gonna be replacing my shock next week and have a few question.

first is what is the name of the tool to compress the spring to get them on the shocks? and where can i buy/rent/borrow one?

second what else should i be changing along with the shocks?

im going from stock to blues. also for those who have done this how hard of a job is it? i would think no more than 2 hours. but i want to make sure i change everything that is needed so i dont have to go back in there agian. any advise or tips would be great.

 

The tool is called Spring Compressor. Some auto parts stores let you borrow it as long as you leave a deposit which is then refunded back to you when the tool is returned.
You should change the dust boots along with bump stops and strut mount assemblies.
If you haven't done that job before, it will take you more than two hours.

 

More like two hours per strut. If you think your just going to jack it up and undo the nuts that fasten the struts to the knuckles.... it'll take some work, especially if you drive in winter conditions.

 

I rented a spring compressor at advance autoparts for like $50. I think the job took 4hrs total that's including breaks using hand tools. Air tools would make the job go much quicker. The longest period was spent just compressing the springs.

 

thanks i check out advance and autozone, 2 hours per strut

i got air tools, so just basically the strut mounts and dustboot is all i need to replace with the shock.

 

One trick about the sway bar, which you need to disconnect from the lca. when you disconnect and connect it, both wheels need to be at the same level, either both on the ground or both off the ground. Otherwise you're gonna be fighting spring tension.

 

thanks, i saw that in the service manual 2.

 

I didn't have to disconnect my sway bar from the lca when I did my struts and shocks. I wonder why would you need to do that, other than when you are changing end links (unless I'm missing something).

 

I didn't have to either. If you un bolt the bottom first as you should you have no problems from the sway bar.

 

I don't think you have to, but my end-links did have some tension on them due to the weight of the control arm & spindle (after removing the strut).

In other words, if everything was connected and I then removed the strut, once I disconnected one of the end-links (I prefer the end attached to the sway bar since that nut is easier to get to), the control arm dropped and was free to swing. Makes installation of the strut a lot easier. Necessary, no, but assuming your end-links aren't rusted/seized, it helps a little to temporarily disconnect them.

 

I did this for the first time on my 3G Acura TL and it took forever.

After some practice you'll tackle each strut in no time.

 

First time I replaced mine it took me like six hours & had to fit a small pipe on ratchet for leverage for lower nuts/bolts on back shocks cause they were hard to undo, not to mention the top part was a hassle too cause they're enclosed. You can borrow the spring compressors from Autozone with a deposit of $50 bucks which you get back when you return em.
I just bought new illuminas, tein s & boot covers, I'm debating whether to use old bump stops with strut mount assemblies or just replace them with new one. I also bought the whole control arm assembly cause for some reason if you want to replace bushings that's the way to go and rotors. I'm planning on buying either a cordless or cord impact wrench just to speed and make things easier since they go for about $100.

 

get PB blaster. Soak it before you start.

I also used a torch to heat the nut.

Get a breaker bar. Autozone for the spring compressor

 

^^ I forgot about sugesting to get a breaker bar; you can loan both the spring compressor and the breaker bar at Autozone for a deposit on each.

 

the nuts are gonna be that much of a problem you think?

 

Not necessarily, but it's better than the risk of ruining your rachet.

 

This is a good step-by-step and he notes all the things to take note of:

http://www.shiftice.com/strut_install.html

To be completely honest, out of the many suspension jobs I've done on this car (many alone), I've only had the lower strut mount bolts cause a problem once. The Dewalt corded impact wouldn't get it off, but I got it off by using a floor jack handle over a ratchet as a breaker bar.

The only other tricky bit is getting the two rear strut top mount bolts off, but that's easy with the right tools and someone who can get into the trunk.

This picture should show you what I'm talking about - get the proper extension with a deep socket and you'll be all set:

 

^^ Agree on the rear shock/strut top mount bolts. I used a combination of extension bars along with a universal joint. Be very careful not to drop any of the nuts in there once they come off.

 

Oh yeah, definitely don't drop the nut down in there, my car probably has one stuck down there somewhere in each side, good thing I had spares.

Also, these are useful for this job too:

 

i have done it so many time i lost count when i did it with air tools took me about an 1 1/2, with out air tools took me about 3 to4 hrs either way its not to hard at all to do.

 

Just a quick question? How does one torque the top hat bolt on the rear strut to 20 ft lbs? Do you torque the nut before you put the strut in the car? I cant use a torque wrench on it without holding the strut with a pair of vice grips and using a 14 mm to tighten the top hat bolt.

