock sensors suck too.
All 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. Use GOOD GAS ONLY. I use 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
Reset your ECU and drive it around for 200-300 miles.
All 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. Use GOOD GAS ONLY. I use 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
Reset your ECU and drive it around for 200-300 miles.
Last edited by JClaw; May 6, 2009 at 06:56 AM.
Here:
All 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. Use GOOD GAS ONLY. I use 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
Reset your ECU and drive it around for 200-300 miles.
All 3.5 swappers should ground their knock sensors directly to the negative pole of their battery if they want uninterrupted, instant full timing all the time.
I have had several 3.5 swaps and when the car is untuned it runs rich and tends to have full timing only 50% of the time, sometimes none at all. Use GOOD GAS ONLY. I use 94 octane to be safe. 100% of the swaps I have done have had the intermittent timing power issue. This is why so many of the 3.5 swappers are dissapointed. They go from a preppy 3.0 with full on timing to a pig rich 3.5 with 15 degrees of timing WOT instead of 3.5. Nissan knock sensors suck, and they need to be dealt with.
Reset your ECU and drive it around for 200-300 miles.
So are you saying to do that with my knock sensor or to just reset my ECU???
Take your knock sensor off the engine block (1 bolt that takes like 20 minutes), and bolt it onto the negative pole of your battery. Then reset your ECU.
As the sticky says, you are the human knock sensor now. I would use 93 octane all the time if you do that, but doing so will get you 100% timing 100% of the time.
Maybe if your car or your wheels are heavy or your track elevation is high it is normal for you to trap only 98-99, but at least with a grounded knock sensor you will know for sure if it is your timing. If it does not change anything after 500 miles, you can put it back where it was, but I personally leave it on the battery because I race alot and I want all my timing.
As the sticky says, you are the human knock sensor now. I would use 93 octane all the time if you do that, but doing so will get you 100% timing 100% of the time.
Maybe if your car or your wheels are heavy or your track elevation is high it is normal for you to trap only 98-99, but at least with a grounded knock sensor you will know for sure if it is your timing. If it does not change anything after 500 miles, you can put it back where it was, but I personally leave it on the battery because I race alot and I want all my timing.
Last edited by JClaw; May 6, 2009 at 07:03 AM.
Take your knock sensor off the engine block (1 bolt that takes like 20 minutes), and bolt it onto the negative pole of your battery. Then reset your ECU.
As the sticky says, you are the human knock sensor now. I would use 93 octane all the time if you do that, but doing so will get you 100% timing 100% of the time.
Maybe if your car or your wheels are heavy or your track elevation is high it is normal for you to trap only 98-99, but at least with a grounded knock sensor you will know for sure if it is your timing. If it does not change anything after 500 miles, you can put it back where it was, but I personally leave it on the battery because I race alot and I want all my timing.
As the sticky says, you are the human knock sensor now. I would use 93 octane all the time if you do that, but doing so will get you 100% timing 100% of the time.
Maybe if your car or your wheels are heavy or your track elevation is high it is normal for you to trap only 98-99, but at least with a grounded knock sensor you will know for sure if it is your timing. If it does not change anything after 500 miles, you can put it back where it was, but I personally leave it on the battery because I race alot and I want all my timing.
I'll try that for sure though...I really need to figure something out because it just doesn't seem like it is running as good as it could. If I don't figure out something soon, I'm gonna buy tons of new parts for it.
Definately do that before dumping alot of money into it. But give it a good 200-300 miles for the ECU to reajust. It may take longer since yours is a 5.5 gen. Your instinct will tell you when the car FEELS good. You WILL know your timing is correct when it is.
Thanks for the kind words! It kind of sucks that they decided to combine two nights into one this year, but I will be back (maybe next week if I am in town) to try and make that 13 second pass.
Btw nice to finally meet you Pimpin'!
Btw nice to finally meet you Pimpin'!
Last edited by jkpgt96; May 6, 2009 at 08:58 AM.
Yeah, you too man. I really do wish you would do some mods to that thing man...that thing would be wicked fast with some boltons
Headers/Y-pipe: $350
SSIM: Free
Piggyback: $150
Tune: $250-$350
For less then $1000 I guarentee you that car would be in the low 13's...then you could pick on your buddies IS350 and maybe even your buddy with the Stang...
