Alignment after Eibach Springs: We need some answers!
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
Alignment after Eibach Springs: We need some answers!
Well I just had my Eibach Springs put on yesterday (See pic below,they are awesome). My install guy said I needed to put about 20 miles on them to settle and then return today for the alignment. I ended up taking the Eibach Pro-Kit data sheet today that has the alignment specs for the new springs (see pic below circled in red). He started on the aligment and half way through came to me and said the Eibach spec for the rear Camber and toe were not attainable by adjusting for our car.
He then called Eibach directly and spoke to a Tech who said to run the stock alignment figures from Nissan and to not use the spec sheet below. After he got done with that, he came to me and said he could not get the rear camber adjustment into the green zone for stock settings but was just out of spec. Does anyone know what the true alignment figures are for our car after we have added the Eibach springs? Should we use the stock settings? I think we need to get this resolved with Eibach!
He then called Eibach directly and spoke to a Tech who said to run the stock alignment figures from Nissan and to not use the spec sheet below. After he got done with that, he came to me and said he could not get the rear camber adjustment into the green zone for stock settings but was just out of spec. Does anyone know what the true alignment figures are for our car after we have added the Eibach springs? Should we use the stock settings? I think we need to get this resolved with Eibach!
Last edited by bmanbmv; Oct 27, 2009 at 01:28 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
So, still my questions is: Should I use the stock Nissan Alignment specs? Let's get a poll going of who used what after their Eibach springs were installed.
A) Stock Nissan alignment specs
or
B) Alternate alignment specs (Eibach or other)
A) Stock Nissan alignment specs
or
B) Alternate alignment specs (Eibach or other)
I guess I don't understand, my guy did the alignment so everything runs straight and true. He didn't 'dial it in' to a specific number, just adjusted it till it was acceptable. I have the print out he gave me, if I remember I'll take a pic.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 46
From: MD
I haven't gotten an alignment yet since I want to let the springs settle for a week or so. But I was curious where you got the Pro-Kit data sheet. I didn't have one in my box and I couldn't find anything on the Eibach website either.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
Here is the link for the data sheet for the Pro-Kit
http://www.motorsportsdirect.com/pdf/EB6392-140.pdf
http://www.motorsportsdirect.com/pdf/EB6392-140.pdf
Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 47
From: Frisco, CA
hey im a mechanic!!
im a mechanic and i do alignment.....had training from hunters alignment in LA in 2007 and goin to school rite now to become a mechanic....im not an expert but if u want heres my knowledge of wat to do....you should stick to thos specs eibach....u probably might have to buy a camber kit for the rears cuzz da stock ones have reached der limits of adjustments....da camber kits will prbably give u +- 3 degrees both sides....and oe specs are toatlly different cuzz that is the specs for that ride height and the height is now different....so yo camber, toe, and a lil of caster is moved around.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 64
From: Southern CA
To get the longest tire life, one should always use the factory alignment specs which can be found in the Factory Service Manual (FSM). The specs will have a high, nominal and low setting. Technically, you just have to be within the high and low. The Maxima’s factory alignment specs are a little more complicated because it varies by wheel diameter AND where you live (i.e. US, CANADA or MEXICO). I was surprised by this as well … but yes I actually saw this in the FSM.
I won’t go into what the definition of caster, camber and toe-in are but each setting in or out of specification have its pros and cons. Being OUT of spec is not always bad. For example, additional camber is usually added to help cars corner better BUT at the cost of added tire wear. Again, for maximum tire life, it is best to stay within factory spec and ideally at nominal settings.
Now to make things complicated, once the car is lowered its factory suspension geometry is altered and sometimes, it may not be possible to get back into factory specification. Keep in mind that on the stock Maxima, only the toe-in is adjustable on the front. The camber and toe are BOTH adjustable on the rear (ref FSM sections FSU and RSU).
In such instances, camber arms in the rear and new Upper Control Arms (UCAs) in the front may be available to provide the additional range of adjustment needed to get alignment back into spec. Several companies make alignment kits. IMO, SPC makes great kits and is what I use on the front and rear of my car. The UCAs (at least on my car) also make caster and camber adjustable. FWIW, SPC also supplies Eibach with some of their alignment kits.
