ok...so most people have probably read my eariler post about my car feeling slower and getting pulled by my buddies 5th gen..when I usually pull him...etc...etc.

Anyway...I did a compression test today..and here are my results.
I don't know how the cylinders are numbered so I'll just name them by position as you look at the engine from the front of the car.

Rear left: 210 psi
Rear middle: 203 psi
Rear right: 205 psi
Front left: 205 psi
Front middle: 205psi
Front right: 210psi

These are a little higher than Steve told me I should get...he said it should be in the range of 145-180...these are WAY over that. they are all also very close to each other. I don't think anything is wrong with my engine internally, and it's not burning oil...so what the heck else could be wrong?????

 

Those #'s are higher then factory spec so my guess is your gauge is reading to high. I did a compression test on my 95 max and 98 I30 and I got 169-172 PSI for all of them. BTW I am not saying your car has low compression or anything, it looks like it's fine, just your gauge may be off a bit. I would check the brakes since the problem started after you started hearing the noise. One of your calipers may be stuck, check for exesive heat on one. If your car stops smooth your rotors are most likely fine.

 

how many times did you crank to get those numbers....after 4 cranks...my car was at about 175-180psi...but then it kept climbing with successive cranks (8 to be exact) to between 200 and 210 for every cylinder....

 

I crank until the reading stops going up, usually 15 cranks. I get the same levels, 200's. I think as long as you do it the same way every time its ok. What you are looking for is a major difference from high to low. Or very low readings in general. Some who only take out one plug at a time get low radings, I take all the plugs ot and do it when the car is warmed up. The Max has a very tight motor, 200's seems to be nomal for a well maintained motor.

 

I removed all my spark plugs on a "cool" motor and let the car crank 5 times. The instructions said to do it 5 times so..

 

The Nissan FSM says.

Step 1) Warm up engine.

Step 9) Crank engine and record highest gauge indication.

Page EM12 of the 4th & 5th gen ESM

 

Hmm, haha. I read the instructions that came with my gauge and I did my compression test{s} while I was tuning up my car{s} so I did not keep the engine warm. Thanks for the info

 

When I got my 98' motor broken in at ~1000 miles I did a base compression test to know what it looked like really fresh. This way I would be able to see how it was wearing later on down the road. Perhaps this would be a good idea on your new 2k2.

 

I would think about doing that but I the longest I will probably keep the car is 4 years/ 60K miles and I will have a warranty that whole time. BTW what was your compression on your car brand new?

 

220's at 1000miles
Still in 210's after 25k and some nitrous abuse.
Mobile one really works!

 

one thing that can cause over spec readings is having carbon deposits... it will cause an increase in commpression but will cause a loss of power and fuel efficieny. I have both read this on a few other forums and also discussed it with a couple of mechanics...

as usual this is IMHO.

 

i also got semi-higher than factory numbers on my old car with 90k and nitrous abuse. 190ish on every cyclinder.

 

I doubt my car has bad carbon deposits becuase that would mean the plugs would have it too...and they don't...they just look like normal plugs. I just think the VQ is a very tight engine...and I'm very impressed with the numbers that I got from my test.

 

so fix your brakes

 

as soon as I save up some cash....I'll be getting some porterfields...and I'll make sure I grease my caliper pins CORRECTLY this time.

 

good, get those porterfields.