Headers/Y-pipe: $350
SSIM: Free
Piggyback: $150
Tune: $250-$350
For less then $1000 I guarentee you that car would be in the low 13's...then you could pick on your buddies IS350 and maybe even your buddy with the Stang...
Nope, none what so ever (unless you want to call folding the mirrors in a mod, lol). I bought the car last April ('08) and have just driven it.I would love to start modding it, but I have my project for the moment. 2.14 60' is not THAT great..its good, but not great.
Last edited by jkpgt96; May 6, 2009 at 09:38 AM.
Yeah, you too man. I really do wish you would do some mods to that thing man...that thing would be wicked fast with some boltons
Headers/Y-pipe: $350
SSIM: Free
Piggyback: $150
Tune: $250-$350
For less then $1000 I guarentee you that car would be in the low 13's...then you could pick on your buddies IS350 and maybe even your buddy with the Stang...
Headers/Y-pipe: $350
SSIM: Free
Piggyback: $150
Tune: $250-$350
For less then $1000 I guarentee you that car would be in the low 13's...then you could pick on your buddies IS350 and maybe even your buddy with the Stang...

i beg to differ.... in the track world maybe not... but for a stock 3300lb grocery getter with no suspension and only putting out lil over 200whp that is amazing
Congrats man...when that board lit up I was like "WTF!!!!!!!" I was so pissed...lol. I think I'm gonna blow my Maxima up...lol. I had I/H/E/SSIM/Tune and the best I got was a 14.1@98-99mph...what is wrong with my car??? l
I know how to drive...look at the trap speeds...now if he ran a 14.0 @ 95mph then there would be some problems but he even has higher trap speed then me...and he pulled a 2.1 60' and I pulled a 2.2....so I don't know what to tell ya
Ehh..I can do better on the tires I had on last night. I wanted to make sure I didn't spin real bad seeing as I knew it was going to be my only run and since I had never launched with these tires. I have no doubt I could get a 2.0x 60' out of the car next time dropping the pressure to 22-24 psi and launching harder. But thanks for the kind words I appreciate it!
Ehh..I can do better on the tires I had on last night. I wanted to make sure I didn't spin real bad seeing as I knew it was going to be my only run and since I had never launched with these tires. I have no doubt I could get a 2.0x 60' out of the car next time dropping the pressure to 22-24 psi and launching harder. But thanks for the kind words I appreciate it!
I was peddling it out of the hole a good bit (though less than on the old tires) and I only left from 2200. I think that I could leave from the same rpm but peddle it a little less and see (gotta see how the tires like a few psi less air too..). I suppose the only way to know is to try..My last pass on the old tires I left from 2500 and it spun really bad, so who knows. I will find that point where I go from 2.1-2.0 to 2.5-2.6 lol.
Congrats man...when that board lit up I was like "WTF!!!!!!!" I was so pissed...lol. I think I'm gonna blow my Maxima up...lol. I had I/H/E/SSIM/Tune and the best I got was a 14.1@98-99mph...what is wrong with my car??? lol. But with a 2.1 60' you should see 13's man, I will be up there in my 5.5gen this coming tuesday if you wanna meet up. I don't want to race you though because I would probably kill myself if I got beat by a stock Maxima.

Last edited by jkpgt96; May 6, 2009 at 06:27 PM.
Take your knock sensor off the engine block (1 bolt that takes like 20 minutes), and bolt it onto the negative pole of your battery. Then reset your ECU.
As the sticky says, you are the human knock sensor now. I would use 93 octane all the time if you do that, but doing so will get you 100% timing 100% of the time.
Maybe if your car or your wheels are heavy or your track elevation is high it is normal for you to trap only 98-99, but at least with a grounded knock sensor you will know for sure if it is your timing. If it does not change anything after 500 miles, you can put it back where it was, but I personally leave it on the battery because I race alot and I want all my timing.
As the sticky says, you are the human knock sensor now. I would use 93 octane all the time if you do that, but doing so will get you 100% timing 100% of the time.