BTW, I spent a lot of time at Eibach learning all this stuff:
http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-brak...ng-eibach.html
I won’t go into what the definition of caster, camber and toe-in are but each setting in or out of specification have its pros and cons. Being OUT of spec is not always bad. For example, additional camber is usually added to help cars corner better BUT at the cost of added tire wear. Again, for maximum tire life, it is best to stay within factory spec and ideally at nominal settings.
Now to make things complicated, once the car is lowered its factory suspension geometry is altered and sometimes, it may not be possible to get back into factory specification. Keep in mind that on the stock Maxima, only the toe-in is adjustable on the front. The camber and toe are BOTH adjustable on the rear (ref FSM sections FSU and RSU).
In such instances, camber arms in the rear and new Upper Control Arms (UCAs) in the front may be available to provide the additional range of adjustment needed to get alignment back into spec. Several companies make alignment kits. IMO, SPC makes great kits and is what I use on the front and rear of my car. The UCAs (at least on my car) also make caster and camber adjustable. FWIW, SPC also supplies Eibach with some of their alignment kits.
BTW, I spent a lot of time at Eibach learning all this stuff
:http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-brak...ng-eibach.html
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
To get the longest tire life, one should always use the factory alignment specs which can be found in the Factory Service Manual (FSM). The specs will have a high, nominal and low setting. Technically, you just have to be within the high and low. The Maxima’s factory alignment specs are a little more complicated because it varies by wheel diameter AND where you live (i.e. US, CANADA or MEXICO). I was surprised by this as well … but yes I actually saw this in the FSM.
I won’t go into what the definition of caster, camber and toe-in are but each setting in or out of specification have its pros and cons. Being OUT of spec is not always bad. For example, additional camber is usually added to help cars corner better BUT at the cost of added tire wear. Again, for maximum tire life, it is best to stay within factory spec and ideally at nominal settings.
Now to make things complicated, once the car is lowered its factory suspension geometry is altered and sometimes, it may not be possible to get back into factory specification. Keep in mind that on the stock Maxima, only the toe-in is adjustable on the front. The camber and toe are BOTH adjustable on the rear (ref FSM sections FSU and RSU).
In such instances, camber arms in the rear and new Upper Control Arms (UCAs) in the front may be available to provide the additional range of adjustment needed to get alignment back into spec. Several companies make alignment kits. IMO, SPC makes great kits and is what I use on the front and rear of my car. The UCAs (at least on my car) also make caster and camber adjustable. FWIW, SPC also supplies Eibach with some of their alignment kits.
BTW, I spent a lot of time at Eibach learning all this stuff:
http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-brak...ng-eibach.html
I won’t go into what the definition of caster, camber and toe-in are but each setting in or out of specification have its pros and cons. Being OUT of spec is not always bad. For example, additional camber is usually added to help cars corner better BUT at the cost of added tire wear. Again, for maximum tire life, it is best to stay within factory spec and ideally at nominal settings.
Now to make things complicated, once the car is lowered its factory suspension geometry is altered and sometimes, it may not be possible to get back into factory specification. Keep in mind that on the stock Maxima, only the toe-in is adjustable on the front. The camber and toe are BOTH adjustable on the rear (ref FSM sections FSU and RSU).
In such instances, camber arms in the rear and new Upper Control Arms (UCAs) in the front may be available to provide the additional range of adjustment needed to get alignment back into spec. Several companies make alignment kits. IMO, SPC makes great kits and is what I use on the front and rear of my car. The UCAs (at least on my car) also make caster and camber adjustable. FWIW, SPC also supplies Eibach with some of their alignment kits.
