I have had a 1998 Maxima for over 7 years now but have never flushed the master cylinder, no braking problems though.

Someone told me if my mechanic did do a flush, guarantee yourself to change all brake lines as in the process of flushing, with the corrosion all the metal parts will break. So he recommended, just leave as is.


Another question, I have Wagner ceramic pads on the rears, and am considering replacing the fronts with better, performance pads.

Is this recommended?

 

this might be true for an transmission flush. But for brakes, i'm not sure if there is a flush. If you are saying that changing the fluid will break the hoses, then imo, they were going to go anyways and you will need to change them. I'm not sure how exactly how opening up the bleeder and pressing the brakes like you normally do will cause your lines to break. I've never heard of it, but wait a lil longer till someone else with even more knowledge chimes in

 

If somebody told you that changing your oil after it's over 3,000 miles is bad and your engine will explode, would you believe them?

IMHO - The tranny issue is a myth.

Change your brake fluid, your brakes will appreciate it.

 

The tranny thing only pertains to "power" flush. I honestly don't know about that but I know you can drain and refill any fluid in your car without a problem.

For your brakes, you mean bleed the system?

 

Yes, I mean bleed the whole system. Sorry I didn't clarify.



If I install superior pads on the front brakes, is that advisable? Would it cause imbalance on braking?

 

You really should run the same pad on all 4 corners.
Not a huge deal, just gives you the best results.

 

I've never heard of that before and also our brake lines are designed to handle a LOT of PSI and so it would be pretty hard for someone bleeding the system to break them. But it also depends on the method.

Like there is the reverse bleed where fluid is pumped through the bleeder valve and then sucked out of the master cylinder reservoir.

Or the vacula method where a little vacuum thing is attached to the bleeder valve and it sucks out the old fluid.

Or the old school method where you open the bleeder valve and have a buddy step on the brakes and ect. But the thing is that if your master cylinder is rusted and there is junk inside if you push the pedal all the way to the floor it moves the pistons in the master cylinder into a place where it normally doesn't ever go to and so that rust and gunk in the "never traveled to section" might cut up the cups causing the brake fluid leak past the seals/cups when you are stepping on the brakes.

Or gravity bleeding! You just open the bleeder valves and let gravity do the hard work for you.

But yeah you shouldn't have to pay someone to flush your brake fluid for you, its a easy peasy job, just take your time and read the instructions carefully and NEVER step on the brakes and then release it with a bleeder valve open or it'll suck air up into the system again. And check your reservoir often while bleeding because if you run out of brake fluid and step on the brakes you will push air into it again, and that means you will have to bleed... AGAIN.

 

Those are 12 year old brake lines and most likely corroded especially with the salt thrown on the roads in winter here in Toronto.

 

I flushed the brakes on my 97 last year with no problems. I live in western PA where they use salt like it's going out of style. My lines are in great shape. If you are worried about your lines being too corroded to do a brake flush, you should be more worried about your lines leaking under normal use because of the corrosion.

 

You shoudltn have any problem at all.