I got my rear brakes changed along with my inspection. Now every time I step on on breaks, it makes this wierd humming sound. Does anyone know what it is? Could it be just new pads? I've driven the car for about 100 miles already.

 

It is like metal to metal? the pads are original or a replacement?

 

Not metal to metal, like a really deep rumbling sound. Just replacement pads.

 

check your disc brakes for any visible damage..that's a start

 

Checked didn't see anything. Rotors look fine. It's been about 80-100 miles since it started. A friend said it could be breaking into the brakes, but I think it should've stopped by now. It sounds really bad when I step on the brakes, but gradually goes away when i stop. Then when I start moving again, the grinding sound is there till i hit maybe 10-15 mph.

 

get enough grease on the pads?

 

If its a scraping it could be the rear brake baffle plate touching the rotor, only heard at low speeds. If its a deep hum it could relative to the type of pad used.Just a thought

 

Is there an easy fix to forrect the baffle plate? Cause my car stops even better than before. So I know the brakes are working properly. Also, my E-brake does not go as high as before anymore, but it still holds the car in place. (it's a manual)

 

The rear baffle plate is the metal plate that shrouds the back of the rotor. You may have to check to make sure its not bent and touching the rotor. They can be replaced, but that does involve removing the rotor and caliper assemble again.

 

If it was the backing plate then you would here it at all times not just when brakeing. So with that said inspect the rotors for any heat spots (black spots) or damage to the rotors. Where they turned or replaced, a good shop would have turned or replaced the rotors. If they were not turned then you can take them to a shop or to Auto Zone and have them turned, if they are not below minimum machine if they are below then they need to be replaced.

 

Cheap aftermarket pads.... put some good factory pads on there and problem solved. Also helps to resurface your rotors to new finish.

 

Put some grease on the back of pads

 

Thank you for all your responses.

Update: The sound is still there. Took it to the mechanics and they said it might be something else (they didn't have much time to look). The sound intensifies when You make a left or right turn. So I'm not sure what else it could be. The sound is on and off. One day it's so loud people are looking at me. Other days, quiet as a library lol. The sound is like me driving of a storm grate if anyone knows what that means.

 

Frozen guide pin?

 

That may be it, I heard about this so many times. My mechanic did say that that one of my pads were really thin and the other one was fine. The one that was thin is making horrible sounds.

 

I'm looking at the Advanced Auto Parts website. They give me a price for all of them. Is it for just one or a pair?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...AMS__brakes___

 

each

 

Which one would be the best buy? Something I don't need to put together and I could just slap on the car?

 

If its humming, is more noticeable at low speed but still hums when making left/right turns probably more during 40-60mph highway curves, you've got yourself a bad wheel bearing. Replace hub bearing assembly in rear assuming that's where you hear it once you've checked it for play and spinning it by hand.

 

It only sounds at 0-20ish so first and second gear. Question though, if the mechanic was able to install my pads and able to turn my piston back in, is is possible it's seized? Forgot to ask that. And it does make the sound louder when I make turns at low speeds. Not really anything on the highway.

 

Took the car to Pep Boys, They said all 4 of my rotors were shot to hell! So went to Auto Zone and got all four for 130. Pep Boys wanted to charge 550.00 for all four. Gonna do it myself tonight. Big thanks to pmohr for uploading videos on Youtube. Your awesome man. Saved my money today!

 

Just finished changing all four rotors and they were stuck on there good. A lot of hammering and banging to get the rotors off. Everything went smooth for the front, once I got to the rear drivers side, the torque member bolt broke off due to rust, so I didn't get to change that rotor. The passanger side on the other hand was the easiest one, bolts came off without trouble and the rotor just popped off when I got the torque member off.


Editing: Oh yeah no more sound!!! woot woot.

But how would you guys go about in replacing the broken bolt?

 

Get anew bracket from the junk yard as well as the pins if not, check the classifieds here.

Most car places can order it but it will take a few days IF they can get the rear bracket.

 

Yeah, that sucker just snapped off as soon at I turned it. I'm gonna take it to a shop tomorrow to get the bolt extracted. Then get the last rotor mounted.

 

This is what you may need

 

. could be the baffle/heatshield if any...umm bearings make a humming noise when bad also...dont hold me to that tho

 

It was actually my Rotors, They were in really bad shape. I didn't realize that till i took a closer look.

 

I found a new caliper at Autozone for 33.00. How do I remove the broken bolt??

 

bump

 

Most likely a drill with an extractor bit which is gonna take forever and its probably gonna break a few bits on you while trying, hence why I suggested you just get a new bracket with guide pins from the junk yard.

What happened to your taking-it-to-shop plan?

 

I ordered the part from Advance Auto won't be here till tomorrow. But was wondering if I could do it myself to save some cash. School is starting soon, don't wanna get charged a ridiculous amount.

 

Sure you can do it your self. You'll prob need someone else to help you bleed your brake system.

 

Took it to my mechanic. Took out the broken bolt, changed out the torque member, and rotor. Total labor cost 65.00. (all parts were mine) (torque member 20.00, Pins 25.00, rotor 25.00)