BTW, I spent a lot of time at Eibach learning all this stuff
:http://g35driver.com/forums/v36-brak...ng-eibach.html
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
So here are the normal and obtained spec from the alignment with the Eibach springs:
Front:
Camber: 0.5 to -1.1 (mine is now -1.1 on each side, which is just on edge of WNL)
Caster: 4.2 to 5.7 ( mine is WNL at 4.4 on L and 4.7 on R)
Toe: 0.06 to -0.02 (mine is WNL at 0.04)
Rear
Camber: 0.1 to -0.9 ( This is were settings are off, mine is -1.3 on each side)
Caster: 0.09 to 0.21 ( Mine is WNL at 0.16)
Toe: 0.18 to 0.42 ( Mine is WNL at 0.32)
These specs are very different from the Eibach spec on the sheet at the top of the thread. I am not even sure a camber kit would get the alignment within those specs. I have tried to call Eibach to resolve this issue. They have not gotten back to me yet. I will keep you all informed as to the outcome!
Front:
Camber: 0.5 to -1.1 (mine is now -1.1 on each side, which is just on edge of WNL)
Caster: 4.2 to 5.7 ( mine is WNL at 4.4 on L and 4.7 on R)
Toe: 0.06 to -0.02 (mine is WNL at 0.04)
Rear
Camber: 0.1 to -0.9 ( This is were settings are off, mine is -1.3 on each side)
Caster: 0.09 to 0.21 ( Mine is WNL at 0.16)
Toe: 0.18 to 0.42 ( Mine is WNL at 0.32)
These specs are very different from the Eibach spec on the sheet at the top of the thread. I am not even sure a camber kit would get the alignment within those specs. I have tried to call Eibach to resolve this issue. They have not gotten back to me yet. I will keep you all informed as to the outcome!
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 64
From: Southern CA
I read your thread concerning your extensive time with Eibach. Thanks for all the useful information. So did you stick with the stock alignment specs on your G35 after the lowering? It looks like you added a camber kit on your G35, how has the tire wear been in the last 2 years? I have looked on-line and found this camber kits (link below) for the front of the 09 maxima. Would this work? I do not see anything for the rear. I guess we will have to wait for it to come out.
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
I added the rear camber arms first, then waited for front arms to be available. By the time the front arms came out, there was noticeable wear on inner tread of my front tires. Tire wear is wearing evenly now after front camber kit install.
Also ... I am using the alignment specs from the FSM. The ideal alignment specs are vehicle specific, not spring specific. Use the nominal specs in the factory service manual for best tire wear. Tweek it from there to suit your needs.
Contact SPC Performance for front / rear kits:
http://www.spcperformance.com/
If none are available, contact them via phone. If the demand is high enough, they will probably be the first to produce them.
Last edited by terrycs; Nov 2, 2009 at 11:28 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
Well it has been 4 months since I had my Eibach springs installed with an alignment. Everything seemed to be running true until I had my tires rotated a couple of weeks ago. Now my car pulls to the right (And no I have not hit any pot-holes that I am aware of). I am concerned the inital alignment might have caused some un-even tire wear. Has anyone else with the Eibach springs had any issues with tire wear or alingment? Give us some updates!
I plan on putting new rims and tires in the spring and I want to get this alignment issue resolved before then.
I plan on putting new rims and tires in the spring and I want to get this alignment issue resolved before then.
Well it has been 4 months since I had my Eibach springs installed with an alignment. Everything seemed to be running true until I had my tires rotated a couple of weeks ago. Now my car pulls to the right (And no I have not hit any pot-holes that I am aware of). I am concerned the inital alignment might have caused some un-even tire wear. Has anyone else with the Eibach springs had any issues with tire wear or alingment? Give us some updates!
I plan on putting new rims and tires in the spring and I want to get this alignment issue resolved before then.
I plan on putting new rims and tires in the spring and I want to get this alignment issue resolved before then.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...r=SV&brand=all
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
Have you thought about using the Eibach alignment kit?
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...r=SV&brand=all
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...r=SV&brand=all
I take it you only use these on the front?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
Well, I have had my Eibach pro-kit on for about 8 months or 10,000 miles. It is such a step up from the stock set-up. I had my car alignment today, and it looks like I am still having a problem with my rear camber (the front is WNL for OEM specs). Both sides are at-1.4 (goal is less the -0.9) or have a negative camber meaning the tire is at an outward angle from top to bottom. The tech that completed the alignment said that he tightened the lower connector bar to the max and it still has a negative camber. So my question, Does anyone know of a company that makes a rear camber arm kit for our maxima? Eibach has a front camber bolts on tirerack, but that will not work on the rear. I definitely had some inside tire wear on the rear tires. I am going to have to rotate my tires ever 1500-2000 miles to try to minimize the rear tire wear from the camber being out of whack until I can find something to help the problem. Any suggestions?
