View Poll Results: what o do?
fix current lump



2
4.00%
get 3.5



30
60.00%
get another de-k



18
36.00%
Voters: 50. You may not vote on this poll
Engine swap choices, which is the SMART way to go?
Engine swap choices, which is the SMART way to go?
Currently have a DE-K that burns 2 quarts of oil withing the 1st 300 miles, then just seems to run on 3 forever, at least that's what the last 3 oil changes within 1200 miles showed. I'm tired of looking in the rear view and seeing a cloud of blue smoke all the time and the lack of low end that is getting worse and worse.
Which would you do? Get another DE-K for something like $500 and just swap it right in, or, get a 3.5 for about the same price, replace the broken valve cover that it has, then cam adapters for $150, then fiddle with all the timing equipment and hope it's all lined up correctly and hope it fires otherwise take it all apart again? So the price difference is about $200 which isn't a big deal now but when I do plan on doing this, mortgage might be an issue. Or of course, rip the current engine apart and see what the hell is messed up.
I'm leaning towards the 3.5 cause it's what I want even though a tuned DE-K, when it ran good, felt like enough power.
Which would you do? Get another DE-K for something like $500 and just swap it right in, or, get a 3.5 for about the same price, replace the broken valve cover that it has, then cam adapters for $150, then fiddle with all the timing equipment and hope it's all lined up correctly and hope it fires otherwise take it all apart again? So the price difference is about $200 which isn't a big deal now but when I do plan on doing this, mortgage might be an issue. Or of course, rip the current engine apart and see what the hell is messed up.
I'm leaning towards the 3.5 cause it's what I want even though a tuned DE-K, when it ran good, felt like enough power.
Last edited by DAVE Sz; Sep 30, 2009 at 06:08 PM.
Depends on how many miles/where the 3.5 came from...
I doubt you'd wanna be stuck with a Quest motor
And just because the 3.5 itself isn't *that* much more expensive the actual install takes more work/labor = money.
I doubt you'd wanna be stuck with a Quest motor

And just because the 3.5 itself isn't *that* much more expensive the actual install takes more work/labor = money.
Man i have to be honest...
Having a 00vi and a 3.5 swap done i would do the 3.5 swap.
Granted i blew a 3.5 already(my fault) The 3.5 moved.
And you could do better than 500 if you wait it out long enough.
Hell look up engines in MN.
Having a 00vi and a 3.5 swap done i would do the 3.5 swap.
Granted i blew a 3.5 already(my fault) The 3.5 moved.
And you could do better than 500 if you wait it out long enough.
Hell look up engines in MN.
Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; Sep 30, 2009 at 08:30 PM.
What's wrong with quest motors, again?
Last edited by DAVE Sz; Sep 30, 2009 at 09:04 PM.
I might sell my DEK I have, 38K miles, needs the rear VC and LIM (taken off when someone parted an 00VI), but has both heads, and cams. If you're interested, let me know.
Other than that, Id say get another DE-K. Or, order some parts, spend a weekend or two and fix the one you got. While you're in there drop some 3.5 cams in.
Other than that, Id say get another DE-K. Or, order some parts, spend a weekend or two and fix the one you got. While you're in there drop some 3.5 cams in.
I'm not sure why but the last 3.5 swap that was like a Quest or something dynoed considerably less than average.
Problem I might have with rebuilding is that I'd have to take it all apart to see what's wrong and then order parts. That's already taking a week out of the time I would have.
I might sell my DEK I have, 38K miles, needs the rear VC and LIM (taken off when someone parted an 00VI), but has both heads, and cams. If you're interested, let me know.
Other than that, Id say get another DE-K. Or, order some parts, spend a weekend or two and fix the one you got. While you're in there drop some 3.5 cams in.
Other than that, Id say get another DE-K. Or, order some parts, spend a weekend or two and fix the one you got. While you're in there drop some 3.5 cams in.
I really doubt that's all it is, seeing as the head gasket isn't right under the valve covers. As mentioned before, the engine was dropped down a flight of stairs by previous owner.
Problem I might have with rebuilding is that I'd have to take it all apart to see what's wrong and then order parts. That's already taking a week out of the time I would have.
Problem I might have with rebuilding is that I'd have to take it all apart to see what's wrong and then order parts. That's already taking a week out of the time I would have.
OH i was thinkin anti-freeze..hmmmmm lol

