Since I baught my car a few days ago its been bogging between 2500-3500rpm. Its very noticeable in 1st and 2nd. I pulled the codes yesterday and got one for a coolant temp sensor and 0304 knock sensor. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, reset the light within 10 min it was back on again. I drove the car a bit yesterday and today. Tonight I did Plugs, and a fuel filter just as maintenance. I pulled the codes again and got 0304 knock sensor again, 0201 Ignition Signal Circuit (probably because one coil wire wasnt on tight), and 0303 Front Left Heated o2 Sensor. The car also has had a very jumpy tach. Its not one bit accurate and will randomly fluctuate. Sometimes it seems accurate until 2-3k then it will just not work properly. My first thought was maybe a bad cluster but now im starting to think maybe a CPS? Any ideas? How can I test my cluster? I dont want to just start throwing parts at it. Also sometimes its hard to start and sometimes stalls almost immedately after it starts unless i give it gas immedately

 

Well idk if this will help but it may get you pointed in the right direction. I had a similar problem when a had my '86 300zx. You were safe by doing the temp sensor first so that rules out that as an issue. I know the knock sensor, when that goes bad on a Max it limits the performance but it should cause it to bog down or fluctuate at idle. My problem stemmed from a faulty TPS sensor and a faulty MAF sensor. Sometime the computer will throw a few ghost codes your way because of the simple fact the whole system gets affected by these faulty sensors. There's a post on here that shows you how to see if the MAF is faulty or not but hooking it up to a voltage meter. I don't know exactly what voltage it is supposed to read, but if you test it and the voltage is off then your MAF is bad and the bogging should go away provided that's the only problem. If replacing the MAF does solve the problem then the other codes should go away. This was the case for my Z. I hope this helps, GL.

 

And as far as the tach I'm not sure what to tell you, sorry. I'm sure someone else will come along and help you out.

 

How long has it been since you clean TB ect. i would get any of those out of the way as it could be adding symptoms that are not related(did to me). as far as the tach when you see it acting up engage the cruise control if it will not stay on it's your CPS

 

just to make sure..your codes are p0304 and p0303??....those are not supposed to be misfire codes??...as i remember p0300 and up are codes for misfire on individual cylinder!!.....

 

Have you cleaned your MAF with electronics cleaner? Might also want to clean your TB.
It sounds like your knock sensor to me. The Tach is the least of your worries right now, dont worry about that until the car runs correctly, that could be another faulty sensor. How many miles on car?

Often when one code goes off, it trips another, which can be misleading. IE: your coolant temp sensor going off because of knock sensor, etc. Get the codes pulled for free by Advance Auto or Autozone so you know exactly what the codes are and what to fix.

 

I just baught the car so i have no clue. I planned on pulling everything apart and repainting stuff so i was gonna do it at that time. My guess is its pretty dirty. Also i the cruise always engages so I baught a cluster and that fixed the tach issue.

 

I pulled the codes by watching the cel flash and then used the decoder. Thats what it said the codes were.

 

Im going to try cleaning the maf today. The tach was a bad cluster which is now fixed. The car has 267k I think the intake manifold and TB is due for a cleaning. I just gotta pull everything apart. I figure I might as well paint everything while its apart. Ive just been too busy putting a swede headliner in my friends max lol.

 

ok but in any make of car p0300 means random misfire...and the other one, like p0301 and up indicates misfire on each cylinder..maybe reconsider it and check out for misfire...or...check out ur code with a real diagnostic tool.....

 

well are the codes similar from US car to canadian cars??

 

I had an 01 Maxima SE with similar issues. I found out the Mass Air Flow was defective from the factory by the way of Google, the new MAF's will have a Green Dot on the side. I would check that... The dealer will want to install it and reprogram the ECU to match it.

GOOD LUCK!

 

Ok so I replaced the Knock sensor. cleaned the intake manifold, throttle body, egr valve. The car was running great. Still had a hiccup every once and awhile but i think thats because i put cheap NGK plugs in not the good laser platinums. The CEL is back on this time 0303 (Front Heated 02 Sensor) and 0302 (EGR high/low Flow). The car still seems to be slightly down on power but not nearly as bad as before. My next step is to replace the O2. Not sure about the egr. I used brake clean to clean out the tube, i hope i didnt harm anything.

 

NGK with the right temp should be fine your only shortening the life/change interval by going with cheaper.(assuming the 1st two pts!)

 

its your knock sensor change it, with it bad it will loose low end power cause the timing is not being set right. mine has been out for ever but mine clears up after it warms up but in mornings it boggs around those rpm range.

 

hey what rims are those on your max? looks sexy man. i got a pic on my background with same rims but never found out which rims they came from.

 

sorry i just read you changed knock sensor. try complete fuel system cleaner maybe dirty injectors.

 

Thats my next step. I have access to a professional injector cleaner im hopeing that helps. The car feels great after 4k it almost feels like it has secondaries like my SHO did. The knock sensor definitely helped. It will be getting new plugs and fuel injector cleaner as well as the injector service. Ill let you know how it turns out.

 

I believe there 350z rims off of a newer model.

 

thats what i was thinking, they look slick.