Maybe if your car or your wheels are heavy or your track elevation is high it is normal for you to trap only 98-99, but at least with a grounded knock sensor you will know for sure if it is your timing. If it does not change anything after 500 miles, you can put it back where it was, but I personally leave it on the battery because I race alot and I want all my timing.
Wat if ur cel comes on and off saying u have a bad knock sensor?? U change it and it still happenes
Now as for you I think you are a bad driver...with your traps you should be in the low 13's and you can't even muster a 13.5...so you don't have any excuses as to why except the driver, so I don't want to hear it bud.
Last edited by pimpin02max; May 6, 2009 at 08:21 PM.
Lol, thanks...?
The Regal S/C I raced is a friend and he couldn't believe that he had ~.5 seconds on me between the tree and the 60' and I still caught him at the 1/8th mile.
Freak - Yes
Good Driver - depends on who you ask, I do alright..
Pimpin' can you guys plz bicker via PM? I don't want the thread to get closed...thx
The Regal S/C I raced is a friend and he couldn't believe that he had ~.5 seconds on me between the tree and the 60' and I still caught him at the 1/8th mile.Freak - Yes
Good Driver - depends on who you ask, I do alright..
Pimpin' can you guys plz bicker via PM? I don't want the thread to get closed...thx
Last edited by jkpgt96; May 6, 2009 at 09:05 PM.
Awesome times man!! It must really make those I/H/E guys feel bad when even with mods they can barely break into the low 14's. Anyways, from what ive felt, id say ive driven probably 30-35 different 02-03 maximas, and honestly, sometimes they feel really sluggish. Given 95% of them are stock, but, from what i have found myself, some feel really quick, some feel normal, some feel flat out slow, like, someone just put on 22" boat anchors.
One time I got one of the other guys to run me in 2 same 05 maximas. Identical cars, base model 5 seaters, needless to say where both about 130lbs and his SPANKED the one i was driving. went from a roll and left it in drive too. I think sometimes they is a huge variation in build quality with some of those 3.5's.. Mileage is irrelevant, becuase those 2 cars had less then 500KMS, and a lot of the cars i drive the mileage is all over the place in terms of which ones feel faster then others.
On reference of build quality of certain nissan parts, look at the failure rate of the 350z/G35 manual transmissions, and for those of you who are techs at nissan, how many subframe recalls have you seen come in, go out for an alighnment and come back because they cant align it. Looks like a 6 year old welded some of them.
to keep in on track though, almost makes me want to buy a 5.5 6spd and try to break 13's stock!
One time I got one of the other guys to run me in 2 same 05 maximas. Identical cars, base model 5 seaters, needless to say where both about 130lbs and his SPANKED the one i was driving. went from a roll and left it in drive too. I think sometimes they is a huge variation in build quality with some of those 3.5's.. Mileage is irrelevant, becuase those 2 cars had less then 500KMS, and a lot of the cars i drive the mileage is all over the place in terms of which ones feel faster then others.
On reference of build quality of certain nissan parts, look at the failure rate of the 350z/G35 manual transmissions, and for those of you who are techs at nissan, how many subframe recalls have you seen come in, go out for an alighnment and come back because they cant align it. Looks like a 6 year old welded some of them.
to keep in on track though, almost makes me want to buy a 5.5 6spd and try to break 13's stock!
Lol, thanks...?
The Regal S/C I raced is a friend and he couldn't believe that he had ~.5 seconds on me between the tree and the 60' and I still caught him at the 1/8th mile.
Freak - Yes
Good Driver - depends on who you ask, I do alright..
Pimpin' can you guys plz bicker via PM? I don't want the thread to get closed...thx
The Regal S/C I raced is a friend and he couldn't believe that he had ~.5 seconds on me between the tree and the 60' and I still caught him at the 1/8th mile.Freak - Yes
Good Driver - depends on who you ask, I do alright..
Pimpin' can you guys plz bicker via PM? I don't want the thread to get closed...thx
Yeah sorry about that...but anyway yeah I thought that Regal was going to beat you.
How quickly you shift can have a drastic impact on your trap speed, while hardly affecting your ET at all. One car can definitely be "faster" than another while still showing similar trap speeds simply based on how quickly one driver is shifting as compared to the other.