Either way somehow oil is being burned in one of yur cylinders and a cracked cylinder is going be a toughie to fix AND time consuming.
I hrd 3.5 swaps are doable but costly.
Well considering you're not hard on your car (from what I'm able to tell) and also seeing you did mention the DE-K felt like enough power for you, I'd say save yourself some time and money by going with the DE-K, of course the time part is a bit off considering you cant find any DE-Ks locally..
But wouldn't that require taking all the timing stuff off, putting in 3.5 cams, getting the cam adapters, and then redoing the timing stuff? So pretty much just as much work with almost none of the gains of the 3.5.
I think I decided that the 3.5 would be more beneficial, $/hp wise, if I can find one cheap enough. At the same time it depends on which engine will be easier to acquire at the given time. And also if Tilley still sells his cam adapters...
I think I decided that the 3.5 would be more beneficial, $/hp wise, if I can find one cheap enough. At the same time it depends on which engine will be easier to acquire at the given time. And also if Tilley still sells his cam adapters...
But wouldn't that require taking all the timing stuff off, putting in 3.5 cams, getting the cam adapters, and then redoing the timing stuff? So pretty much just as much work with almost none of the gains of the 3.5.
I think I decided that the 3.5 would be more beneficial, $/hp wise, if I can find one cheap enough. At the same time it depends on which engine will be easier to acquire at the given time. And also if Tilley still sells his cam adapters...
I think I decided that the 3.5 would be more beneficial, $/hp wise, if I can find one cheap enough. At the same time it depends on which engine will be easier to acquire at the given time. And also if Tilley still sells his cam adapters...
But wouldn't that require taking all the timing stuff off, putting in 3.5 cams, getting the cam adapters, and then redoing the timing stuff? So pretty much just as much work with almost none of the gains of the 3.5.
I think I decided that the 3.5 would be more beneficial, $/hp wise, if I can find one cheap enough. At the same time it depends on which engine will be easier to acquire at the given time. And also if Tilley still sells his cam adapters...
I think I decided that the 3.5 would be more beneficial, $/hp wise, if I can find one cheap enough. At the same time it depends on which engine will be easier to acquire at the given time. And also if Tilley still sells his cam adapters...
Sigh. Yeah. that would be the more responsible thing to do. I'm just scared of tearing it apart and finding out it's beyond fixable. Was finally going to do compression and leak down testing this weekend just to find out I won't have time...
I'm looking at literally 80-100 DEKs between $250 and $610 on car-part right now in the Chicago area...?
Anyways, my vote is for the 3.5. I have a bolt on 3.0 right now and a bolt on 3.5 right now in my two 4th gens, the difference is pretty incredible in driveability. Partial throttle torque difference is pretty wild. It takes so much less throttle input to do anything in the 3.5 car - it's really much more enjoyable to drive and I rarely floor either car. I go WOT probably twice a week, and always only on the highway. Just driveability-wise the 3.5 is far superior.
If you have any plans to boost the car in the future I say go with a DEK.
Anyhow, you could do the simpler 3.5 swap like I did if you felt like it. Use 3.0 cams and it eliminates the need for spacers, the need to take off the cam sprockets, etc. Makes timing the motor simply a matter of setting the cams in the motor and lining up the 2 dots with the two arrows or whatever. You could also use your DEK intake manifold (as I used the DE intake manifold originally and for like a year and a half before I put my 3.5 manifold on) and not have to worry about doing all the TB modification, and all that jazz. Feel free to PM me or read my threads about it. My 3.5 swap was probably the simplest 3.5 swap ever done I'd say. I did it in like 4 days which included a bunch of other, non swap related stuff (custom radiator support, other custom non-motor related stuff like suspension revamp, etc).
Last edited by Nealoc187; Oct 2, 2009 at 11:10 AM.
The difference between the de-k and 3.5 cams has to be noticeable?
As for the 00VI, how mismatched are the ports in relation to the 3.5 LIM or heads? If the difference isn't that big I might as well broaden the search to a 3.5 with no tb or IM...
As for the 00VI, how mismatched are the ports in relation to the 3.5 LIM or heads? If the difference isn't that big I might as well broaden the search to a 3.5 with no tb or IM...
Here's a picture from a thread in the AM forum regarding the differences in ports.
DE and DEK LIMs are the same as far as port shape goes, that's the point he's making.
You could make this work, but it would require either:
a) a lot of porting in order to use a 3.0 LIM on the 3.5 heads (which would do unknown things to their flow, could be good, could be bad).
or
b) an adaptor plate to make the 00vi upper match up with the 3.5L lower (which would need to be 3D machined to have the different port shapes morph to match each other, and then you'd need to figure out how to work the bolts because the bolts aren't even close to matching up either).
or
c) (and I believe this would work, but someone correct me if I'm wrong) pathfinder heads which have intake ports shaped the same as 3.0s (or utilization of 3.0 heads on a 3.5 which I don't feel is a good idea).
I bought an 00vi with the intention of doing option B, and when I finally realized how badly things were misaligned I said "to hell with this" and sold the 00VI. Wasn't worth the effort for me - I have the means to design and machine the adaptor plate at my buddy's house but I just decided it wasn't worth the effort.

You could make this work, but it would require either:
a) a lot of porting in order to use a 3.0 LIM on the 3.5 heads (which would do unknown things to their flow, could be good, could be bad).
or
b) an adaptor plate to make the 00vi upper match up with the 3.5L lower (which would need to be 3D machined to have the different port shapes morph to match each other, and then you'd need to figure out how to work the bolts because the bolts aren't even close to matching up either).
or
c) (and I believe this would work, but someone correct me if I'm wrong) pathfinder heads which have intake ports shaped the same as 3.0s (or utilization of 3.0 heads on a 3.5 which I don't feel is a good idea).
I bought an 00vi with the intention of doing option B, and when I finally realized how badly things were misaligned I said "to hell with this" and sold the 00VI. Wasn't worth the effort for me - I have the means to design and machine the adaptor plate at my buddy's house but I just decided it wasn't worth the effort.

I'd say do the 3.5 swap, the timing is not that hard to do once you get the spacers. Like Nealoc187 said 3.5 much less throttle input do drive which is great because when you WOT you feel the difference between the 3.0L then again I never driven an DE-K so im not sure the difference but from DE its like night and day
I did think of that but wasn't sure if the dek LIM would bolt onto the heads. I read of the pathfinder LIM but I think Neal said it wouldn't be a god idea.