 

Front struts, no problem with any of those nuts, even with my cheap AZ breaker bar.

Rear shocks, definitely use some PB & a decent breaker bar. Some pipe to put over the breaker bar for more torque is also a good idea. Took me a while 'til I heard that wonderful crack & shriek sound.

 

changed struts, but now occasionally i will get a clicking noise from pass rear shock area. i checked today and it seems that the plastic coating for the springs is peeling and pushing out from the spring.

could this be causing the noise and do i need a new spring? can this cause the spring to come loose form the shock?

 

If your dust boot are loose at the point where the piston rod goes into the shock "housing", they might be making a clicking noise as they rub against that area. (I tried to zip tie mine without any success). Have someone push up and down and try to pinpoint the source of the noise.

 

Looking for some cheap shocks...im on A low budget anybody here have these? Are they good?

Replacement Shock Absorber and Strut Assembly - Rear Suspension, Driver Or Passenger Side
2000 Nissan Maxima


zoom


Availability: In Stock

• Features
• Description

Features

Brand:ReplacementDamping Adjustable:NoType:Shock absorberLocation:Rear Suspension, Driver Or Passenger SideQuantity Sold:Sold individuallyDesign:Twin tubeProduct Fit:OE replacementWarranty:1-year, unlimited-mileage warranty

Description

SHOCK ABSORBER, GAS-CHARGED, BLACK, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- Twin-tube design; Built to match OE performance; Provides maximum safety and stability, restores vehicle's steering precision and handling characteristics, and greatly improves passenger comfort in all road conditions.



Product Fit
Fit Note

• Except Electronically-Adjustable Suspension

Fits 2000 Nissan Maxima

• 2000-2001: All Submodels; All Engines;

Their $26 dollars each

 

Sorry, but at $26 each, I cannot imagine them being reliable for any given period of time.

 

I agree with TallTom... for $26 I can't imagine how good they are.

I just replaced my struts all around with KYB GR2s. I got rears for $70 locally after coupon codes at Advance Auto Parts. The site you list above has GR2s for $63 each.

I'm no expert mechanic, so replacing the fronts took me five hours (and three weeks of lower back pain) and the rears about three hours between me and a friend; it's not a job I want to repeat again soon.

So, I guess the question is... do you want to pay $126 for known quality parts or $52 for unknown quality?

 

Newbie here. I've done other repairs on my '03 Maxima SE before and going to tackle the struts replacement for the first time. Here's hoping I don't regret it. Does anybody know the difference between the KYB GR-2/Exel G's and the KYB GR-2's they both say they are OE replacements but is one better than the other? Thanks

 

The KYB Excel G / GR2 are the same struts.

From the KYB website (http://www.kyb.com/technical/faq/faq06.php)

"Q: What is the difference between the KYB GR-2 and the Excel-G products?


A: We apologize that this is a bit confusing. Both products are identical except for the product name and paint color. KYB sells products throughout the world. Some part numbers fit vehicles from various countries that share the same chassis platform but have different nameplates. At one time there were several KYB brand names, but we are now moving toward one name and color. So in the future all new part numbers will be called Excel-G and have black paint."

 

My brother just bought those exact struts for his '01, from PartsTrain. We Installed them with no problems, and they have been holding up just fine so far over the terrible NYC roads. Word of advice, do NOT buy the "mevotech" strut mounts from partstrain. Just spend the extra money and buy the KYB mounts. the MevoTech front mounts blew out after about 1 week of driving. Complete waste of money! Struts were still fine. Took everything apart, replaced the mounts with KYB mounts, and it has been driving like a brand new car

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Going with KYB struts, mounts and boots keep them all the same so I don't run into any surprises. Plus I don't need to make it any more difficult than it has to be. I'm hoping that with the air tools it wont be too bad. Great site though i'll just take it slow and keep my fingers crossed. I only have 65,000 on the Maxima but I can feel every bump in the road.

 

It's pretty straight forward. The first one will take you almost as long as the other 3. Put the strut in a vice and use the air ratchet to tighten down the spring compressor. Be sure to alternate sides and not tighten one side too much @ a time. The air ratchet will save you a boat load of time. The first one was a little intimidating for me, but once I got a system going, it went reasonably quick.

 

Thanks Crime and all for the info... I might try em out

 

Thanks everybody for the tips, I'm gonna replace the rear ones on mine, hope it's gonna go well !!