Last edited by bmanbmv; May 27, 2010 at 01:53 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 7
+1
Im not sure if your rear camber or toe is out, but sometimes it can be tricky on a stock vehicle to get it in specs. You need to do to someone who knows what they are doing. Sometimes you have to adjust both the camber and toe at the same time in the rear to get them in. Someone who knows what they are doing can do it.
ALWAYS USE NISSAN SPECS! They made the car, adjust to what they say.
Im not sure if your rear camber or toe is out, but sometimes it can be tricky on a stock vehicle to get it in specs. You need to do to someone who knows what they are doing. Sometimes you have to adjust both the camber and toe at the same time in the rear to get them in. Someone who knows what they are doing can do it.
ALWAYS USE NISSAN SPECS! They made the car, adjust to what they say.
Well, I have had my Eibach pro-kit on for about 8 months or 10,000 miles. It is such a step up from the stock set-up. I had my car alignment today, and it looks like I am still having a problem with my rear camber (the front is WNL for OEM specs). Both sides are at-1.4 (goal is less the -0.9) or have a negative camber meaning the tire is at an outward angle from top to bottom. The tech that completed the alignment said that he tightened the lower connector bar to the max and it still has a negative camber. So my question, Does anyone know of a company that makes a rear camber arm kit for our maxima? Eibach has a front camber bolts on tirerack, but that will not work on the rear. I definitely had some inside tire wear on the rear tires. I am going to have to rotate my tires ever 1500-2000 miles to try to minimize the rear tire wear from the camber being out of whack until I can find something to help the problem. Any suggestions?
http://www.spcperformance.com/
They have produced rear camber kits in the past for various Nissans' and they are very very good.
Last edited by MaxLoverAz; May 28, 2010 at 07:20 AM. Reason: spelling
Well, I have had my Eibach pro-kit on for about 8 months or 10,000 miles. It is such a step up from the stock set-up. I had my car alignment today, and it looks like I am still having a problem with my rear camber (the front is WNL for OEM specs). Both sides are at-1.4 (goal is less the -0.9) or have a negative camber meaning the tire is at an outward angle from top to bottom. The tech that completed the alignment said that he tightened the lower connector bar to the max and it still has a negative camber. So my question, Does anyone know of a company that makes a rear camber arm kit for our maxima? Eibach has a front camber bolts on tirerack, but that will not work on the rear. I definitely had some inside tire wear on the rear tires. I am going to have to rotate my tires ever 1500-2000 miles to try to minimize the rear tire wear from the camber being out of whack until I can find something to help the problem. Any suggestions?
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 106
From: NJ
I would highly recommend getting an alignment, but take it to the dealer. My nissan dealer did a great job and did not have problems aligning my car, and the price was reasonable (99.95). Only catch is it takes them a little longer to do the work with the lowered springs since its harder to calibrate on their fancy pancy machines.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,055
I haven't done an alignment yet since I got my springs put on but I can tell just by the steering wheel being out of position (not straight) that my car needs an alignment. I was waiting for a thread like this to come around because i knew that there would be some issues with the proper adjustments for some folks.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll be taking mine to Nissan in 2 weeks to get it done and see what they come up with, if it is out of alignment then I will buy ensure I get all the things I need to get it right or as close to factory specs as possible and get my tires rotated.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll be taking mine to Nissan in 2 weeks to get it done and see what they come up with, if it is out of alignment then I will buy ensure I get all the things I need to get it right or as close to factory specs as possible and get my tires rotated.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
Well it has been 2 days since I had my last alignment. My tire guy got all the front specs WNL and the rear camber is negative as I stated earlier. I finally got on the highway yesterday and noticed that my car is now pulling to the right a bit. I did not notice this at speeds of less then 50mph. I am not sure if the rear camber is effecting the right pull. Any suggestions? I guess I might have to take to the dealer if my local tire guy can't figure it out as MrTeek recommended. I love these springs, but this alignment issues is are really big pain in my ***! I really don't want to spend $1000 on tires every year or two because of tire wear. Thanks for your input guys!
