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Immobilizer/ECU problems

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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #1  
Gillikanoosis's Avatar
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From: Limbo, NE
Immobilizer/ECU problems

I'll try and make this concise.

I have an '01 Auto.

I was having stalling/idle issues and I pull a P0505 code.
I clean the TB and replace the IACV, but still same idle issues but it was running.
Maybe fried ECU. Stupidly, I pull the ECU to check for inconsistencies.
Nothing unusual to report, so I plug it back in and won't start.
I research the immobilizer issue.
To add to the mix, I have an aftermarket Viper remote start/alarm.

My questions are these:
1. If the IACV fries the ECU, how can you tell?
2. My aftermarket remote start required a key transponder to be install in-car.
Will this affect my immobilizer/ECU reprogram?
3. If it is the ECU (I have a used one cheap in the pipeline), should I wait
until I get the new(used) ECU before I take it to the stealership (car will
be down until then) for a reprogram?

What a *****!
Thanks in advance
Old Jan 24, 2010 | 12:28 PM
  #2  
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You could try this:
2 ESCAPE FROM LOCK MODE
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.

Old Jan 24, 2010 | 12:33 PM
  #3  
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My OEM security red light stays on with the key in "On" position,
so I tried the Lock Mode escape but no luck. Maybe I'm doing it wrong!
I've tried it multiple times but same result. I'll try it again.
I read that when turning back to the "Off" position wait 10 seconds,
is this correct?

Does just unplugging the ECU require a stealership visit, even if it's the
same original ECU?
Old Jan 24, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #4  
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Is the procedure with Consult II at the dealership to reprogram ECU
the same with a different (used) not original ECU?
Old Jan 24, 2010 | 02:47 PM
  #5  
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How can you test an ECU?
Old Jan 24, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #6  
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youre using the original ecu again right?
Old Jan 24, 2010 | 09:33 PM
  #7  
Gillikanoosis's Avatar
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I visually inspected original ECU and it looks good but...
That's one of my questions, if the original is fried...
1. how can i tell? &
2. If it is, is a stealership reset smooth?
Old Jan 25, 2010 | 12:02 AM
  #8  
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http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2001/

Go here, check out the EL section starts on page 334 for the NATS stuff.
Old Jan 25, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #9  
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From: Limbo, NE
Originally Posted by Siliconmatrix
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2001/

Go here, check out the EL section starts on page 334 for the NATS stuff.
Nice, appreciate. That's called anti-stealership screwing you manual.
Old Apr 22, 2010 | 02:56 PM
  #10  
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I am also have an ECU problem .
To make it short: P0505, 2000 maxima gle.
replaced ICV
found an ECU with the identical Serial number.

old ECU is physically fried. but still starts with P0505 and staggered idle.

when i put the new ECU in , my electronics all turn on but doesnt crank.

is there a procedure to make it relearn my key?
Old Apr 22, 2010 | 06:12 PM
  #11  
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you have to go to the dealership to have them initialize the NATS
Old Apr 23, 2010 | 11:15 AM
  #12  
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i also see my security light on when i try to crank.
i called the dealer, and they said as long as the ECU are identical in serial number, it should not require reprogram/ reinitialize.

can someone clarify? or should i look for a different dealer
Old Apr 23, 2010 | 04:13 PM
  #13  
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you need to read my post again, if that doesnt make enough sense, find an FSM and read for yourself
Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:06 PM
  #14  
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i went to the dealership to get the new ECU recode. ($200)


no engine light, no engine code after recode.. car drives a bit better.. but it still has erratic idle. still not idling the way its use to.

do you think it killed my ICV again while i had the faulty ecu for a few days?
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 12:45 AM
  #15  
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well it may have been the iacv that fried your ecm
Old Apr 28, 2011 | 12:46 AM
  #16  
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the elec. motor mounts
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