For instance, back in the day with my old 96, I had a buddy with a 99. I had Ypipe only and trapped a best of 96.4mph. My buddy had I/Y/E, UDP, whatever else. His best trap was 96.x and he couldn't figure out why my car trapped as fast as his, but when we raced his car would actually pull away from mine in each gear, yet my shifting was that much quicker than his which meant I made up for having less power by being "on the gas longer" resulting in similar trap speeds. His car was technically "faster" than mine, yet I always ran better ETs because of my launches and better traps because of my quicker shifting. Do not discount the effect very quick shifting can have on times.
I'm not terribly familiar with the gearing of the 6 speed, but if there is a shift going on right before/right at the line, that can affect your trap speed drastically too, while all the other numbers on the timeslip may not be affected at all. I've seen my 1/8 mile traps vary from 92 to 96mph based upon the fact that with my old powerband, I was forced to shift to 4th right around the 1/8 mile traps.
For instance, back in the day with my old 96, I had a buddy with a 99. I had Ypipe only and trapped a best of 96.4mph. My buddy had I/Y/E, UDP, whatever else. His best trap was 96.x and he couldn't figure out why my car trapped as fast as his, but when we raced his car would actually pull away from mine in each gear, yet my shifting was that much quicker than his which meant I made up for having less power by being "on the gas longer" resulting in similar trap speeds. His car was technically "faster" than mine, yet I always ran better ETs because of my launches and better traps because of my quicker shifting. Do not discount the effect very quick shifting can have on times.
I'm not terribly familiar with the gearing of the 6 speed, but if there is a shift going on right before/right at the line, that can affect your trap speed drastically too, while all the other numbers on the timeslip may not be affected at all. I've seen my 1/8 mile traps vary from 92 to 96mph based upon the fact that with my old powerband, I was forced to shift to 4th right around the 1/8 mile traps.
Nealoc
1st 3.153
2nd 1.944
3rd 1.392
4th 1.055
5th 0.809
6th 0.630
Reverse 3.002
Final Gear Ratio 3.812
These are the specs from the 2002 Maxima service manual.
Great times. You have me scratching my head a bit also. I have mods and my best run was a 13.85@ 101 2.23 60'. Granted this was on street tires and a stock suspension with a so so track, comparatively its not too impressive.
Jclaw- my car seems to run very well or like a dog. I always thought that it had something to do with my MAF or maybe an 02 sensor, fuel related. How would you be able to tell if the timing were the culprit for my performance?
1st 3.153
2nd 1.944
3rd 1.392
4th 1.055
5th 0.809
6th 0.630
Reverse 3.002
Final Gear Ratio 3.812
These are the specs from the 2002 Maxima service manual.
Great times. You have me scratching my head a bit also. I have mods and my best run was a 13.85@ 101 2.23 60'. Granted this was on street tires and a stock suspension with a so so track, comparatively its not too impressive.
Jclaw- my car seems to run very well or like a dog. I always thought that it had something to do with my MAF or maybe an 02 sensor, fuel related. How would you be able to tell if the timing were the culprit for my performance?
Nealoc
1st 3.153
2nd 1.944
3rd 1.392
4th 1.055
5th 0.809
6th 0.630
Reverse 3.002
Final Gear Ratio 3.812
These are the specs from the 2002 Maxima service manual.
Great times. You have me scratching my head a bit also. I have mods and my best run was a 13.85@ 101 2.23 60'. Granted this was on street tires and a stock suspension with a so so track, comparatively its not too impressive.
1st 3.153
2nd 1.944
3rd 1.392
4th 1.055
5th 0.809
6th 0.630
Reverse 3.002
Final Gear Ratio 3.812
These are the specs from the 2002 Maxima service manual.
Great times. You have me scratching my head a bit also. I have mods and my best run was a 13.85@ 101 2.23 60'. Granted this was on street tires and a stock suspension with a so so track, comparatively its not too impressive.
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Congrats on the time, that is pretty amazing for a stock 5.5. My best stock was a 14.3@97 with a 2.25 '60 and some slowish shifting.