Well it has been 2 days since I had my last alignment. My tire guy got all the front specs WNL and the rear camber is negative as I stated earlier. I finally got on the highway yesterday and noticed that my car is now pulling to the right a bit. I did not notice this at speeds of less then 50mph. I am not sure if the rear camber is effecting the right pull. Any suggestions? I guess I might have to take to the dealer if my local tire guy can't figure it out as MrTeek recommended. I love these springs, but this alignment issues is are really big pain in my ***! I really don't want to spend $1000 on tires every year or two because of tire wear. Thanks for your input guys!
I know I am bringing a older thread back to life but I installed my Eibachs last weekend and I got an alignment the other day. The tech was able to get the fronts in spec but the rear has a little camber to it. I was curious because seems like you guys have had your springs on for awhile now, is there any affect on your tires from then to now even if the tires were out of spec?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 744
From: Northern, VA
On my 2010 SV with Eibachs and RL Endlinks, I had them run the most about of negative camber front and rear while still being within spec. Note that there really isn't much camber adjustment for the front axle.
Camber on front after alignment: -1.2*
Camber on rear after alignment: -1.4
The camber on the rear was actually -2.2* before I took it in... handled great, but not so great for even tire wear
Camber on front after alignment: -1.2*
Camber on rear after alignment: -1.4
The camber on the rear was actually -2.2* before I took it in... handled great, but not so great for even tire wear
Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 141
From: Douglasville, Ga.
When I had my alignment done, we were able to get the car just inside of "green" based on factory specs. I bought the so-called camber kit from Eibach and it is actually for the front. It was listed as "rear" but not so. It is actually pretty cheap anyway and wasn't needed so I returned it. The only way to really adjust the rear is with G35/350Z upper and lower links which have actual threaded collars. The before-mentioned company (SPC) makes some great rear camber kits for the G/Z cars but are a little pricey. Until Koni or somebody makes a serious replacement shock/strut, I won't be spending any more money on the suspension. After then I'll look into these camber kits for some fine tuning adjustment. Just my $.02 
On my 2010 SV with Eibachs and RL Endlinks, I had them run the most about of negative camber front and rear while still being within spec. Note that there really isn't much camber adjustment for the front axle.
Camber on front after alignment: -1.2*
Camber on rear after alignment: -1.4
The camber on the rear was actually -2.2* before I took it in... handled great, but not so great for even tire wear
Camber on front after alignment: -1.2*
Camber on rear after alignment: -1.4
The camber on the rear was actually -2.2* before I took it in... handled great, but not so great for even tire wear
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 64
From: VA
So I roll up to my dealership to get my alignment done and the service manager says well i need to see your car. We walk out and he is like wow nice car yadda yadda but then says we cant do your alignment because we don't have the correct tool to align cars with aftermarket wheels and I don't wanna scratch the finish on your wheels. He then tells me to go to a place I've never heard of and says they specialize in alignments on cars with 20" or bigger wheels and that are dropped says they are the best in the business. So I leave and roll to goodyear and they say the same thing and mention the exact same place and says they are the best as well. Anyway I called them up and made an appointment so tomorrow at 3 it will get done. I'll post the before and after numbers tomorrow.
Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 200
From: Miami, FL
i got it done.. and the guy had no problem doing it.. i got it done at tire kingdom. i will post the pics up in a bit. also is anyone experiencing like a knocking noise everytime they turn? i have the springs and the racingline endlinks.. its annoying..
I wonder maybe is it because I got mine done right after I got it lowered, I might see if I can get another one after my car has settled now, and how long ago did you install your springs? if you just installed them, I had the same popping noise and it eventually went away, nothing to worry about...
Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 200
From: Miami, FL
I wonder maybe is it because I got mine done right after I got it lowered, I might see if I can get another one after my car has settled now, and how long ago did you install your springs? if you just installed them, I had the same popping noise and it eventually went away, nothing to worry about...
let me get the pictures sent to my email and i post them up.
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 200
From: Miami, FL
