99 5 Speed Maxima 166,xxx miles, with a fairly new transmission in it, no idea for sure if it's VLSD or not, but I'm thinkin it's a open diff... if that even matters?

On to the problem. [sparknotes @ the bottom]

While driving, a clunking noise (my engine probably moving around around) would come from under my hood depending on how i shift (a rapid clutch in and not shifting does it usually). This same clunking noise also occurs in first and reverse allot.
Now, recently, my car began to make a clicking noise whenever I would engage the clutch in reverse, but this is an intermittent problem, it doesn't happen all of the time. The clicking noise sounds like it's coming from under the pop out drawer.
Just to add to the mix I also have traction issues. At the track in august, I had HORRIBLE bone chattering wheel hop, which is probably part of the reason for a measly 2.4 60ft.

Now all of this points towards bad motor mounts, and I was going to buy some until.... I inspected my motor mounts, they look to be in pretty good condition, so I took it to firestone to get have them do a full check up of my car (had a free coupon in the mail), they said my mounts were fine, and even had another guy who's good with the Maxima up here look at them and he said they were fine...

::Edit::
I also have a REALLY hard time getting the car in and out of any gear when I first start it up, but I think this is a more clutch related issue, because my engagement point changes with the cars temperature... By the time the car is warm it shifts fine... most of the time...

Only thing missing from my motor mounts sucking is the shifter moving with acceleration/decceleration and shaking when the car starts/turns off?

[Sparknotes]
I have almost all of the classic symptoms for bad motor mounts, but my motor mounts aren't bad.

 

well i agree that the symptoms are looking like ur mounts are killed. specifically the one in the front and rear. i had the exact same thing, and the mounts looked OK until we took them out, and the rear mount was destroyed.

i installed ES mounts, and it helped out a lot, but didnt get rid of the wheel hop to much

 

Check your motor/transmission mounts.

 

Check the bracket for the passenger side axle.

 

I wish there was a race track in Mass...

Replace the motor mounts...brand new ones wont hurt either way

 

check your wheel bearings.

 

best shot lift youre car on jack stands and put it in gear its easier to diagnose, it could be a few things

 

my shifter clunks everytime i go into reverse or first, i kinda figured it was normal

 

My car does the same thing...its not loud or pronounced. It felt natural to me and dont think anything is wrong

 

If it quacks like a duck, and looks like a duck.... If I don't get a solid answer by thanksgiving week (when the car goes to pieces), that's what I'll be doin...

Bracket? A little bit more detail/info would be appreciated...

Wouldn't I get a whirring noise while driving on the highway? And what do they have to do with the clunking?

And what would I be looking for exactly? There's allot wrong with my car, except this problem is gettin really bothersome....

Well maybe when you first engage, but first is REALLY un-drivable for me, and reverse pretty much clunks around allot if I'm not nice to the clutch.

Hey, guys check the first post, more info added, don't know if it will help or confuse the problem

 

Nice call Dave! Exaclty what I was thinking too. They are known to break at times. Especially if you're tracking the car.

The clunking noise is likely from the shift support rod hitting the exahust (under the center consule). The hard shifing when cold, ha ... all I can say is let the car idle in N for a bit, mine dose the same thing. It's a Maxima, not a Beemr! lol

Edit: The passangers side CV axle has a bracket that holds it in place. Sits behind the PS pump, look up in the wheel well, you'll see it, just follow the axle. If it's snapped, you'll know it. It's held in place with 3 - 14mm bolts and the axle slides thru it. It's a carrier bearing in other words. Hope this helps.

 

+1 on the passenger side support bearing for the axle. Also, when you have a chance, lift up the car and check all of your shift linkage from the shifter to the tranny. Maybe even have someone else go through the gears while you are under there inspecting.

 

Thanks allot guys, I will definitely get on this soon to let you know what's up or not... and as for the clunking, I'm pretty sure it's coming from under the hood.

 

Update!

Replacing mounts are out of the question, none of them even seem on their way going out.

That side support bearing looks fine (even though it's coated in PS fluid and oil...)

Shift Linkage is tight.

I found the light clunking noise to be a loose brake line on the driver side, zip tied and the noise is gone... zip ties ftw. (I don't think that problem was stated in the OP, but I just assumed it was the ball joint of upper strut mount... both of them are fine of course)

Shifting? Well I'm back in Houston and my car won't be seeing 30 degree weather anytime soon and as I discussed it with another guy who knows his way around cars we narrowed it to being a clutch problem, but meh, I'll worry about it when it happens.

Clunking? It's really hard to reproduce because I've adjusted my driving habits to avoid it so I'm having a hard time getting the engine to do a "thud" or "clunk" now-a-days.

For the lack of traction, I'll just get traction bars and do grey99max's suggested mod for the spring after the planned 00VI, that'll hopefully get me down to 2.2 for the '60 (2.49 is just bad IMO).

Only problems I have now is the torn CV boot, 3 oil leaks, and a PS leak. I plan on fixing 2/3 oil leaks and PS fluid leak and back on track to modding and less fixing.

 

I am pretty sure that I have the same problem. But mine shift perfectly. You probably have 2 problems...

I did search in the forums, lot of people talking about control arm bushing.
It's logical, my clicking noise appear only in transversal movement, when you go reverse/foward.
If I hit a speedbump or get into a curve, no clicking. One of the only thing that can possibly (if it loose) moves foward/backward is the control arm.

Btw , it appear right after a drag session too.

I,ll told you if that was my problem soon, because I ordered black energy control arm busings and sway bar bushings.

And I dont think that it could be cause by tranny/engine mount, those are too strong for our 3.0l.

Good luck

 

The shifting problem is clutch related, and will only happen up here in KS, my car is back in TX now and it shifts fine (unless hell freezes over and suddenly holds 30 degrees for a night).

Control arm bushing? I'm sure I checked those... if I could get a pic I could tell what they are...

Drag strip? What's your '60? Like I said I'm having really bad wheel hop issues, I know these cars have their issues w/ it but it's just unreal w/ my car.

 

I dont have my paper with me, but best time was 14.688 sec. No wheel hop, the drop (springs+shocks) help a lot, it put your axles around 180 degree, the cv joint is straight, it reduce wheel hop.

 

nice car aackshun

 

I'm more and more convinced that my problem is the bushing. I notice this morning that I had no clicking, the car was in the garage. Normally, she sleeps outside.
During the morning ride, the sound came out again. Here, in montreal, the temperature's around -2 / -4 celcius.

I guess is a warm»»»to cold rubber problem.

I'll keep you update, I'll get my bushing soon.

You can go there : http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/

 

Lol, they're better ways to get your post count up... I have a thread in the member's ride's forum... "Finally, My Crimson Blaze A32"... You can comment there lol.

 

Ok update, the shifting problem was what I thought it was the whole time, the clutch not fully disengaging. There was a leak somewhere but I couldn't spot it, so I ordered a RTP full SS line offa ebay for $40 shipped, got it yesterday and after fighting the old hard lines trying to get them out I finally got it out and installed the SS line, it goes straight from the master cyl to the slave cyl, deleting the upper bleeder, bleeding took about 10 minutes with a self bleeder, I did a quick test and I can move my car in the driveway, I'm about to go for a driving test now, but so far so good.

As for the control arm I will inspect it tomorrow night.